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bruce A has most of Chris Johnson's stuff on his website.
I have some TY monos and am looking for info on footpegs also. I want to lower dramatically and change to modern wider pegs, Most of whatI have heard say to lower an inch or even more if possible. Since the TY feels really tall, I will do that. I really notice it when moving back and forth from TY to modern. Going back, it feels like balancing on a flagpole.
I hear varying opinions on front/rear. It's alredy a bit nose light, pushes the front wheel and wheelies easily, so I would lean to down or maybe ahead up to an inch.
Someone posted here in the past some comparisons of wheelbase, peg, and engine relationships between many of the older 'classic' trialers and the moderns. Much of the relationships and ratios remained the same. As I recall it was a Hodaka fan who did some really good research. Jay Lael?
k
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First the normal cleaning and lube of the linkage area. Then look at the cable.
I have a TY250 that had a brutal clutch. Assorted cable lubes made no difference. Cable looked really good, the bike is decades onld but low hours. Disconnected, the cable moved really smooth. Changing to another cable solved the problem. Apparently some spots inside the cable cause friction to the housing when under tension and side load, but when moving by hand it felt smooth. Borrow one from somewhere else and see if it changes.
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should i now start using the spark plug for cold temperatures? and what is the difference?
There have been some good discussions on this board int he past, might be in archives.
'Hot' and 'cold' plugs do not refer to the outside air temps, nor to whether they make the engine run hotter or colder. It means the operating temperature of the tip of the insulator. Hotter plug burns off deposits better, but becomes hot enough to cause preignition at heavy loads and high opeating temperatures. Selecting the plug range is defined by speeds and loads and engine design. Only very small effects by outside temperatures, and that is probably due to air density and rich/lean effects, not actual air temp. If the tip runs several hundred degrees due to the flame, then + or - 50F in incoming air temperature won't mean too much.
send me an address off line and I will forward some short articles on plug information.
k
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sounds like you have many things to check.
If you can run the bike in between changes, I would suggest only one thing at t a time. Otherwise you won't know for sure what fixed it, or if it is fixed or just hiding for a moment.
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96 had a complicated air box, difficult to service. 97 had a side acess panel for the airbox. Neither by themself are go/no go on the decision, but the 96 was harder to service filter and more chances of damaging the conneciton of box to carb. In either case, sucking dirt can damage the expensice chrome bore. I would make sure the box to joint hasn't been damaged, or taped or sealed up, or any patches indicated someone took less then good care.
my son has a 96, I am looking for a 97 asirbox to fit someday if anyone has one.
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cool rig
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bultaco-M-1...580771288QQrdZ1
are there any sidecar trials in the US, I would like to see an event.
kcj
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this is one of the most curious things to me, I would love to know a serious explanation of why it works. Seems way too low temperature to affect the metallurgy. best explanation I have heard is that the water/steaming cleans out the film from the pads surface, like steam cleaning. Makes sense, but no authoritative source for that, I just heard it somewhere.
It does work. I'm just curious as to why.
k
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maybe its the rumour (started right now) that Honda has bought gasgas. . . .
it does sound suspicious though
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when and where is 06?
I have a chance to schedule a business trip next year and I'd like it to occur at an opportune time to take a few extra vacation days. . . .
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if you are in the US, I have quite a few TY80 parts, including a couple sets of forks and triple trees.
kids have outgrown the. The TY80 are far less desireable here anymore with the availability of reasonably priced used modern kid trials bikes now.
kcj
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-RTL-2...578536624QQrdZ1
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The rim band on a tubeless is also different than on a tube type. If he damages it, make sure he doesn't put in a normal tube type rim band. Here, the normal band is like inner tube material, about1/2 mm thick and $5 tops. The tubeless one is 2 to 4 mm thick, and cost me $30+ gouge for one. It also has to fit into the rim groove more precisely.
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before you pull the engine out, take off the right side cover and check out the shifter mechanism, and clusth assembly. something was not put back in correctly.
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ebay.
be prepared to pay. last one I saw went for almost $US200.
kcj
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more discussion in the past you may find in the search.
By iridium I assume you mean the fine wire expensive alloy stuff.
Main reason is not the material itself, but the fact it can be made into a fine wire electrode and not melt from combustion heat. The fine wire sparks easier.
I run the fine wire plugs in any 2 stroke I can buy them for: mc, lawn trimmers, chainsaws, etc. Well worth the money.
kcj
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les mizell has fitted new pros with Magura clutch master cylinders that are a mm or so larger diameter. Faster action, less drag, but more fore required at the lever. He might have some info for you.
kj
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I had a TY A model with (TK?) carb. FLoats leaked, needle & seat were worn, and I could not find parts from Yam. I put Bob's Mikuni kit on it. Spendy at the time, As I recall $250 put into a $500 motorcycle, but it did make a huge difference. Started better, jetted cleanly, better response, etc etc. Granted, comparing slowly wearing out old carb to new fresh carb, so I can't comment on the change from stock carb to the Mik design. Overall, though I would expect any old stock carb still around would likley be worn slide, worn floats, etc.
If the bike looks good and I plannd on keeping it, I would cough up and spend the money for the new Mikuni kit again.
Might try ebay if no hurry. There are often TY carbs going through there.
k
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I don't know anything about Fantics, but Yam TY175 has wire circlips inside the fork legs. The bent ends corrode and break off, so I could not grab with pliers or get a blade underneath the end of the wire.
To get them out, I measured down and drilled a 1/8 inch hole through the alum slider in from the outside right in line with the wire groove. Just drill deep enough slowly to reach the wire, ohterwise the bit may snag and twist. I located the hole to the inside where it won't show.
Then I used a small pin punch to break the wire loose from all the rust in its groove, and push it radially inward, got a thin blade behind it and worked them out. Upon reinstall, it got the normal Never Seez antiseize packing to prevent future corrosion.
No idea if this applies to you, but it has worked on a couple old sliders.
kcj
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softer sidewalls, much better grip.
for me, having both kinds, the ease of repair is far and away the big reason. so much so I am trying to convert a couple old ones to tubeless rims.
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USA reader, holding back from any smart sexist comments.
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charlie: the younger riders have only grown up with digital clocks. How do they find this 3:00 place?
k
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cheap to do, but very expensive for the first one.
Friend in the plastics mold business, and molds are 10's of thousands of dollars.
taking sheer numbers of trials riders vs. MX riders (must be 100x or 1000x MX here in the states), divided by the mold cost = most vendors say no way.
numbers = demand = people willing to supply = cost competition = low prices
Maier did fendors for the TY250/350 but had dropped those now I think.
k
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say what, for the colonies? what we call Vise Grips?
k
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what was Sammy's? 350 ariel?
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nope, just looked of interest to others.
k
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