opdeweegh1

Aye Ross. I could maybe send him a couple of photo's showing the situation anyway, and then see what he say's. Otherwise looks like I will have to start from scratch again and try sell this one on. Must be of some use to someone?? Cheers. Paul.

Hi Ross. It was Central Wheel Components down in Birmingham. I will take a photo when I get back home from Offshore and send it down to the guy at Central and see what he say's?? As it stands just now with the drive sprocket and cushdrive being a separate unit from the actual hub, it would appear to me that little can be done. Therefore if I need to start from scratch again what is the best rear hub to be using, Grimeca conical like what was used on the old Greeves etc??

Old Trials Fanatic. As the hub was a bare hub, I was unable to determine the original offsets. I asked the wheel builder if this would be a problem and they said no as long as they knew the type of hub ie: full width, single sided etc. They did give me the option of either 1.85 or 2.15. I asked if it would make any difference and the reply was no, the wider rim would allow for wider tyres, but as the tyres are all of standard size it made no difference??

Some help please guy's. I have just had a British hub co hub c/w with cushdrive assembly restrung with stainless spokes and a new Morad 2.15 alloy rim. All looks lovely with new sprocket and hub powder coated etc etc. However when offered into the James Captain K7 frame and swingarm with the rear drive sprocket aligned to the engine sprocket, the centre of the tyre is about 1" offset to the right of the frame, making the wheel offset to the centre line of the frame. There is an element of adjustment that I have made with spacers etc, but to get the wheel centralised to the centre line of the frame means that the chain is misaligned to the engine drive sprocket. I was assured that the hub was suitable for my project, however I now have doubts and am also a significant amount of money out of pocket if it's no good?? Is there anything that can be done?? Should I be using a grimeca style hub instead?? Any advice appreciated. Cheers.

Totalshell I have read your blog with much interest and admiration. I am currently building up a James Captain K7 framed bike with a villiers 250 engine. I was particularly interested in your slimline clutch case and also your timing chain tensioner wheel. Are these cases readily available and was the tensioner wheel a homemade affair. Would be able to assist with providing information for me? My email is opdeweegh1@hotmail.co.uk Regards Paul.

Hello People. What is the best jetting options for an Amal Mk1 626 concentric going to be fitted to a Villiers 250. Cheers. Paul.

Hello People. Where is the best place to get fork seals for a set of what I believe are MP625 forks. Cheers.

Hello people. Anyone know where I can get a rear sprocket for a british hub co with cush drive? In the process of rebuilding an old James Captain K7 with a villiers 32a engine. What would be the best sprocket size. The current home made welded steel job has got 72 teeth which I thought to be very high. I thought 58-62 would have been more realistic. Any thoughts info would be appreciated. Cheers. Paul.

Ok people I need some advice / expertise. What would be the best fork set up for a 1959-60 James Captain K7 with a Villiers 32a engine. I have been told that Norton roadholder lower sliders with Ossa stanchions and Bultaco internals are the weapon of choice. What are your opinions? Is any one doing reproduction Norton roadholder lower sliders? I know Greeves are doing full sets of MP forks, but at a price?? Any advice - telephone number contacts etc would be appreciated. Cheers. Paul.

Have lost Mick and Heathers number and need some info on a Pre 65 James. Anyone got his number or if you see this Michael can you give me a call. 01369 840660 Cheers. Paul.

Taking the flywheel cover off is purely to remove any excess moisture from the ignition system. The earlier beta's have been know to develop stator problems, a frequent spray of WD40 to repel any moisture will save you well earned pennies later. Worthwhile removing the water pump and checking the casing behind and around the impellor as there have been several cases of erosion in the magnesium cases where a hole develops and the water enters the gearbox oil. I use Dextron ATF2 automatic transmision fluid which is red, therefore if any water gets in you can immediately see the oil turn pink in the sight glass. Hope this helps.

So have you got any pictures of the unit installed?

Is it definately coming from the engine? A mate of mine had an annoying rattle and it turned out to be the front sprocket was wearing on the inside nearest the casing, so hard to find and pin point.

Hi Folks. In your experiences what is the BEST proven method of applying new decals to a Beta. Is it the wet method ie: squeezie bottle with a little soapy water or the bone dry method, which can be tricky!!!!!!!!!!! I don't really want to screw up a good decal kit? Cheers.

62ml of 2 stroke to every 5 litres of fuel does the trick.

Hi there. A couple of things to look out for!! Definately change the plug and while your doing it remove the HT plug cap, it just unscrews from the HT lead, cut a couple of mm off the HT lead and then screw the plug cap back on nice and tight, put a small tiewrap around the end of the HT cap where it screws onto the lead. This has been a common problem on a couple of sherco's recently. The clutch issue is common to most Sherco's. Before starting the bike put it into 4th gear and pull the clutch in, rock the bike back and forth on a hard surface till you break the friction between the clutch plates, once the bike is able to be pushed forward without dragging the tyre on the surface then it will be firne for the rest of the day. Hope this helps. Paul.

Hi there. Contact Gary Coward at his website www.Highlandleisuresport.co.uk they are a 1 litre auxilliary fuel tank and he sells them for about

Just wanted to say thanks to the Marshall who handed the jacket into the secretary after the trial. Contacted Fort William Police who are going to return it. Thanks again.

Hello People. My daughter has left her XC-Tinc, yellow trials jacket at the Lower Mamore section "C" today ( Saturday). We went back later in the day but it had gone. If anyone perhaps knows the where abouts of said jacket, I would appreciate it if you could let me know either through this post or give me a call on 07881 495025. I will gladly pay any postage to have it returned. Thanks.

Hi Folks. Anyone know whereabouts on Mull will the trial be held in July 2008. I'm looking to go and want to get accomodation sorted early as it's peak season for bed and breccy etc. Cheers.

Marty. I have a 2006 sherco 50 kid " Rev and go " for sale on ebay just now. Just the right size for 5-10 year olds to start on.

Sorry guys. At work offshore just now, won't be home until the 2nd of October can you wait and I'll post piccies then? If not pull up a picture of a gasgas rear end and then pretty much just copy that except widen it to cover across the exhaust / airbox joint and lengthen to overlap the top of the swingarm. Cheers.

Hi there. Best thing to use to protect it from the rear wheel side is use 1.5mm rubber gasket material cut to shape and glued to the airbox, pretty similar to what the gasgas use. I cut mine so that it over lapped onto the exhaust to protect the joint between the exhaust and airbox, also made it long enough to hang just below the swingarm top edge to protect the rear shocker. The breakage of the crap catcher on the rear mud guard is a commonn problem, again easily fixed with a small amount of rubber glued to the underside of the mud guard, cut and shaped to overlap the piece glued onto the airbox. You wouldn't believe the amount of crap it stops getting to the air box and shocker area. Hope this helps.

Addict. Where did you get the Boyesens from and what size of pilot did you fit?

Has anyone else with an 07 Cabestany replica had any ignition problems? I bought the bike in June and it has only been out 3 times, the last time I rode to the first section and killed the bike to walk the section and it never started again. Contacted the dealer who in turn spoke to MRS and a stator plate was sent to me. This was fitted and the bike fired up first time, although it still has a back fire now and then. I have disconnected the 2 stage map and retarted the ignition slightly to try and see if the misfire goes away! Prior to the stator plate arriving, I removed the flywheel and could find nothing wrong. Has anyone else had any similar issues? Is this a common teething / manufacturing problem with the Cabby? Cheers