beta rider

Hi, I’m about to buy a 4rt. How are people cleaning the fuel injection throttle body. Is it similar to a carb where you use carb cleaner or an airline to clean it out after a ride?

Help with my front forks! I have a Sherco 08 and oil appearred to be leaking from the oil seals on both forks. The oil was weaping onto the upper forks when they were compressed and would run down one of the lower fork legs if the bike was left for any length of time under its own weight. A pool of fork oil was appearring under one of the froks on my garage floor. I have changed the oil seals on both forks using good quality seals. Oil is still leaking from the seal area on the forks. I left the bike overnight after changing both seals to find oil still leaking down one of the lower fork tubes. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

I have a 250 Sherco and I'm looking to change the front fork spring to a slightly stronger one. I'm happy enough with the compression damping but I'm looking for a slightly stronger spring to set the front fork sag to the correct level. I'm 13 St and cannot set the sag to the recommended level (1/6th of the full travel with me on the bike) even with the pre-load adjuster screwed right down. I'm using 5 wt fork oil and thought about going up to 7.5 wt, however this will presumably just make the fork compression and rebound slightly firmer but do nothing for the sag level. I've also considered making my own pre-load spacer for inside the fork tube out of some strong upvc piping or something similar to compress and strengthen the spring which should get the sag to the correct level. However I'm then overly compressing the spring which reduces the static sag to less than the recommended level (about 10mm). Looking through internet sites, there is a multitude of aftermarket fork springs available to suit almost any size. The Sherco fork spring is linear (i.e the coils are evenly spaced) but I've also seen variable rate springs, where the damping becomes progressively firmer at the end of the forks compression which seems to make more sense. I would rather order and fit the spring myself than send the whole fork off to a suspension tuner to keep the cost down. Anyway, my question is does anyone know the spring rate (Nm) of a standard Sherco fork spring or even a normal trials spring. It would be a handy starting point to look for other spring options. Thanks in advance.

Hello, I had exactly the same problem with my Sherco. I found it impossible to compress the spring while the bike was standing upright. By laying the bike on its side, it gives you more leverage and it becomes pretty simple. Good luck.

Help needed! I disconnected my rear brake master cylinder (the part connected to the frame - not the reservior) to fit a pair of new carbon frame gaurds. To be honest I'm a bit disappointed with the gaurds - the master cylinder holes had to be filed out to make it fit as they were out of line etc and the air box cover certainly does'nt fit as it moves the rubber air box to carb hose out of line. On reassembling the bike with the frame guards in place the master cylinder appears slightly out of line compared to the brake pedal piston. I've had a good look and this appears to be a manufacturing tolerance in the cylinder and has probably always been there. After bleeding the rear brake I have lost the free play in the first 5 mm of the pedals movement. The pedal is slack and has simply dropped down the 5mm, although it can be lifted up by hand. Also the pedal is slow to return after the brake is depressed. Having said all that the effectiveness of the brake is still pretty good. Immediately after the installation I depressed the brake pedal and it completely failed to return to position. The piston in the master cylinder appearred to be stuck and the only way I could free it was to force the rear brake pads apart. Any ideas how I return the brake pedal to its normal position and return its movement to what it was before? I've tried bleeding the brake until I'm pulling my hair out and I dont think its air in the system. Thanks.

Can anyone give advice on the best fork oil weight for my 07 Sherco. I'm about 13 St and considering probably 5 or possibly 7.5 Wt. My Sherco manual advises SAE 4 (which I presume is 4 Wt for the light weight Spainards and seems unobtainable over here). Does anyone change their oil weight depending on the time of year i.e lighter oil in the winter? Thanks.

Sorry! I will learn to type property and finish this post! Under section 59 of the Police Reform Act 2002, a police officer in uniform may give you a warning if 1/ the driving of your vehicle is likely to cause harassment, alarm, distress 2/ you a guilty of careless driving OR 3/ you are driving on ANY land without the land owners SPECIFIC permission. If you are given another warning within a 12 month period then your bike can be uplifted by a contractor employed by police and stored by them. It CANNOT be immediately crushed and you dont pay a 'fine' to have it returned, however you will pay the cost of removal and storage (as mentioned about

As mentioned above under section 59 of the police reform act 2002 you may be given a warning by a police officer in uniform if :- 1/You drive your vehicle in a manner likely to cause harassment, alarm, distress

After happily owning three successive 250cc Beta Rev3's, I'm seriously considering a switch to a 2007 Sherco to try a different bike for this year. I normally ride the clubman course at my local club events and have found my 250 beta to have more than enough power. I was planning to buy a 250cc Sherco, but have been warned against this by some Sherco owners and my local dealer who all state the 250 Sherco has a harsh power output. I have then been advised to purchase a 290 which I understand has smoother low end power. Can any Sherco owners give advice? I have noticed very few 250cc Sherco's for sale second hand. Do most riders purchase 290's for their smoother power? I will attempt to test ride the bikes before I buy, however any help in the meantime would be appreciated.

Does anyone know any practice areas around Newcastle, apart from warden law? If not are there any clubs in the area who have their own land to practice on? Thanks

Thanks! Thats exactly what had happend. The pin had moved out of its retainer during cleaning and was preventing the carb body from sealing with the float bowl.

Help required. I've just finshed cleaning the carb on my 04 rev3 by removing it and cleaning with carb cleaner/blowing jets etc. On replacing it into the frame petrol leaks from the carb body where the float bowl joins with the main carb body (it does'nt leak from the atmospheric tubes/over flow). I presume the gasket needs replacing. Could there be any other reason? I've taken the carb apart twice before (without changing the gasket and i've had the bike from new). Do the gaskets normally need replacing this oftern? If it is the gasket does anyone know where they can be bought (in time to ride on the weekend! Otherwise as a last resort for one trial only could anything else be used like gasket sealant? Thanks.

i've noticed the inside of my 04 rev 3's airbox seems to have some of the filter oil caught in the bottom. I think this is as a result of washing the bike (with a hose pipe) and water running down the petrol tank and into the airbox (and washing some of the filter oil from the element). I'm going to remove the airbox and carb to clean them both. Is its necessary to remove the rear wheel and rear part of the silencer to take the airbox out? It appears very difficult otherwise. Also I bought the bike new and Lampkins had installed silcone sealant near to where the front of the airbox meets the frame. I presume this stops mud etc from spraying onto the airbox. This seal however does seem to stop any water draining away from the airbox when the bike is being washed and hence finding its way inside. Does anyone ever remove it and is it relly necessary?

There's a trials practice area at the carting centre at Warden Law in Sunderland. It quite good if your beginning. It costs

Can anyone give any guidance about setting my 2004 Rev 3's front and rear suspension? I'm about 13 stone and have set the front pre load as per the user manual guidance. I've set the front rebound adjustment at 15 clicks which I believe is mid range. I've set the rear adjustment mid range as well. Does anyone know how much pre load should be in the rear shock spring for my weight?

Thanks very much! I'll give that a try.

Whats the best way to maintain my beta carb? After having taken it off how do I clean it properly and is it necessary to do this every time the bike is used and cleaned? I always clean the air filter but is it also necessary to clean out the air box. If so how oftern is it necessary to do so?

I require some advice! I own a 2004 rev 3 which I have owned since new and have used about 12 times. While I was out practicing the bike died and I later found it would'nt produce a spark. I've tried all the obvious things like changing the spark plug and checking electrical connections. I've contacted Lampkin imports and he has sent me a new CDI unit and stator plate to swop with the ones on my bike under warranty. Having removed the flywheel and changed the stator can anyone gave advice on how to set the ignition timing? I presume it is via the small hole on the fly wheel and stator plate. Thanks, A frustrated beta rider.