kevin j

My forum messages now display only one at a time. The threaded outline is oin bottom half of screen. Instead of just scrolling down and read fast, I have to pick each message to display it. I assume it is a setting that has changed somehow. What did I do and how do I get it back to 'normal'? It is probably something really 'doh' simple but I can't find it. tks, kcj

how was the mono fork fitted to the twin shock? complete with triple trees, bolt in, or tubes only? machining required? is the rake and trail ok? I have a TY175 that I was going to fit a 250 twin shock front end because Ihave heard of that modification. the 175 forks are a bit flexible. However, I also have extra mono parts that I just as easily do. Just never thought of it. I know the jump from twin shock 250 to 350 mono was huge step up for me, not because of motor but because of suspensions. I still ride the 350 occasionally, much different than the modern stuff. So putting 350 forks on the 175 might be the ticket, assuming they fit into the 250 triple trees. Also better brakes.... sounds interesting. kcj

Depending on the local club and rules, how serious they are, and if there are higher level lines in the same sections, you might sign up for Novice and ride the Intermediate splits when you think you are capable of it. I do that a lot, take some advanced lines for challenge, but not quite ready for the entire Advanced class. Drives my scores way up, so I am out of the way for the new riders who really deserver the higher finishing spots. But not so intimidating as signing up for the entire next higher class. Otherwise, I'd ride a couple more novice events, until you are confident. At least in our area, it's pretty low key and people don't get concerned about 'sandbaggers'. If they feel you are doing that, the informal ribbing will convey the message.

the TY with electronic ignition was supposed to have that, but apparently not always workihng. If diode fails closed, will pass both ways. 175 with points/magneto though ??? is your timing too far close to TDC?

My dad's old golf cart they used at the farm had forward and reverse, only selected by which way the electric starter turned the engine when it fired up the two cycle engine! The Bult and Monts of the 70's prone to that, stall part way up a hill, roll back, and restart going in the opposite direction. I have never heard of how it happens when kickstarting though, as the engine should only be going one directioin. In theory, the TY250/350mono with electronic ignition was a big improvement over the old spanish stuff. Can't go reverse....NOT! I've had it happen twice, same summer a couple weeks apart, about 3 years back. First time, almost stalled going up a climib, pull clutch, rev a bit, let out clutch, and it shot down the hill 5 ft under power in reverse. It had truly stalled, bumped into reverse, I declutched and reved it up and it went backwards. Thrilling. The second time was more traditional, stalled, rolled back, restarted and just chugged a few times backward before I stopped it. So it can happen, although never before or since. I have no idea why. Timing was fine, actually a bit retarded. kcj

The bar that has several 'teeth' on it like a comb? I've also tried to find. Not many in salvage yards anyway, and what I found the rubber dampers were usually gone. I just went without, but thinking now. Could you take a piece of solid rubber chute lining (like conveyor belting, but no cords in it, it's available up to 1 inch thick) and carve it with the cutoff wheels in a dremel. Nice and slow, and keep it cool. kcj

Not so bad, Run a fish wire through from the back, hook on the hose and pull it through. Can't push it, as I could not find the small opening near the caliper. As I recall, the hard part is turning (rotating like a speedo drive) the hose so the banjo was laying flat compared to rectangular opening. Bleeding it, another story.

Like to get beyond blue jeans and sweatshirts, for something cooler and more freedom of motion. I presently wear HRP (Moose Racing) knee pads under the jeans. Looking for pants with pockets built in for knee pads and a jersey with pockets for elbow pads I am 57, 175 lbs, spandex is NOT an option! Ideas at reasonable prices? tks, kcj

twin shock or mono? If mono, spin off the lower bolt with an air wrench. Or, make a tool like this from tubing and 7/8 inch, 22 mm hext nut welded to end. Insert down into tube from top to hold the damper rod while you use a socket wrench on the bottom outside of leg. Can't recall how post pictures. Basically, I took a 22 mm hex nut wand welded to end of 1/2 inch diamter stainless teel tubing (or rod) about 18 inches long. Then welded a 3/8 drive socket to the top end to accept the ratchet handle. The damper rod has a 12 sided picket on top of it the hex nut fits right into. Alternate, use several hx nuts tacked together and put them in a socket and extensions. Inconvenient, as they can fall out donw in the fork tube.

Broke the lever, aluminum, in the area surrounding the steel pin that if pivots on. Looks like a lack of material and some stress risers in the orignal design. Before I get anew one on order, is there any other model that might fit and be stronger? Barring that, I will have some TIG welder reinforce that area around the bottom.

Not directly applicable, but I fitted a 2000 4 piston gas gas AJP front wheel and rotor and caliper to my TY350 Yamaha. There are pics and more info somewhere on this site, or write me. Exact parts may not work, but the concept of spacing the axle and floating the mounting bracket may work. And parts are far easier to get. I used the mc, hose, caliper and entire front wheel. (they were spare parts I had for other bikes.) It is SO nice. Not so much on strength of brake but precision and consistentcy. With the drums, I never knew if, or when, or hom much force, the brake would give. They were more of a suggestion to reduce speed, rather than a command to stop. k

Don't use WD40 or oil on brake stuff: the seals/o-rings for glycol brake fluid are attacked by oil (and vice versa, nitrile seals are attacked by glycol) Use brake cleaner spray. But, since the front brake is so easy to bleed, I'd strip it all apart and clean and fix it right. I've also had lot of problems if the pads get glycol on them, they are toast. Tried cleaning, sanding, sanding with belt sander, and never get the right feel back. So, I am really careful on bleeding to not leak. Or best yet is pull the pads and put some bad ones in, or some spacers of plastic or masonite. Anyone have easier solutions to that? k

Had the same issue with 2000 GG200, and have two friends with same noise. One is about a 98, and the other is around 2000. Sounded like knock, replaced top end, then found crank moves left and right on the helical gear. On compression stroke it moves one way, then on firing it moves the ot4ehr way. It is not the 'oil hole bearing failure' issue the 200's had. Test: with engine warm, listen to noise, then tilt 45 degrees or more to right, then 45 or more to left. One way it disappears, when the force is overcome by gravity of the crank weight. I think it was tilting left. Crank on mine moved total .010 or more in the ID of the bearing race. Bearing radial is perfect, but concern is of course wearing the crank journal OD. Struggled to find info from dealer, importer, and GG enduro bike dealers, to no avail. Bad new: have to split the cases, replace the bearings. I used GG bearings (expensive, would go industrial supply, but didn't want to change more than one variable at a time) and high temperature (higher than normal working temperature) red loctite on the right side bearing only. Bearing to crank, NOT bearing to case) This is purely opinion, I just wasn't sure if gluing both sides might put some thrust loads on the bearing as the engine heats up. A light press on the left bearing does allow some creep with hot/cold cycles to relieve stresses. MORE bad news: It helped a lot for only a month or two. The noise is back! For now, since it is not ridden too many hours, and ridden mildly (me) I run it. Does notappear to hurt anything, but is embarassing to ride. Don't you ever maintain that thing? Next winter I will split again and look into some sort of spray buildup on the right journal. kcj

yes, they had autolube injection. Pump on right front, tank under left side cover. I have one street legal TY175 with injection, one trials TY with injection removed. Reliability was an issue, weight of pump ant tank of oil, and extra pull of the cables makes throttle not as precise. DON'T use 'any kind of oil'-use a good synthetic two stroke air cooled oil TC-W motor boat oils are for water cooled boats. 4 stroke engine oils have other additives that are detrimental in a two stroke. I run 60:1 in all the aircooled stuff we have, 92 or better gas, and synthetic oil kcj

Thanks alot guys lots of good info. Can I get to the clutch by putting the bike on its side without draining the oil and taking the r/h cover off. You can for working on the clutch itself, but the linkage and spiral gear are on the LH side.

Try a good cleaning first, and good cable lubing. Cable might feel free without load, but bind badly when under load. Have had that many times on vintage stuff. The spiral gear design is susceptible to dirt, and the location, right in front of chain and sprocket, is right inline where the dirt flings into. In the US, the spiral gear is NLA from Yamaha, so it is the weak link in keeping the old TY going. Good actuators are rare to find. I have seen someone weld to the arm and lengthen it, then drill a new hole in case for the cable. Looked cobbled up, and welding onto an NLA part seems risky to me. I'd try the inline EZpull lever box, or the adjustable fulcrum lever and perch. Bob Ginder at B&J has them for full size bikes, I assume they woudl fit the TY80. Also, if the bike is lightly ridden by small kid, take 2 springs out of clutch basket. (Dont' forget where you put them! need to add back later when kid grows and is more aggressive.) I have done that several times on TY80, TY175, and GG200 as kids moved up. Makes softer lever pull for their hands, and slip was not a problem as they don't use max power or tall gears anyway. k

If you pull fully back, release and pull again, does it work? is the rotor disc bent? Bent disc wobbles and pushes the caliper pistons back further than they shold be. Then, too much clearance pad to disc when lever is pulled. Has to move too far, runs out of fluid and master cylinder bottoms out. This is msorelikely with rigidly mounted disc. Or, disc could be much thicker/thinner at spots around the disc. Ride it wihtout touching brake. Stop so wheel is not turning. Pull lever once, release, pull again. If it gets better, you are out of sroke and have to push the pads out more than should be.

There was a guy in Arizona US, company called MarkArt, I think Mark was his first name. He did mugs and T shirts with a trials rider up a large step or log. Black and white outline logo. Can't find easily on google, so don't know if still around. Advertised in Trials Competition paper. kcj

I have seen repros for TY175 and I think also 250a models on ebay US. (also has RL and TL repro seats) kcj

mine isn't cornered allen, it is rounded lobed torx (or an equivalent shape, as I think Torx patents were later). It is 350 though, through the US market, but I would think the same. Well you will know easily enough now by inspection, one of the two choices. kcj

It's a T60 kcj

Torx. I just bought a single 3/8 socket drive Torx bit from tool supply house (Grainger over here) Allen would be risky IMO.

This applies wheen overreving because throttle stuck or down on the ground Yank the throttle cable sideways out of the Domino housing. The cap will pop off, and pulley pop out and may give you enough slack to bring it down in speed. Even with a kill switch, they can overrev and go into glow plug operation, don't need spark. Pulling the cable or plugging exhaust can bring it down in speed enough that the combustion chamber cools and the kill switch has an effect again.

Slamming gears into mesh doesn't make me comfortable about what it does to the transmission. I just do the std Beta drill: Before starting, pull the shifter up into highest gear. Hold clutch lever in, rock bike back and forth until it breaks loose. Shift back down, find Neutral (very important step!), then start the bike. Never bothers the rest of the day, just at first cold startup. I have had older bikes do that when the plats are worn enough to lose the grooves. Then they tend to stick with fluid adhesion. The old, old trick was to file grooves deeper. That's not so good on new style clutchs where the total stack height matters to the operation. I have also replaced plates and found the bike did the very same thing after the new parts. (Have not changed plates on the Beta yet.) So I just get used to the aggravation 30 seconds at first of the day. k