kevin j

Any idea of the year that fits? DT should have lighting coils similar to TY I assume? k

G: this should get those breakfast dishes clean. kcj

I have great experience with neoprene canoeing/paddling gloves used for riding. Try REI or some recreational equipment places I use them in cold wet conditions, but not when my hands would sweat. kcj

Al: I'm in. Actually I have been looking for that for a long time, and posted last year searching for similar stuff. I talked with Bill Markham, got stuff from Ringo and Al B, but could not find any finished product of what we wanted I wanted something showing club level trials instead of world level for exactly the same reasons: After any demo we would hear over and over: a. That's neat but I could never do that. b. Do they do that around here? Last year, my kids and I put together a 13 minute video, from home footage using Pinnacle Studio software. My first ever experience with this stuff. It turned out grainy, somewhat boring on the announcers (us), and not much for fancy transitions or music, but it was very well received at the IMS motorcycle show that came to Mpls. It was a prototype, and proved the need is there. My daughter also did a brochure in computer class as school, in Microsoft Publisher. The goals of the video and brochure we did were: 1. Introduce Trials as a sport 2. Focus on the entry levels 3. Promote the local club. How we used: Steve A was doing a promo for the World Round, so we had three videos set up and running endless tapes. 1 was World level, 1 was national level, 1 was the club video we made. This worked very well for several reasons: a. Gave people the exposure to all levels, no matter what their interest. B. Gave a natural contact point, we could approach them, explain there were three levels being shown, and it was an ice breaker for beginning conversation. We could then explain what they were looking at, redirect to another level on other tv, pass out a brochure, etc. We had a poster, a tabletop of misc handouts, old issues of Trials Comp, pocket sized schedule cards, and brochures. 3 TV

Also check the exhaust for restriction, althought that should show up early under full throttle. k

you say it runs aminute or so. Is this at idle, or higher rpm? Time related might hint to exhaust restriction, or fuel supply running out, or heat buildup. Changing the plug may solve the plug prolblem, or it might be allowing time to bleed the exhaust out, or replenish the fuel. I have been embarassed by both. Try a higher rpm and check the length of time it runs. Maybe pull the exhaust off and see if it will continue longer than a minute. Try turning off fuel immediately when it stops, check the carb bowl, etc. k

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I have tried all the normal fixes, shoes, grooves, sanding shoes and drums, etc. etc. Have never tried the change from single leading shoe to doulbe leading shoe. Then I looked into fitting forks etc from an older eta or Fantic. Rake & trail issues there. Finally I fell into a very easy conversion: I fittted a 2000+- GasGas front wheel and 4 piston caliper to the Yam. I made a bracket that pilots on the axle, takes the torque reaction via the original lug on the Yam fork. It works great, doesn't require welding, and the original drum front wheel and drum can be put back on if desired. downside: bracket is steel, all I can weld. It is heavy. Alsi, the wheel is not quite centered, maybe 1 to 2 mmm offset to one side. I can't teel any difference. I made axle spaces to fit the ID/OD and distance differences. (Actually, so far they are washers and hand made bushings. I have the dimensions, just don't have the machine work source yet. I changed tohe caliper bolts to button head allen screws to get a couple mm more clearance, trimmed the lug on the Yam fork a bit, and the wheel is closely centered. I love it. Works great, all the parts are modern instead of old Fantic or something, and I can always rob it back to supply the GG with a wheel. I will post a couple pics tonight. I am at work. kcj

wallace: I got your email but can't figure out how to reply. no return address listed. try me again at kevincj46 at hotmail.com

wallace: wrtie me off line and I'll send you a file of notes on teh TY. Also, 'Alan B was checking on posting Chris Johnsons mods on this site. Few people update the TY anymore, so CJ said go ahead and pass around. Trimming the flywheel is a must. Clutch extender arm, and adding hex nut on the bottom of cable housing help the clutch a lot. I changed to a GasGAs front wheel and mounted the 4 piston disk front brake. I will lower the foot pegs also. Beyond that, you can't reallymake up for 20 yrs of progress, and they have a 30+ lb weight disadvantage, but still a fun bike. k

Wallace: The 250 has a cast iron sleeve and can be rebored. The 350 is chrome on alum and cannont be rebored. Has to be bored and sleeved, or etched out and nikasil replated. Both are expensive, probably more then the bike is worth. Are you sure it is mechanical knock or rattle? TY all rattle on combustion knock, especially on trailing throttle. search prior posts about removing head gasket or machining the head.. and blending higher octane gas. You may get by with new pin or piston. Basically, you may be stuck with Yam parts. Stock rings for 350 are cast iton to run on chrome bore. Wiseco and others have chromed rings for CI bore, and can't run chrome on chrome. I don't know of any sources of pistons and black rings. Pistons are $150 here, not sure of your situation. Chrome is hard, doesn't usualoy wear, but can indicate bad air filter care. Sand take it out, or loose pistons and running hot. The chrome next to exhaust port starts wearing away. If the chrome is starting to peel off you are in trouble. If not, I would check the pin and clearances and nothing is really bad just replace rings and run it as is. kj

Wiseco doesn't list the TY anymore, but the one I got for a TY175 was the one listed for CT/DT/MX etc. It has skirt windows, but I have not checked size or location for timing or reed clearance. The cylinder is back from the machine shop, I just haven't gone any further. k

Interesting to see the popularity of the 175 over there. In the states, the 250 twin shock shows up on ebay probably in the ratios of 10 yellow 250A, to 1 or 2 TY175, to 1 or less TY250 blue models. TY350 about like the 250 blue in numbers. 250 mono is very rare here, only if brought in from Canada. I have some of all of these, and like the 175 by far better than 250 twin shock. But moving from twin shock to the mono was a huge leap forward in its time. so where do they all go? I have one almost pristine looking 175 that was parked outside along a garage, under the drip edge. The gas cap shrunk (as normal) and fell off evidentally. Water got in the tank, into the carb, into the crankcase. and its all one rusted mess. I bought it cheap knowing it was stuck but not that stuck. So i suppose many are still parked out behind the cabins and in garages and on ranches somewhere. As the old racing saying goes, the older I get, the faster I was, and the better the bikes were. NOT! kcj

I have TY350's. They are a dinosaur, but tough as nails. Moving from the twin shock to the mono I thought was the ultimate in handling. Time moves on. The std mods on the 350 are trim the flywheel, machine the head, and clutch extender. I assume the 250 is similar. It is actually pretty good for beginners. I added a front disk via GasGas front wheel and 4 piston caliper. Still heavy, but now I have brakes. FOotpegs need to be lowered and converted to modern wide pegs. Maybe this winter. k

I would do the helicoil. That restores the original thread size, no drilling out of the mating parts. I have used 6mm (case bolts) and 5mm (master cylinder screws) with good success, as well as larger heavy equipment uses. If the threads are stripped out, you may not even need the pilot drill. Just run the tap in. Properly done, a stainless steel helicoil is stronger than the original threads in aluminum. I think the glue product is a one time deal. Unless there is some sort of mold release applied to the bolt, the glue would stick to the bolt also. kcj

I had a TY350 cylinder redone. Remove crhome, add Nikasil. Langcourts, in U.S., but their home is a UK company I think. Did right by me, although not cheap. I think it was 150 or 175 $US 5 years ago. k

Made this years ago. Flat bar side is for clutch basket, sprockets. Round dowel pins fit slots of alternator rotor. k

I have used the (Lym?) spray foam for several years on boots, gloves, shin pads and helmets. Works great, especiallyt on keeping gloves soft and not abrasive. However, now with 2 kids, 3 sets of all gear uses an $11 can about every second or third riding. Began too cost more than replacing the gear, so I am saving the spray for the gloves. I have tried washing everything after every ride. I did find storing the helmet upside down to dry traps water inside between shell and liner and really made a stinky mess. So at least I store it right side up. 'Fabreze' spray fabric stuff has been recommended. Its much cheaper at $5 for about a liter. It seems to help but I am looking for better ideas. What kinds of experience do others have with the car spray foam. How about house upholstery cleaners? Brands and opinions? k

You have no idea how rare and profound that is!

Friends 04 290 had a rear brake problem. Pedal was very firm, no air, but poor stopping. He did the water trick. Helped but no cigar. We lowered the pedal (for other reasons after changing pegs) and almost no brake at all. Pedal hard, no stopping. Push rod and mc stroke were fine. Upon inspection, there was a nick in the outboard side of the pedal where it passes the frame. The frame gusset tapered down and was about 1 to 2 mm wider to the inside than on another identical bike. The pedal was moving down and contacting the gusset slightly. When the pedal was lowered, it hit the gusset enough to stop before developing full pressure. Since we didn't have a Chris UK mobile milling center in the woods, a round file sufficed and brakes are working as expected. k

I knew there had to be some advantage to my riding skills. I am just down here bleeding the brakes.

Be a little cautious with any new product. Years back, I tried a teflon spray lube I had used with great success in industrial applications. Ended up it dissolved plastic. . . . I am going to try the triflow and finish line stuff though. Now, I use aerosol 'Kroil' penetrating oil down the cable (using a clamp-on 'pressure luber'), and dry graphite on the alum bar and inside the pulley area. kcj

I love it. For anyone with kids in trials, its the same story, just plug in different names and faces into the same story and the memories. The positive resluts in my kids have been amazing, whether they pursue it later or not. kcj