kevin j

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...8&category=6708 1987 honda RTL250S trials bike I don't know Hondas, but there is always interest in them on this board. k

does it have a snap ring in there holding the seals in? Or is it a simple wire ring with no ends to grab onto? Y175 used a wire ring with tapered ends. If the ends rusted, there was no way to grab the ring. I measured down from the top (or bottom in your case) of the slider and drilled a 3/32 hole into the slider from outside to intersect with the wire ring. Then I could push a pin punch through that hole and push the wire ring ends inward, snag behind with a thin screwdriver, and get them out. Lots of grease when reasemby. I think I repalced the wire rings with snap rings, can't recall. k

I use a wire wheel on drillmotor to buff up the inside. I got larger patches at a tire store, about 2 x 4 inches. Might not work here due to the flexing, but have used them further down the side wall. kcj

Pics of the damper tools. I hope. kcj

FWIW: I have some twin shock TY 175 & 250, ride a TY350, son has 96 GG270, daughter has 2000 GG200, and i just rode a friends 04 Sherco 290 last weekend. My totally unscientific opinion, the improvements are still noticeable, but occuring at a declining rate: -the jump from twin shock to TY mono was huge, mainly suspension, quantifying as say a change of 100. -jump from mono to 96 GG, say a change of 50. Mainly in brakes, balance, weight, engine response. But the maintenance in frequency, ease, cost, complexity went up accordingly. -jump from 96 to 2000, say a change of 25 or less. Less weight, 4 puck brakes, other wise close in performance (excluding engine size). -jump from 2000 to the 2004 290, say a change of 10 or 15. Very noticeable in smoothness, balance, precise steering. I'd love one. I will bet they just keep getting better and better, but each improvement is harder and harder to get. Easy to drop a pound off a 200# motorcycle, harder to get from a 150# bike. Ultimately, any of them are better than I am. Its just a lot easier to ride better on the newer stuff. And makes it harder to go back to the old stuff. Someday. . . . . kcj

so when sweetie came in and politely asked if the mower was done yet. . . . .

shortening it up will effectivelymake the rear suspension stiffer proportionally all across the range too. I will be interested to hear how it works out. To think how even the 'stock' kid bikes now compare to the old TY80's. . . . The modern kid bikes are just what I think we need to get kids really to the highest levels again. k

no, won't be there, but will be at duluth. two kids on GG, I am on the only remaining TY350. welcome aboard. kcj

qjet: you in UMTA or WOTA? Hixton WI is this weekend, Duluth 2 day in a couple weeks. yes, there are two token Beta riders (and really good ones) here! kcj

Followup on all these good tips: Last week without tool, I just put it back together and rode it. I got to it this weekend, stripped the forks, only to find the replacement seals were 1 mm too small OD. Cleaned it all up and reassembled, awaiting new seals. 1. Air impact tool = Duh, took the CP out of the bottom drawer and it came right out. Inner rod did turn a bit though. I use the impact gun for flywheel and crankshaft gear nuts, but never crossed my mind. 2. On the second tube, I tried Charlies broom tip just to see. Tried with tapered end, straight end, and with some wadded up duct tape. Didn't work, but after I took the damper out (with air impact) I could see the hex part was very shallow. Had I done a very short steep taper it might have worked fine. 3. Once apart, the proper tool is obvious. As suggested, the hex nut is the ticket. 22 mm is correct, .866 inches across flats. In US, a 9/16 nut is odd, but available, and is .875 across flats. I welded it to about 18 inches of 1/2 inch OD stainless hydraulic tubing, and welded a cheap 3/8 drive socket to the other end. This works great for the final, proper tool to reassemble and tighten. (And I will get to use it all again when I get the proper seals.) I will attch picture below. 4. Also shown is a tool for the TY175 dampers. These have an oval cast end 5/16 across flats, but longer in the other direction, so a socket won't fit. I took a 5/16 8 point socket (for square head set screws), and ground out the sides as shown. Use a 12 inch extension and it works great. 5. The outside hex on a 13/16 spark plug socket is almost 22 mm, but appeared to be a tight fit into the damper rod. I could envision getting it stuck in the rod and pulling off the socket extension. Then there would be parts down hole blocking getting the proper tool onto it, so I would not go that route. However, sticking a 22 mm nut halfway into a stadnard 22 mm socket (with tape or somthing behind and around it) would I think work for those without a welder. Or put a couple nuts jammed onto a bolt with the proper head size, and put a socket on the double nuts. Response to others Q's: 300 cc each, 10w from the manual, although I have been using 7.5 in the stock forks. (Jon Stoodleys recommendations involves closing off some holes. I have not tried, but have heard good things. I don't know how that affects oil.) Use the baby bottle as measuring and fills easy with the clipped off nipple end. I also changed the bottom stripped out philips drain screws to 4 mm stainless socket head screws. I used to have an electric impact gun. Worked OK for light loads but not for serious heavy stuff. Would be great on a mc project. Too much power can make mistakes expensive there. Another must have tool is the hand impact tool: turn it, hit the end with hammer to drive the bit inward and turn the philips screws. I have ground the back sides of philips tips to bite into the screws better and only use that tip for removing old chewed up screws. tks to all kcj sorry, pic is 370k, I will have to have my son change format some how. and add later. kcj

TY250/350 Monoshock: Loosening the bottom bolt, on the outside bottom of fork leg, also requires holding the inside damper rod, apparently at the bottom of the inside of damper rod. Top of damper rod doesn't have any visible hex ID. Manual and parts book refer to a special Yam tool part number (blank stare at the local dealer) but no idea of what it grabs into. Is it a hex, square, a 4 prong, or what? If I knew what size and shape I can weld something onto a long rod and reach down in there. Catch 22: can't get it apart without knowing what it looks like, can't see it until its apart. Any ideas or size and shape help? tks, kcj

Jay: I have used tubeless tires on tube rims ok, but I was hoping for an easy way to use tubeless tires. Just to avoid using the beadlocks and fighting with tubes. tks, kcj

Disconnect the kill switch wire right at the coil to make sure there are no grounds in the wiring to the switch. Check the points, gap and clean. Need a flywheel puller but its normal Yamaha threads (26 mm? x 1.0 x LH threads) I think the condensor is soldered in. Try the other stuff first. Check plug wire end. Replace the plug. the easy cheap stuff first. Both of my 175 start very easy, they normally have a good strong spark. k

are you running tubeless radials on back? If so, on tube type rim, or relaced a new rim on there? ah yes, the Combat Wombat of the past memories. . . . k

I can relate to that, no dipstick, so I put a short white paint mark on the outside of case at the level I want. Eventually it becomes habit, oil should be xx distance down on the 'straw' but the paint mark helps until then. and I do the 175 with diptsick, not screwed in also. That was traditional japanese, I just assumed it was correct. k

to the US riders: We are headed down the same path if we don't get more politically involved. I am all for tthe environment ( I used to wilderness canoe trip in the BWCA), but I respect it not worship it unused. There are honest environmentalists I know, and of course the nut cases. Unfortuantely, the nut cases are intensely active. .02 kcj

if his avatar gf is there, why are you looking for speed channel or texas trials?

I have used solvents, heated int he barbecue grille, used the frayed cable and drill motor, but the best has been oxy acetylene torch on medium heat until it gets hot, then excess oxygen into the pipe. It burns it way back (up) slowly and does a great job. I think it was a tech article here or TA that I learned it from. HOWEVER, big warnings: Mine were steel, I would NOT do an alum muffler that way. Aluminum doesn't change color with temperature, just would suddenly melt into a puddle. Takes about 30 minutes of constant attention, watching the color of hot spot and adjusting O2 levels. Not for the faint of heart or those in a hurry. kcj

Several variations: 1. By getting you to give him (9500 - 5200) the 'balance', the driver goes away with the bike, and 4400, and a week later you find out the certified check was either on a non existant company, or it is a forgery of a legitimate company. You are out not only a stolen bike, but 4400 more than that! 2. sometimes they ask for info about bank accounts. 3. Often the 'check' is for say 5500, small enough that you pay out in cash, not another certfied check. You still lose bike and 300. 4. sometimes just a simple bounced forged check for 5200. They get the bike. 5. I will get my client to send you the check for 9500. Upon receipt, you wire me say 3500, retaining 900 until shipping is arranged. I will trust you to hold that until my shipping company contacts you. This may take about 3 weeks or so. Pay the shipping company, estimated at 700, and send me the rest back. Here, the shipping company never shows up, seller keeps the bike, but takes 3 weeks until he realizes the check bounced, but his account wired out 3500. I had read about these on snopes, or scambusters or somewhere. shortly thereafter, I had a TY350 (in parts) somewhere advertised for $500 or so. I got 3 emails from themost obscure African countries about that it was such a collectible find, he had been searching for a year to find one, etc. etc. The line was so thick to appeal to a sellers GREED! BTW, never once did anyone ask for a picture, or ask for any info on condition, etc. This one was version 5 above. I just can't imagine any high government official on a ratty old TY350 in Africa. But, now my Nigerian oil buddy. . . . . . How do we get on these lists? kcj

then after its apart, cut some notches on one end of the spacer, aobut 1/2 wide and 1/2 inch deep, or drill a cross hole through the spacer someo where along the way. next time at least, you have something to use a drift punch on to get them out. k

Erik: I'd vote for Bob. Might be same seal source, but at least I know who dealing with. sorry bob, didn't even think of you when I posted the above. k

an acquaintance who road races swears by them. They bleed brakes every day. I have no expereince. My first thought is that the reverse bleeding direction seems easier and better on the front. ON the back, I'd like to hear others experience. k

175 by chance? just searching for sources for my sons seals. Its an odd size, I think 40.5 mm od or something. I ordered a (40 and a 41?) through TCM mostly taiwan sourced but avaliable at most bearing houses. They were about $2 each, but I have not yet tried to fit them in place. I suspect will be a dead end. local Yam said NLA, but I question that. I know the dust boots are NLA. there is an ebay guy selling seals, about $13 a pair. search on trials, he has TL125 seals listing always going ad nauseum. I have some TY250 seals from them, have not installed yet. Price is reasonable enough My concern is not fit or sealing ability, but how much stiction will there be. kcj

If it sat for a while it might have lots of rust in the insides. The only benefit to two stoke mung slime is that it keeps the inners from rusting. 4 strokes often get rust in when sotred a long time.

lhe 200 is known to rattle apparently. Thats one of the reasons I never bothered looking into the cases on this one. Started sounding loose about 2 years ago. 14 yr old daughter rides, so not ridden hard. Several knowledgeable people listened to it, don't worry its a 200 they all do that. Sounded like piston slap a bit, went away when warmed up. so I ignored it. got worse, so last season I pulled top. Only .0005 over the specs, but figuring I have limited experience with the new stuff, I put in a piston set. No change. Rode another half season, then really noticeable over the winter here. Did cold temp startups (0 F?) have an effect, or was it just coindidence? so anyway, in prepping for this season, I noticed it sounded different when tilted over to one side. pulled off the covers and voila! Otherwise its a great bike. Granted its 4 years old, and time moves ahead, but if you can get one cheaply I'd do it. Very smooth engine and easy to handle Novice Intermediate stuff, especially tight corners and clutching. Power is only an issue for me on big hills, as I can't do any big steps anyway. I much prefer it over riding my sons's 270. 270 has more snap and power, and the 200 doesn't get the lower riders in trouble. k