neo

It's the same in Aus with Ethernol. Not mentions on the specs but I'd guess that Ethernol would have similar effects to Alcohol on the seals......What the hell are Sherco playing at At wholesale prices nitrile (as the main seals) must have saved Sherco all of $10!!! But an alternate theory might be that Sherco planned it this way.....know what I mean!!! I so glad I went out and bought my own seals Best of balance. Neo

Errr.....I'll show you confusion I was fixing my sons Scorpa 4Tricks yesterday (Lifan....Honda copy engine) and removed an identical colour, outer case, seal to that from the kick-start shaft. I just can't see those Chinese engine manufactures using viton on a kickstart seal. So if colour is anything to go by I'd bet your seal is not viton. Cope, I had another look at the seals that came off my Sherco 250. They are defiantly BLACK but they've gone a bit grey on the outside...from the heat I'd guess. Marking are TTO DO1.4 5 TC 25 40 7 Let us know what you uncover. Best of balance. Neo

Hey Cope, There you go....underestimating the the WD again!! See my old Thread "Just Fixed One And Then What Happens" Page 5 Post #65 Best of balance. Neo

Hey Ham, I think you'll find that they are actually the the same person.....but the photos were taken at different times of the day!! Now.....where's my white stick gone to!!! Best of balance. Neo

It's official then ..... Never mind the pay....even McDonalds started with a single hamburger Best of balance. Neo

Hi Gents, More recently the clutch on our 125 has been slipping....But as everything looked good I couldn't figure out why. So with nothing else to go on I decided to do the Silent Blocks and rivets. And on the recommendation of a local motor bike shop I took the clutch basket and Clutch pinion to the a local car brake shoe relining place, because the motor bike shop told me they have the best machine to press down the new rivets....They made a smashing job of this and the pinon is very tight on the basket now....no play at all. But to to my amazement, when I put the whole thing back together again today the clutch was working and gripping fine and the clutch feels lighter too.....go figure that??? Best of balance. Neo

Hmmmm...."Witch Doctor Tech" ...... I like that name Cope ......it has more of a ring to it than "nutter" Besides do you have any solid evidence that a Witch Doctor didn't ever cure anyone? Best of "wolla wolla tomba tamba yeeka!! ". Neo

Ouch!!! OK totally understood Best of balance. Neo PS I think I miss read your punch line above.....But either way I'll send your regards to Monica

Ahhh....English humor ....one of the reasons I emigrated to Australia So from the method you are describing it's better to put all that stress through all those gears in the the gear box to undo the clutch nut. But I still don't see how this would hold the Primary Pinon as the clutch would slip (assuming the plates are in). Honestly Ham try the small chunk of wood next time (it gets no where near the tang). You need something a lot fatter than a lolly pop stick but apart from that there's little to go wrong.....And even if you did use something too thin it would just pass between the two pinons without harming anything. I believe that just because something is "the right tool" does not mean it's the best tool. It just means its the tool that most people are using. Best of balance. Neo

Hey Ham.....you've lost me here....could you please explain what this tool is and how it hold the the main pinion and turns the nut at the same time? I know what you're saying but I've used a small peace of wood as a jam a few times now. The teeth tend to bite into the wood and that spreads the load down into the teeth. And I've not seen a single mark on the the teeth while using this method. Best of balance. Neo

Sorry gents but Sherco go to the trouble of making the gasket travel all the way to the end of that broken bits line and the side cover has the same line in it. So I'm sure it's much more important than your'e thinking. shercoman, I believe your going to have a dam hard time undoing that primary pinion nut without the clutch pinion and a jam bit in place. I did that same job only 5 weeks ago so I fairly sure on this. Go for 2 jaw puller (because you won't believe what I used to remove that pinion ) But the clearance behind that pinion is very tight so a small puller made of flat bar (with right angled ends) would be best. Just tighten-and-tap, tighten-and-tap (with a very small hammer) as you go. Best of luck. Neo

What type of Impact driver have you ordered? I have an automotive 12v electric one. It's actually for removing wheel nuts but I find it perfect for working on the bike. It just not powerful enough to shear a good size bolt. And takes some time to tighten up to the really tight settings. You will need one to get that clutch nut off...there's no way round it. Believe it or not I made one out of a peace of 6mm hardboard (ply would also do).....I can post up some details if you're interested? And it's easy to make if you've worked with wood before. You'll also need to jam a small chunk of wood between the main pinion and the pinion to hold them while you use you impact driver. But even with the nut off the main pinion can be very hard to remove. I have a trick for this too but it would be hard to explain without photos and I'm not in a position to take the side cover off of my Sherco at the moment. All said you might want to consider taking your bike to a local motorbike shop and get them to remove the clutch basket, main pinion and pull out the main seal for you?? Best of balance. Neo

Probably stuck behind the main pinion messing up the main bearing seal Good thread guys ....sorry it's taken me so long to catch up with it. At times I've run both my 125 and my 250 without a crank case breather tube and never saw a single drop of oil come out that way. If it were my bike I wouldn't be closing that case unit the 1cm bit has been welded up and the main bearing seal has been replaced. The main pinion is hard to get off but the seal is easy to get out with a seal hook tool. Best of balance. Neo

Hi shercoman, If you use the plastic bowl it will fit without filing. But it will fit a little easier if you file a mm or two off of the the bowl overflow vent lug...underneath the bowl.....you'll know what I mean when you get the bowl. Do not file the plastic (fake) bowl nut as that will weaken the bowl. And if you twist the carb just slightly anti-clockwise in the rubber block the nut should not touch the gear case. In my experience, if you secure the carb all the way into the rubber manifold the bowl/vent/lug will always rub against the gear case....But after you have fitted the carb you can slide a thin coin in under the bowl vent/lug and that will stop the gear case wear. Best of balance. Neo PS...And after riding for some time now with my OKO26.....I'm not missing my 28mm Keihin one little bit

<Where do I get one?> I only know of a place in Asia...I can PM you a link if you're interested? <How much do they cost?> $11 plus postage. <What are they made from?> Plastic....that's about the extent of my knowledge of materials. <They any good?> I think so.....quite tough but you mustn't over tighten the case screws. The seals can swell...see my "OKO 24 test" <Do they have the part that needs ground off? My guess here is yes.> It does not HAVE to be ground off....(that's just a great mod that Cope's working on). But a hand file will easily file down a small ridge that's on the underside of the bowl (where the overflow tube comes out)....that would be advisable. Best of balance. Neo

Hi All, I'm coming back to visit my home land. It's funny but when I lived in the UK Trials was just something I saw on the telly on a Saturday morning, when I was bored. But now it's everything to me. I'll be there the first two weekends in Nov (1st/2nd and 7th/8th). I'll be hanging out around the South and Western sides of the M25 and I was wondering if there are any Trials events (indoor, outdoor or private) I could go a see? Please let me know if you have any suggestions? ....and you're welcome to drop me a PM too. Best of Balance. Neo

Hi Cope, I haven't set the 125 (with it's clear bowl) to 21mm yet. But you can see an example of a 19mm float height in this old photo of mine. I've never noticed a higher or lower level from this.....but it's a bit hard to see when I'm standing on the pegs Best of balance. Neo

Hi Bostit, Sorry for the late response.....here's my photo and you can see that this float is set to about 22mm. You can remove the choke or just hang it off the edge of a table....The angle is not critical...just rest the outlet and top on the table....it doesn't really matter if the cap is on or not. Best of balance. Neo

That awesome stuff Cope Bur can you patronize me a bit this time .......Can you also test your Carb with that second vent, you've drilled out, blocked off.....As crazy as it sounds I seriously believe you won't need it there. And can you give us the details of how you drilled out the top vent and fitted that vertical tube? And also how you removed the bowl overflow tube? Best of luck with the testing. Neo

By the way. I double tested my the 21mm float height yesterday by letting the front wheel drop down a good size rock, then while holding my brakes and balance, I bounced the front suspension a few times over the 30seconds or so I held the bike there. The OKO must have been horizontal during this time but the engine tone did not change one bit. I then let it roll onto the flat without throttle and waited again....no change...the mix was totally unaffected. The last test needs to be a long high hill climb....I have a midsized one (about 50m or so) near me but I'll have to ask someone else to try a really high one sometime.....Now where can I find someone that likes running out of fuel 2 thirds up a steep 100m climb Best of balance. Neo

Hi Bostit, Yes and yes to both of your questions ...sounds like you've already worked it out.... I'll still try to post up a photo this weekend. Because I couldn't believe how hard it was to find information on the web about this. Also, try to make sure that both floats are at the same level before you set the height (if that makes sens). This needs to be done with great care. And at no time apply weight to that float needed...because the neoprene tip is easily damaged. The safest way really is to remove the pin and floats, then adjust the metal tongue bit by bit. Best of balance. Neo

Hi Cope, When I had my 2002 290 I played around with the timing a lot. But what I found with the 290 was the power delivery, although softer low down, was inconsistent mid to high range. As you say the kick back on the 290 is enough to break your foot. But it's not so bad on the 250. As timing, port timing and flywheel weight are so tightly entwined I feel it's best to leave that to Sherco. And I really like the way the 250 revs up so I would not want to change that. Carbs (well OKO's anyway) are cheap and easy to work on. And have a broad range of effects on an engines performance. So that has been my primary focus to date. Well that's my story and I'm sticking to it Best of balance. Neo

Hi Bostit, This is all I can show you at the moment. But it'a pretty useless really I'll try and get some photos at the weekend and post them up. Best of balance. Neo

Hi Cope, I did run the Boyseen reeds with the Keihin 28 too....just for a few days....it was a bit smoother but not really that big a deal (to me). The effect the OKO26 has had is far more than the Boyseen Reeds. I'm running stock timing and everything else. Your OKO24 mods sound interesting.....but while your at it can you lower external drag coefficient of the carb!!!......I like my Trials bikes to cut the air as smoothly as possible Let us know how you go. Best of balance. Neo

Sorry Cope...I forgot to cover your question.... No none of the overflow tubes are blocked off...But I'm sure you can see from the Photo that the OKO's only have one high tube on the exhaust side. To cope with the heat one might need to implement my now patented "Spring Trick" ....illustrated on my Keihin photo, below. Also, Lowbrow, That black gadget is my fuel line.....Float must be set at 45 degrees ...no other method will work. Best of balance. Neo