gilbertdave

Cheers guys... Assumed this would come down to discipline... Never a good point for me as I generally try not to wake up until half way round the first lap.. Must try harder.

So, I bought some GRO Oil in the Summer and have finally run out of what I was using before... As best I can see GRO is colourless and odourless... So, once I've mixed it into one of my two identical jerry cans, its impossible for me to determine which one is pre-mixed and which is just petrol... Previously (with Putolene), I could just pour a little into a mixing pot and see the blue colour from the oil. Anyone else have this problem? Aside from the obvious of being disciplined and marking the jerry cans etc, I wondered if there were anything I could do to the oil (something simple like food colouring) that will make it detectable without destroying my bike? It seems a shame to just not use it and I'm sure I can't be the only one with the problem? Ta.

I had the same thing last year.... I actually had two problems, so I'm not certain which one fixed the problem. I was leaking fluid from the overflow pipe, but it wasn't clear if this was spitting because the bike was getting hot. I notice the fan was intermitent. It would start up, but cut out from time to time... I also notice it would speed up and slow down based on engine speed (revs)... I replaced the rectifier and this seemed to go away. I also noticed a hairline crack in my radiator which could have prevented the radiator holding pressure... hence boiling over and spuffing out of the over flow. So I also replaced the rad. I woudl recommend testing the fan with a 12v supply as others have mentioned, then definitely try the rectifier before you start spending mega bucks! Good luck

Hi all, I'm in the market for an upgrade to my 2000 TXT 250 and have been looking at 2010 (maybe 2011) Gas Gas's as well as Evo's and Sherco's... As I'm a bit of a porker (16St) interested to know whethere after market heavy springs are available for the Gas Gas. I was sold a heavier rear spring from an Evo on the understanding that it would be ok on my current bike. Whilst it does fit, its not perfect. It is really tight with the airbox etc. So, is there somewhere I can buy these bits, before I commit to sticking with Gas Gas. p.s No, I do not want to join the gym instead... ha ha Thanks in advance. Dave

Hi mate, I do a fair bit of time at Poles Wood as well. It's been a few weeks as there's been a few local trials on, but it's a bit quiet again now through to Feb, so I suspect I'll see you over there. Sundays seems to be the busier day if you like riding with lots of people.. I'll be the one wobbling about on an old 250 Gas Gas (Blue) . come and say hello Dave

This is where most of the owners manuals can be found http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html But, looking on 2001, it doesn't mention a 50? Scan through the site, its your best chance of finding something. Hope this helps Dave

Just a thought, but are there any garages to rent in your area? I live outside London, but I have hired two different garages in my area, generally in blocks behind flats. I've paid about

A little update... The bike is now rebuild and sounding much better. There was / is some minor complication which is causing teh bike to over run slightly when revved. a "man in the know" had a fiddle with the carb and it got a lot better. I'm planning to check out the jets at some point to see if I can't get it perfect. But, the bottom line is, it is now mobile again and got me through the trial at Danbury on Sunday. Good times. I did however try to blame "running the engine in" for me fiving a section... truth is, I was just being a pussy with the throttle! ha ha

On the understanding that I dont easily have access to the technical equipment to make those assessments, I took it down the shop and let them have a look... I'm assured the wear is over the top and so its been sent off to be nikosil'd and I've got a new piston on the way. I 100% can't afford that, but nevermind. I've also asked for gaskets, o rings and little end bearings. May as well? In terms of the airbox issues (good memory by the way JSE), I feel fairly happy those are now resolved. I've put the bike through some fairly unpleasant conditions and there isn't any evidence of filth getting past the filter or any obscure openings in the rubber / plastic. Before long I will have replaced almost everythying on the bike! I can lay claim to owning the newest old bike in the country!

The connecting rod has a very small amount of play side to side. The movement I'm talking about is the piston moving along the small end bearing. I'm fairly sure this is normal. I looked at a parts drawing and it shows the small end bearing is considerably wider than the small end of the con rod. I kind of assumed that there should be some packers or something to limit this movement, but the drawing confirms that what i have is normal. In terms of signs of abuse, I really can't see any. There are no marks, scrapes or signs of deformed amterial inside the bore or on the piston. Howver, if I grab the con rod in one hand and rock the piston side to side, there is slight play which makes me think its just the little end bearings? Given that the little end bearings for my bike are less than £20, I'm inclined to replace it, rebuild the bike and see if theres an improvement? £20 and an hours work to rebuild seems like a risk worth taking if it means I save £350 for new pistons and nickosealing. I'll also try and measure the gaps around the piston inside the bore. Can anyone tell me what to expect? I'm pressuming a set of feeler gauges for setting spark plugs should be ok? Cheers, Dave

Hi Phil, There is a manual for the front suspension, but I can't see one for the bike overall.. click here for the forks manual. It may help a little. Other than that, I'm sure someone on here can offer some wise words.

its a rattle. It really does sound like a diesel. The gas gas dealer who listened to it said piston slap and a few others have said little end. I have no idea

Hmmm...not quite. I've taken the barrel off and the so now the piston is exposed and fixed to the con rod. The float is along the little end bearing I guess?

Hi (again) Ok, having rebuilt the bike after the last bout of issues (broken kickstart gear, sticking throttle, cracked airbox.... etc) I rode at a trial and was told by a few knowing souls that the top end has gone. I'll not bother trying to explain the noise it makes, but it does definitely run with a rattle which has attracted remarks about the it being the new Gas Gas Diesel... blah blah blah. Anyway, I took it over to someone in the know and was told the noise is piston slap and that I should strip off the head and piston and send the head for nickosealing. So, obedient as I am, I've stripped the head off this evening and I can't see anything wrong? Having been around when someone bravely dismantled their bike in the woods for the same problem, the head was passed about and everyone was making comments like "jeez, its mullered", "look at the state of that" etc. I never looked at it, but I assume it has to be pretty bad to be so obvious? So, before I rush the parts down to my parts man what else should I be looking at? The piston has side to side movement of about an inch, but it feels like the sort of movement its meant to have. Its slides rather than slops. If I grab hold of the con rod and give it a wiggle there is teeny tiny bit of play as it disappears into the crank. Finally, if it is decided i need all the new bits, how do i get the piston off? I can see some sort of clip, but can fathom how to remove it and I've learned my lesson with just bashing stuff now! Any and all help would be great;ey appreciated Dave

hi David, I'm glad you're enjoying reading my thread... I'm enjoying writing it, despite my constant bleating of misery! ha ha... I have certainly learned the lesson of expensive hobbies... But, that said I think even I wasn't naive enough to think I'd get away with a tenner in the honesty box every week and just ride forever without any expenses... I just hadn't quite thought they would be as expensive and as frequent! Still, my philosophy is "in for a penny in for a pound"... If I stop now, I've achieved nothing. I've not got an operational bike and I've got not really got anything worth selling, so I shall plough onwards. Eventually I've got to have fixed everything right? ..... right? ! ! With the "knocking", my ear isn't sophisticated enough to know what it is, but two seperate people telling me exactly the same thing is enough of an indication. I spoke yesterday with the guy that will get the parts and he assured me I should be ok to ride it a few more times without too risk of implossion or instant death, so I'll ride it in the local trial this Saturday, then hang on to it for the bank holiday weekend, then strip it down. I'll buy a kit of parts to replace the small end bearings etc anyway. If, when the barrel comes off, it looks ok then I'll simply replace the worn parts and be on my way... If not, off it goes to the shop for nickosealing. Referring to your comments on the chain, I am certainly no pro and not really capable of a great deal of hopping either! But, it could be worth looking at. It may be something to go on the back burner, just in case I ever experience a month where I haven't spent over

So, the new bits arrived Friday afternoon and so we set to it in the few hours after work and before "pub o clock" Some of the work spilled over to Saturday morning but all was done in time for the trial at Beazley End (which I enjoyed very much !) We finished assembling the forks and rebuilt them onto the bike. I don't know what oil they had in before but I added 10W in an attempt to account for me being heavy. Re-assembling the front end was more complicated than I'd anticipated, but we got there with some presistance. The kick start also took some effort as a "key member of my technical team" / Dad, forgot which order the parts came off in. But, we get it there. And... a few uncharacteristic kicks, it fired into life! I rode for a few mintues round the front garden and all seemed ok, so it was packed onto the car and back to mine for a power nap before the trial (i was up at 5:30 on Saturday morning for some much needed overtime!) The bike behaved well at the trial, started when it should etc, no loss of fluids etc. So, I was really happy. There was only one downside, I passed someone and they stopped me to ask if I was the bloke on the blue Gas Gas? Which obvioulsy I was and they had heard me ride past and were concerned that my bike rattled a bit too much. I asked the question of a trusted ear and was advised that the top end is knackered. It seems the wallet is not due a rest yet! Apparently piston slap is the problem? The remedy sounds like the best part of

Hmmm, well I think I'd agree with "see how it goes" for the time being. In the mean time, still no parts! Aaaargh. So onwards with the list. Today we stripped down the front end and I replaced the front wheel bearings which was easy enough. Also fairly satisfying as the bearings that came out were all graunchy and rough and now it is smooth and lovely. Triffic. Then on to the front brakes. They were binding and not braking very consistently. I had previously had a go at the caliper and was fairly happy it was functioning properly so attention turned to the disc. The free spinning wheel would highlight that the brakes rub at a certain point suggestig the disc was bent. We took the disc off and clamped it in the lathe and spun it manually to clock the deflection of the disc. I was straight to within about 0.25mm which is pleasing for something that gets hot and cold lots and has done so for the last ten years. But it didn't solve the problem... After some umming and arrrring we spotted that two of the six retaining washers / top hats the held the disc were slightly different. What it meant was that the disc was being clamped and not floating. Bingo bango. I've currently added some super thin washers which seem ok. I will replace with a proper part in due course. But now the wheel spins beautifully with a reasurringly constant sound of the pads just kissing the disc. Good job. When then started on the forks. The seals are weeping ever so slightly and I want to add a heavier oil (to counteract my considerable bulk!). Dismantling the forks from the bike was straight forward enough and getting the internals out of the forks was ok too... I was fairly surprised that the oil didn't drain out of the drain plug at the bottom, rather it poured out all over my hands. But hey ho. We followed the tips on gasgas.com to replace the seals and were pleasantly surpised at the effectiveness of a oil filter tool at removing to the top part of the shock. It worked a dream. Getting the retaining clip out was a bit of a bitch but it was eventually acheived with the application of aggression We found a peice of aluminium which was a perfect piece for slowly pulling the seal into position. By gently tightening the screw, the seal seated really nicely. For ease of replacement in the future we ground a point on one end of the clip. This should allow better access to stick a screwdriver in there to release it next time. That was about that for this evening... Fingers crossed the parts arrive tomorrow and I can bunk off work in the afternoon to get it all put back together.

The black stuff is oily. dusty scum! The air filter was correctly fitted and intact, but it was totally dry. The airbox iteself had a number of small cracks which we have now packed and sealed. The largest of these would easily have been big enough to draw in dusty air on dry days and without a doubt, water. The carb to air box rubber was equally disgusting, so I'm sure the issue is coming from the cracks in the airbox and the fact the filter was dry. It is now all sealed and the filter is re oiled. Having had the carb out completely, I took opportunity to stick a finger into the carb to head rubber mount and that was actually remarkably clean. Can't really explain why as I can't see why all that gunk wouldn't have been drawn in? In terms of the mains or crank bearings, what should I be looking for to identify bad signs of wear. Can you identify wear by listening to the bike running or do you have to open the engine and wiggle bits? My ethos is, I'd rather fix it now and have an old bike where all the wearable parts are renewed. Stitch in time and all that old cobblers! I also live in the hope that by doing the right things now and disturbing the amount of time I can actually ride 9not to mention destroying my wallet), I'm hoping that once its all done, the bike will reward me with hours on end of trouble free riding!

Seeing as my bits and pieces aren't due for a couple of days, I went back to the old mans to address some of the other issues. As I mentioned above, the throttle jammed after I picked up the bike. Its not the first times its happened and so far I've been able to stop it quickly, thus saving it from melting itself! The screws to the airbox were stuck and as a result I'd "kind of" not done anything about the air filter... hence tonights job. So, we took the plastics right off and pulled out the entire airbox. Poor old bike. Naked and trying to cover its modesty with an oily rag! We seperated the side cover from the airbox after some minor effort. The screws were seized into the bar the runs across the airbox. Having opened it up it was immediately clear where the problems were. It was full of mud (I'm talking bit chunks of mud), grit and grime. We cleaned it all up, soaped it down and cleared out all the gunge. We managed to identify some cracks courtesy of over tightening. These were sealed up with some araldite to keep the grime out. The filter was cleaned and reoiled and put back in place. I'll see how that looks after a few weeks and it may end up getting replaced. I also took the opportunity to get the carb right out and see whether there was any evidence as to why the throttle was sticking... Can you see any evidence? I can.... lots of it! It was disgusting! So, I gave it a thorough cleaning and hopefully, that will be the end of my sticking throttle. I'd also notice the power take up was gettign slower... the engine seemed lazier somhow? I can convince myself that would be caused by the amount of filth passing into the carb. Anyway... Tomorrow is a down day as I have togo visit the chiropractor in the evening.. but hopefully the day after will be filled with refitting the kickstart components, along with a pleasant surpise that they were remarkably cheap! Here's hoping.

Alas, the red thing in the back ground isn't mine... Besides, I don't think they do a tow bar for it? ha ha... The tool we made sat over the studs and held it in place that way. It worked very nicely and will be kept in my kit for ever more. I have just ordered new gaskets, water pump seal and shaft kit and a pair of kick start gears (pinion kickstart and kickstart pawl - according to the parts list). Can't wait to find out how cheap that will be ! (insert sarcasm here)

Thanks for the advice Mr Pumpkin Trials... I think I will do the water pump seals and shaft. I'd rather be sure than keep messing around with it. In terms of the timing, I think it shouldn't be an issue. I feel fairly confident I caused the issue by stomping on the kick start after feeling slightly miffed at having just dumped myself off the bike. When its rebuilt, I will treat it with cuation! and Trial Trial... it might be a little horsey yes. Alas, its gearbox is in bits at the moment too! Maybe its the mechanics not the machinery! ha ha

Pics of the home made tool as we were rather proud of it... In manufacture with Dad looking most professional (and for the H&S eagles amongst us, those glasses are safety spec) Offered upto the bike. It was a really nice snug fit and the lever (which fits in the hole visible at the top) is a 3/8" drive extension, which always lives in my tool bag.

Well, at least I'm getting plenty of excuses to learn to maintain my bike. After riding for an hour or so on Saturday, I decide to fall in the mud for a little while. Having picked myself up and scraped the mud out of various parts of the bike, I was ready to head off again and CRUNCH... the kick start broke. Now, I'm not a very lucky man... so naturally, this took place at literally the furthest corner of the woods. So, I pushed the bike up the tallest hill I could managed and bump started. Apparently the throttle was jammed too... good times . I managed quite quickly to resolve the throttle issue after a long ish stroll back to the car for some tools. But, once the throttle was freed up (and the throttle sticking is a problem of its own), I tried to bump it again with no avail... After about 40mins I gave up and pushed it back to the car... This took me another 40mins! I have never sweated so much in my life! I learned a life lesson though... My initial plan was to work on the bike Saturday morning as the rear brake is dragging slightly... But, I woke up and the weather was ok and thought, sod it, I'll go ride and fix it tomorrow. You can all imagine how happy I was with that decision as I was pushing the bike up hill for what felt like a lifetime! So, it was over to visit the font of knowledge (or Dad as he is more commonly known) and we set about establishing the problem. Water drained (no problem), oil drained (it's a bit cloudy after three rides... will come back to this later). Dismantled the clutch cover and no obvious signs of a problem. I was kind of hoping to see a broken spring or something. Now, to get the clutch off, I sat with greasy palms thumb through the internet on my IPad and read lots of advice on how to get the clutch off, but we couldn't do it. So, we made a tool. How many people are lucjy enough to have a Dad with a lathe and milling machine in the garage! ha ha... The retaining nut on the clutch was mega tight, but it did come off nicely in the end. I was soon obvious that the "sharks teeth" on the kick start mechanism are worn right out. I suspect lazy kick starting technique is at fault here. So.... questions: - Does any body know where I can get a cheap (possibly used) kickstart pawl? I think I only need the part with the tab on it... I've a quick look online and it looks like expensive parts -Does anybody know what torque the central clutch retaining nut needs to be tightened too? -Can anybody confirm whether ATF oil goes a bit creamy under normal use or is it definitely water? Its not discoloured really but the texture is creamier than it went in! If its a problem where to start? o rings, water pump seals, gaskets etc? Thanks in advance and I'll keep you posted with progress... I got dark this evening so we stopped whilst we were ahead! Dave

Hi, I had a similar probglem with my 250TXT. My fan was ok when tested with 12VDC, but the either the rectifier or the temp sensor was broken (I'm still nto sure which one as I replaced both at the same time). Assuming your bike is the same as mine, the rectifier should be mounted to the rear of the radiatior (at teh top left). Its a black box (approx 1" x 1". I also struggled slightly with wiring colours. There is a drawing on the Gas Gas website (here) To find the rest of the wiring diagrams, click here I'm not to sure about the fan motor replacement, but there is a sticky link on this forum explaing how to do it. Hope this helps. Good luck. Dave

I had same thoughts... I've not quite got the figure for lycra! I went down the route of Motorcross Pants and I've been really pleased with them. I went to an MX shop (which there seems to be more of than Trials shops) and was able to try on lots of different brands. I like the look of the Fox stuff, but actually found that they were too baggy? MX jeans often include space around the knee for pads / braces. In my opinion the fox pants were too baggy, troy stuff was ok, snug for MX pants but baggier than trials pants. In the end I chose Shift (faction) pants. They are really comfy and appear to be well made and durable. Haven't tried them in the cold yet, but so far so good... Good fit, flexible, breathable areas around all the "sweaty bits", comfy to wear under boots. Only downside, nowhere to put a car key or phone or anything.. .but I doubt you could hide an i phone in lyrca either! About