austini

dgshannon if you push an EM there is defiantly more resistance to an ICE bike that's why if, god forbid, you do run out of "go juice" split the chain and push, push push.

Try a 10T/61T mix with pos 3 on the clutch, works for some people.😉

Spent a lot of time in the wet on my epure and haven't experienced any shocking experiences, I was also curious as to why em put a light on the lanyard kill switch when any magnet will work. I am no electrician and any piece of electric string that isn't 12VDC scares the **** out of me, Q: will the fuse fitted on the bike blow if the short is that serious? Could the shock of been through static there's a lot of nylon in riding gear?

fixed regenerative braking is the way to go I find myself using it instinctively even in sections now and it also puts ZZZZZ back in the box.

Hi Jimbo, yes I have resolved my issues well about 99% resolved. My battery guy reconfigured the Neptune differently to the EM BMS so now the solenoid isnt as susceptible to tripping. The Neptune is a great BMS with lots of real time parameters to change on your phone or tablet when the battery is on. The Neptune also does a safer balanced charge so when a cell approaches the desired charge, say 54V it will stop balance then start again until all cells are the same. I can send you some pics if you wish I also have a vid on how it is wired up. My only issues now are: I have a dodgy No6 cell that charges quicker but also discharges quicker than the rest, therefore when the difference is a volt or two below the others the solenoid will start to trip usually after an hour or so of hard riding. Also the wiring harness to the neptune was kinked when installed so sometimes that will play up. I have a new harness on route and I already have a few spare cells so I will fix that in the new year. I have a EM epure Race arriving next week so my interest in the 5.7 might wain a little

Hi everyone, I have the opportunity to purchase a very original full size Godden chrome framed Majesty in Australia I have been waiting a long time to get a Majesty 250 or 320 but the chances of finding one of those in Aus is nil so a good clean 200 might be my only choice. I have had many TY's in the past and find both the 250 and 175's have their virtues and their faults, although i'm 100kgs I can ride both competitively and we don't ride many hill climbs here in Aus so the little 175 is not to underpowered. Questions for the brains trust: was the 200 just a bored out 175 or did Shirty do any porting and jetting etc:? Is there any real changes in power between a standard TY175 and a 200? I believe the swinging arm was made slightly longer on the Majesty similar to current Ty175 recommendations is this so or with the other majesty frame configurations does it handle a lot better that a TY175? I know the 250 Majesty is a leap forward from an original 250 is this the case for a 200? Thanks for any assistance you may have.

For the price they are awesome bikes, negatives: down on power, tyres are crap need changing to a X11 also the rears tubed, front header pipe a little vulnerable but mines been converted so ok now. rear brake lever is crap. positives: price, electric start, easy to ride without a clutch, for a lower grade rider it will save you heaps of points over a Factory 300, if your ability level is a 1M log its just as easy to get over as on a 250 2st. Just add petrol and away you go.

Hi I have a specialist looking at my battery however he would like a schematic of the wiring inside a EM 5.7 battery. I'm getting conflicting information on the exact makeup of the battery, has the battery 13 cells only, 13 cells with a 14th cell that controls the relay or 14 X 4V cells with the 1st cell also controlling the relay? This Battery has had a Neptune BMS fitted that although very clever it does keep on tripping the solenoid regardless off the multitude of settings and parameters I have tried to resolve the issue. I have decided to have a more basic BMS fitted but unfortunately the wiring is a bit hit and miss at the moment hence the request for a detailed schematic.

Hi, recommendation for the best C15T Sprocket combination for trials use, no road work mainly tight and twisty stuff standard C15T rear wheel.

Hi all, couple of questions I have a 62 C15T, is there such a beast as a 20inch front Trials tire still being produced? Also it has a very tired monobloc should I refurbish it and buy a new slide, gaskets etc: or bite the bullet and buy a new one for 165quid.

I use a guard on the throttle side of my sidecar outfit as a lot of 2M sidecar gates have a nasty habit of having a tree or 2ft rock stuck right in the middle of them, square peg round hole syndrome usually results in a lot of RH scraping to achieve the aim. If you saw the damage on the guard and think of the damage that would of been inflicted on my fingers and gloves its a wise investment

Very capable and under rated bike, things to check: condition of the frame around the footrests they can be prone to bending. Electrics (CDI unit) mine did go and needed replacing so check for a good spark. The rear of the airbox isn't the best so check that it is fit for purpose. Enjoy!

Any pictures Claude?

Awesome! starting from scratch you have done a great job, now to get out there and scratch it....errr enjoy it. When your learning just getting to a section is an achievement so getting from one end to the other of a solo section should keep you busy for a season or two.

So no words of wisdom from our sidecar fraternity, I would of thought any advise to assist and newbies or perspective newbies might have been a useful. I know when we started the first few months was defiantly a period when wondered what we had done. so if anyone out there know of any training sources please pass them on.