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This is a perennial issue that we all seem to talk about, but not do anything until the land is sold, then its too late. We lost one parcel in MN here just due to sale. Great people, they were happy with us, but older and retirement needs take first place.
So, maybe these things get people motivated to move ahead in small steps.
I am hearing two different threads here:
1. Land closed due to owners saying no. I SUPPORT this! the owners should decide what they want to do with their land. And if they want to ride or let people ride they should be able to do it. Riverside? topic number 2.
as far as addressing the private land issue, we should always be looking ahead, not reacting to crisis. Make the landowners happy, do small stuff, pay them well, keep it clean, treat it well. That is so different than the stereotype mx or atv crowd it sure helps.
2. Government restrictions: I don't want to get started there...this is a state where the eminent domain case Walser Buick vs. the city started. City took over private property to be sold to a developer who would make it better for the city (i.e. more tax revenue). Not for public roads, bridges, etc. Just because city decides you aren't using your property as wisely as they think it shoudl be for the common good, they can take it. Not quite that simple, but that's the essence.
GET INVOLVED in local politics. Talk to your local reps, way ahead, on issues. And get involved in $$, phone calling, literature, etc. Face it, protesting doesn't do it. Legislators will respect our opinions when they see the legwork behind the words. Letters to editors on the issues, or in support of candidates, etc. In MN we have a political tax credit, $50-100 totally refunded, for contributions. Not deduction, but 100% credit.
I hate it, but its a necessary evil to support many different causes and issues I believe in. But come to think of it, it's the very essence of democracy that most of the world risks their life to escape to come here.
So get involved, pay your dues, instead of just consuming the benefits. Make it better for the future generations
where's that nitroglycern heart medication. . . .
kcj
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Anyone know if the Sherco uses similar needle bearings as the older GG? GG96 & 2000 uses HK1516 sealed, which are I bbelieve 15 mm OD.
I am going to make a small tool to press bearings out & in, to make it easier than the vise and sockets, or sockets and threaded rods. Wanted to make it fit the GG we have now, and hopefully Sherco & Montesa if I need some sort of OD adaptors.
kcj
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there are some italjet trials parts on ebay us, I think still active. no idea what for. k
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I've bought NOS parts from John Cane a couple times (I am in the US), no problems with him. Maybe a bad day?
k
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ps: I'd try raising the price rainge if at ALL possible. I know, budget, etc. I had the same issues son's bike, had to be under 2000 when we bought that.
But as you are finding, the older mdern stuff tends to bottom out about 1500-2000 regardless of age and condition. Below that price, only options seem to be the TY, Aprilia, Fanitc, and other out of production stuff.
At the low price end, some people keep the oldie around as a 'buddy bike' because it's not worth so much to sell.
If you can bump to 2500, you might see more choice or better shapes. 3000 puts you in a very good bargaining position, and severlal years newer, lighter, etc. etc.
Keep in mind this advice is someone who rides the TY when my kids ride the modern stuff, and I drive an 88 van because the money isn't there to upgrade. BUT I have learned bumping the purchase price at the front end is a whole lot better value in the long run if it is at all possible.
kcj
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BB = bulletin boards, forums. like this. USMTA had discussion as a possibility, an idea to pursue later. Bike transp is such a hastle, and trials is so spread out as you are finding, that a central clearing house for people travelling to nationals, or other personal trips, would be great. If we knew about each others needs, we could help by adding a bike to a trailer or empty spot in the van. There are some risks and liabiilties, but I think it could work out in many cases.
no. didn't know any bikes in Mich, but thought if you had something located there we could get it back here. Had to go from MSP to Lansing MI and back for some equipment. (1290 miles, left Fri am, back here Sat noon, about 28 hrs in the little pickup. So today will be tough!)
hope to see you at Thielman. kcj
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Pinch bolt on one side, then unscrew the Torx spline from the other side, drop wheel down. Caliper should not have to come off. Am I missing the question here?
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all the new bikes are so good as to be about interchangeable.
ryans business model, service and support information, parts views, manual information, all on the web, makes a huge difference.
k
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turn the front sprocket around, see if the noise changes.
NOT a permanent fix, just a test.
If you get on it early, you can flip the sprocket over occasionally and get more use, but once the chain pitch distance wears, it rides up higher in the sprocket no matter how tight you try and make it.
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Duluth:
not sure if it matters to you, but I might be going from Mpls Mn to central michigan and back this weekend.
k
the new USMTA organization in US has discussed a BB for travelling and transportation.
k
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one down side, but to be expected, is that kids that age go through bikes so fast. They are growing physically, and if they like trials, can grow their skills so fast its incredible. I have seen kids blow through 3 classes in one season, and learning all the skills, not just moving up.
So expect a kid learning on GG or TY will outgrow it next season. I think its a good thing. Means he is learning, growing, and working at a new interest. Just like outgrowing sports gear, clothes, etc. its a cost in the process. But still well worth it to me.
I would go more modern than TY, but themain thing is meet some people and ride their kids bikes. And some of them might be for sale.
k
k
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Having taught quite a few kids and adults to ride, one caution: is this his idea or dad's? If he is bmx driven (I assume it means bicycle pedal bike mx like here) his basic personality will be noise, speed, jumps, air, etc. My 3 kids were bmx (oldest was Gold Cup National #1 for a year). The younger two weren't good or aggressive at bmx, and took to trials and did great. Older good at bmx, bored with trials, only rode one year.
So, my point is to approach them differently depending on their interests.
TY80 is tough and good starter, (all mine started there) but 12 yrs old I would suggest otherwise. Frames and shocks aren't strong for heavier kids-not so much their weight (most trials dads have hauled our 200 lb aging bodies around on a TY80 at some time), but that older kids like to jump and abuse them.
I'd suggest going out with friends and riding many different smaller bikes. start with an auto clutch, XR or something. At 12 yrs old, in an hour he should be ready for clutch. Try something else, see how big he can physically handle.
Ultimately, the biggest frame and wheels he can handle, throw around, and reach the ground. Don't oversize him or its discouraging. But undersizing quickly gets boring and trade in time. Small engine as possible. Slow throttle tube to start. Any engine can haul him around a long time, and less likely to get in trouble. Hey, Ishy did the SSDT on a 125.
If it's fun for him, not intimidating, but not boring, he will learn a lot even if he passes on to some other sport.
kcj
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You will need to advise if it's a twin shock TY250, then what color defines the year. If it's a monoshock TY250, whole different bike.
And what info you are looking for.
There are many knowledgeable and very helpful people on these boards. Most tend to have the most knowedge with one or the other of the TS or the mono.
Both are quite dated, but rugged and lots of fun. Basically I look at this as ride what you have and have fun and learn. Even the old bikes are far more capable than I am. It's a ball, welcome aboard. kcj
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Q the big supermarkets do brand new jeans for
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I know someone working in the middle UK, home is Scotland, looking for a 175. mail me off line and I will send you his email address. tks, kcj
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they tend to rattle, and run ok even with loose bore. don't recall, but I think spec is .0015 to .002, but I've had one running ok that measured at .004 loose. Depends on the taper, and if the bore is damaged or just worn. Not recommended, but you could get it back together and running with a new set of rings, then watch for a better cylinder as time permits. Or a whole second engine, go through that at your leisure time.
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Try Bob Ginder at B&J (www.bjracing.com ??) He will probably do some nice proting work also.
Look at Wiseco, but they don't list the TY175 anymore. The last one I got was listed for a DT175 of same year, piston appears same.
Sleeves: LA Sleeve might have. Or, just go on ebay for a good used cylinder andhave that machined up. Likely to be much cheaper if you are not in a rush.
kcj
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another echo of the same recommendation (and I have several TY350) Change all the fluids and filters then ride the TY as is and get some expereience in trials, in learning, and in riding many other types of bikes. Put the extra money in a fund so when the right used modern bike comes along you can move up.
don't put much into updating the old one as the basic technology just isn't there.
I do quite a lot to my TY just for the challenge to keep it updated, but its NOT a rational decision, its a fun decision. to ride well, much easier, i grad the modern bike.
kcj
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fix it right, (like the silicone idea), don't even think about a tube unless its just to finish out the day. I'm trying to convert an older bike from tube to tubeless because I hate bead locks and tire repairs so much. The newer ones, a couple plugs in and we are going again.
Also, the flex is reduced quiute a bit with tube in place.
k
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like the prior post, I'd recommend a smaller bike, say 200. Much easier to control, and forces good technique rather than just throttle. Granted, you are limited on progression to the upper classes, but sounds like lyou are totally new to mc anyway. And, the smaller bike is eariser for the daughters to ride, and get them involved. I bought a used 200 for the daughter (son has a 270), until she regularly beats me now. I can ride far better on the 200 than on the 270 personally.
do't be discuouraged, it looks so easy why can't I do that turn. Highly addictive, and great people.
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If you can have it running, spray some WD40 or water or something in the seal area in question. The engine should change sound up or down.
Granted its easy to change the seal, but its nice to verify ahead of time that it is indeed a problem.
kcj
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you need the right puller, can damage the cases or the flywheel.
It is a generic japanese, 27 mm LH thread if I recall correctly.
Dennis Kirk has them maybe $15 or 20.
You may need a spanner to hold the flywheel from turning also, I made from a bar stock with some pins. Also made another one by welding bars onto an old vise grips.
kcj
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found it.
http://thescambaiter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109
kcj
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The engine flame heats up the plug, not the amount of spark. More spark can erode the electrodes rapidly, but should not affect the heat range. If the porcelan is white, its way hot, but from leanmix or too much timing.
kcj
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what is it? if its ether, (diesel engine starting fluid) it works great, but tends to wash the oil out of filter and off the parts inside the engine. Have seen bad effects and seized pistons.
I use WD40 as starting aid if the weather is good, only small amounts of ether if very cold.
k
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