kevin j

I spent a year trying to find a front end swap, when the far simpler solution was right in my garage. I fitted the 4 piston caliper, mc, hose from a 2000 gas gas, using a floating bracket on the axle and the torque lug on the leg. I posted pics and full writeup in the past. Works GREAT and took about 4 hours to do. and it can be converted back to drum should I ever want to kcj

Has anyone fitted a later rear wheel to a TY mono? Just for reasons of getting rid of the unobtainable Z spokes, and being able to use a tubless rear tire. Having a disc would be nice, but the drum is ok. I fitted a 2000 Gas Gas front wheel and disc setup to get better brakes. 4 hour job, very easy. Rear, looks ugly to do and lot of fabricating and welding. So, curious if it has been done. kcj

Just to clarify, the drag and pulling through the rear brake is just perceptible, enough to derail me mentally or take points, or cause an occasional stall or skidded wheel, Not like the clutch locks and launches me somewhere. Not directly a safety hazard, just a pain to ride this way. The glue removal will be next. I may also remove two springs, not to make it lighter but to have less pressure on the disc pack, just to try it. Since the hydraulic sideis volume and stroke, the springs only 'should' affect the final pressure needed to move the pressure plate, but if there is still air in the system that would change the compressesion of the air. Just as a test to try. I've bled and bled in so many ways, but will try again. Next winter may try a Surflex clutch pack. Is Putoline available in the US? 75w80 gear oil is a fairly light fluid, about SAE 10-20, but was still too thick. The gear oils have a different rating , they are not an extension of 10-20-30-40 etc. That would be about consistency of asphalt..... I'm old school, on most mc I have I habitually pull into highest g ear, clutch in, rock it to 'break the plates free', then back down to N and kick start. So already doing that. Yes, between being known for carb settings and sticking clutch, people don't know much about Beta around here. Was a very nice and tight machine when I got it. Great quality, expensive parts though. k

I have read the Beta clutch sticky, had already tried about everything there except the glue removal (which will be next when I get back to it) and wondering what else might work. -2003 Beta Rev 3. -Not a slipping problem, but a cold sticking AND a sticking when in operation. Does not fully release consistently, so tight section require some back brake, which is inconsistent. Either drags through and continues some forward motion, or the back brake unexpectedly frees the clutch and puts a sudden anchor to forward motion. -We are at least the third owner, have owned it about 7 years, with almost no use the last three years. Has enough use this year that I don't think storage is an issue. -Plates were in it when we bought it. Ridden for a couple years by middle son at expert club level, but not what I would expect to be abused or past useful life. -Friction plates are just slightly under the 'new' values of .105 thick. IIRC, they were about .100 to .105. Plates not obviously worn or glazed or damaged. Steel discs look very good, no heat or wear marks. -I have not specifically removed the glue between plates, but I don't recall there being unusual junk there. From the 'old days' I know that if the depth of the grooves in clutch plates gets too shallow, it will be sticky. So I was looking that over and nothing sticks out in my memory. That will be the next try when I get back to it. In the last year or so I have done the following: -Smoothed the tabs on all plates with file, both the outer tabs on aluminum friction discs and inner splines on steel discs. -Basket edges look pretty good, no significant wear spots. I did not file or disturb as I assumed it is anodized. -Noticed that the innermost friction plate does not bear solidly against the surface of the inner hub. The thickness of the outer tabs is such that the inboard face of the tab hits the inside of the basket before the friction surface makes solid contact with the metal of the driven center hub. The plates makes contact, just not what I would consider a solid connection when I push the plate inboard with my fingers and try to rotate the inner and outer hubs as though slipping the clutch. My thought is that there may be a VERY slight amount of deflection there, thus adding spring to the motion and not making a crisp disengagement. I was tempted to dremel off the inboard side of the tab (does not need to be precise, just to get some clearance) but decided not to experiment until I had other opinions. -Assembled with punched rounded edges to the outside (rounded edges presenting in the release direction), then tried to the inside. No real difference. -Shimmed the release bearing for the desired .016 to .024 inches. Was originally at about zero clearance (accumulated plate wear?). Tried at .010 and .020 travel before contact, thinking that running it tight would give very slightly more travel to the release. By the way, I bought a shim kit at Grainger, part number 3L739, $12.92, that is 1.00 OD, .625 ID (original shim was .592 ID, so very close), with 19 pieces ranging from .003 inches to .125 inches. Works well. I also tried slightly different ball between the push rods: original is .235 inches diameter, I tried .010-.015 under to get more clearance (because I had the ball in the bearing bin, but didn't have the shims yet). Went back to the stock ball. -I have tried the recommended 500 cc of 75w90 gear oil, too thick. Have tried 5w30 motor oil, 0-30 synthetic mobil 1, ATF ( a couple years back and I think it was too abrupt but still sticky). I have tried the blue GM AutoTrac fluid in other clutches, but not this Beta. I have tried 500 cc and 400 cc of oils. -Thoroughly bled the system, from bottom with syringe, from top with master cylinder, with MityVac pulling vaccum, upright or on its side, every way I could think of to remove air. Beyond the glue thing, which will be next, is there a 'real fix' with a slightly larger master cylinder? I know with the Gas Gas of a few years back there were common changeouts to about a .5mm larger master cylinder for similar issues. (I ended up getting a really cheap OEM cylinder to use on same son's older GG270 where it worked just fine.) tks, kevin

send me a PM with email address and you shall have. k

Probably a knockoff with domino just printed on it. Can you make your own inner cable using a bicycle shifter cable wire? I did many of those for TY80 throttle cables to make them softer for small kids to pull. Make a solder dip pot out of a copper pipe cap, don't put the cable directly into a flame or it oxidizes and overheats quickl;y.

did you get a manual from your other post? I have a PDF of manual and PDF of parts lists gasket sets and many parts from Dennis Kirk.com Veshrah gasket sets from TY were available, but not listed, last time I bought was several years back. from YZ and GT fit and were about $10 US, but I think the head gasket had to be punched out for bolt holes. Oil pump, yes, remove it completely with gear. Build your own cable with a generic housing (Dennis Kirk also) and a bicycle shifter cable inner wire. That is quite a bit softer and more flexible, and easier for daughter to use. GT80 is similar I think the cases were wider on one side so shifter is different. Heads were different, one used nuts, one used cap nuts deep into the cylinder. Some GT80 has 5 speed transm, but no advantage to change. The ratios all the same, just a higher gear on top. TY issue was the gap between gears, not the overall ratio, so the 5 speed would not help. I had several TY80 as kids grew. sold off my remaining TY80 stuff this winter as my daughter is now 23 and in law school, middle son 25 and rode some nationals a few years back. My how they grow.

springs might be weak. I bought some YZ plates, I am thinking EBC brand, 10 years ago, because they were quite a bit cheaper. There was an extra plate in the set, the YZ use one more. Seemed to work, but were more grabby. Not a good characteristic for trials. I suspect it was because the goal for motocross was good solid lockup and not slipping under high power conditions and ability to slip or modulate was not a high priority. Would I do it again? Honestly can't recall how greabby they were, just that it was noticeable. Or maybe it was justme. I like the smooth slippy clutch, not the new style quick lockup. Maybe try different fluids.

I have a steel used tank on the classifieds, but it is A model grey and yellow. Rider quality, not show quality. Western Mpls MN. kcj

I think the chris johnson mods takes the pegs down the frame about an inch and forward, not backward. See bruce andersons website, cableone or something like that. He has chris' mods there. I think the TY is already light in front and feels really tall for balance. I have not tried but plan too soon. I did add bar risers, from a guy in Canada, about $85 I t hink, that move the bars forward and up. That helps the feel quite a bit. forward helps as much as up. kcj

I have a 350, which may be totally different, but I trimmed half the ring. Much improved, expecially in overrunning where the momentum used to carry the bike way too far after shutting throttle, but also makes the vibrations and power pulses much more noticeable. I would machine half of it and see if you like it. You can always take off more, but hard to put it back. kcj

http://myworld.ebay.com/allterrainmoto/ they looked interesting so I added to my fav sellers list a couple years ago. Does not have on his store site now, but he does list one for CR Elsinores, so I assume still in the business. kcj

I have heard recommended (I thought it was on here) using super glue, then fine cloth. Sounds like your gouges are bigger than glue, and JB weld may be the best shot. kcj

can you run a reamer through and then press in a composite or brass bushing? I have done that on others. kcj

A dyslexic agnostic couldn't sleep. So he lay awake all night wondering 'Is there a Dog?'

the 4 piston AJP caliper fits easy. I used GG front wheel and caliper. posted info and pics in the past. BruceAnderson had posted the Chris Johnson frame mods, front rake angle, swing arm, rear shock, and foot peg changes. Don't have his website address here.

I've used two of the SM kits. I welded a short length (1/2-5/8 inch long?) of 1/2 inch diameter round rod up and down along the front edge of the bracket over the pedal. Tapped that for M6? and use a short hex head bolt and jam nut. M10 wrench then adjusts the bolt up and down, the head hits the brake pedal and adjusts the height. kcj

put some fuel in the cylinder. if that fires and dies, it is fuel short. Will it start on full choke, then die if you take choke off? that usually means plugged pilot jet. It can be 'temporarily' cleaned from the outside by blowing cleaner back through the pilot jet screw, but that just pushes the junk back into the bowl to come up later. because you found 'blocked' jets, lets assume the crud is floating all over. I would add an inline fuel filter for sure. Clean the tank if any rust is found. maybe Kreme coat the inside if rust is really bad. Throughly clean and blow out all passages in carb. Should not matter that he ran out of fuel, unless he went onto reserve than it draws fuel from a lower point in the tank. Any tank dirct could have been drawn in. More likely, dirt in the refueling can. The fuel bowl has just a screen, I would add an actual filter media in line before the carb. They are pretty durable and simple to work on, you can do it. kcj

yup, gasgas front wheel and 4 piston AJP disk caliper. pics and details posted before.

make sure the master cylinder stroke is correct. If the lever stroke is too short or piston is in too far, it does not allow the bleed port to uncover and allow fluid to return to the reservoir.

I used a 2000 gasGas front wheel, caliper, master cylinder. Made a floating mount bracket for the caliper. took less than a day, and WELL worth it. search for prior posts and pics and dimension dwg of the bracket.. PM me for pics but I won't be at my house for a week or more. kcj

I am thinking the 80's TY250/350 mono was flat on the outboard surface, this seems to have more of a dish or tapered cone to it. from the center to the outside rim.

On some other motorcycles, replacement cases came blank and the numbers had to be stamped in to match the old. Maybe your case was replaced at some time in the past. Here, dumb or not, the title for road registration goes with engine serial number, not frame number like a car. I asked what happens if the engine is ever changed then it would not match the title: 'gee, would anyone ever do that?' and they had no answer. So not sure if that applies to you. kcj

clutch releasing spiral gear and arm are NLA from yam. and they break easily if the chain throws up into the front of the cavity area. push rod was available last time I checked but other parts not. so if you have those, they can be gold.

maybe related: I have a GG 200 with noise. Changed piston, top end, mains, big end is fine. Eventually figured out the crank has axial play in the main bearings and walks left and right on the helical gear spiral as it goes from driving (combustion) to resisting (compression). I have .014 inches of play. So I have to split and take that out with a shim between bearing and crank, or between bearing outer race and casing. Anyway, I say that as I suspect the shim is to take out axial play. Does the 250 have helical gears, or just straight cut? I doubt it is related to aligning the gear drive, as a few thou either way would not matter there. Do you really have 1.5 'MM' of preload, or 1.5 '.001 of inch' ? 1.5 mm is 1/16 inch. That seems totally impossible without destroying the bearings........ If you do have preload of any amount, you may need to increase the gasket thickness between case halves (assuming vertical split)