neo

Hi All, I was just wondering if products like Durafix could be used to weld up an exhaust box that has be cut oupen for repacking? http://www.durafix.co.uk/ What do you think? Best of balance. Neo

Oh dear...so that's the gossip then. Best of balance. Neo

Does anyone know what's happening with the GG4T? It just seems so quite (not the sound of the bike!) ...if GasGas are going ahead with this bike surely we'd be hearing something by now? I notice that the GG UK website does not show one but the GG Aus Website does??? If you have information or know where I can read more on this bike please let me know? Best of balance. Neo

Yep...I've been testing it for a few days now and it's working well. I haven't blocked up the overflow as such. Just in case it does help with the pressure equalisation I've just taken a small length of clear tube and pointed it straight up. The tube just fills with fuel to the same height of the pipe inside the bowl and stays that way. So I'll monitor what happens after I "drop/fall off" the bike (a few more times!) to see if there are any ill effects this way. Interesting, I was reading that Japanese Carbs must have bowl overflows to cover the event of faulty float vale flooding (as you said trialsnutterman).....And it looks like they serve no other purpose. The other thing I did was to take both breather tubes and loop them over the carb then down to the back of the bash plate. And to minimise the chance of fuel moving too slowly through these tubes I have run smaller (short length) tubes into (pushed inside for 3 cm) larger (long length) tubes.....And she's running like a dream this week :-) I have run small full length tubes down behind the bash plate in the past but this had problems. The new setup keeps the Carb breathing (clean air), the bike clean (free from fuel spillage) and must save petrol too...So I'm really happy so far. Thanks for the pointer trialsnutterman Best of balance. Neo

Hmmm...... It's still dripping, just very slowly.....looks like I need to buy a new cap..... Thanks gents. Best of balance. Neo

Hi trialsnutterman, Oh I get it now...thanks for clearing this up. I put the right hand side pipe inside a spring. It stops the pipe kinking and dissipates the heat so the pipe doesn't melt it. http://www.trials.com.au/phpBB3/viewtopic....ilit=PWK#p11369 BTW, the 24mm OKO I have on our 125 Sherco has a pipe from the top corner of the float bowl up to the outlet (reed side) of the carb. And this carb dose not drip at all from the bowl overflow. Best of balance. Neo

What are you on about? Neo

Good idea Best of balance. Neo

The radiator was not drained or topped up during the frame swap. But one thing I did recall was the overflow tube was previously routed in a way that made it kink near the spout. I checked my other bike and it was also routed in this way, with that kink. So just for the hell it I routed the tube the old way and hey presto the drips have now stopped...go figure that!?! Best of balance. Neo

This is interesting information trialsnutterman although I don't know why you would bung these up when there main purpose is to equalise air pressure in the carb. In other words they're allow the float bowl chamber to breath in rather than out. Maybe it's best put tubes on these vents then loop the tubes over the top of the carb so it cannot overflow easily. But can breath (suck) back any split fuel. Might try this myself Best of balance. Neo

You'd be buying a thoroughbred bike with the very latest of engines. So if your looking for a low cost solution I can't see how you can beat this deal. This is Sherco trying to destroy Xispa's (new copy cat Spanish/Chinese manufacture) market before they even get going.....So take full advantage of that while you still can. Let us know what you think of it once you've ridden it. Best of balance. Neo

The quality of the OKO is lower than the Kiehin....but not by much. All parts (except for the slide) are interchangeable. Jetted right (same as Kiehin) you can get good results for a 3rd of the cost of a Kiehin. It makes little difference if you get the 28mm or the 30mm OKO (30mm are sometimes cheaper). Because the 30mm Venturi is elliptical and the same as the 28mm for the first 70% of the throttle opening. Watch out for the rubber Float bowl seal. Given the chance it will expand after it's been exposed to petrol. And this makes it hard to get the bowl back on. But oddly enough it stops doing this after you've been using the OKO for 6 months or so. Having said all this Cope is right. With the OKO the power cuts in quicker then the Dellorto but that may not suit your riding style. As it can break traction easier. So, if your looking for smooth low-down power delivery I'd stick with the Dellorto. Also the OKO/Kiehin use more fuel than the Dellorto. Best of balance. Neo

Hi All, I love my new 07 frame.....There's quite a big difference in geometry and it seems to turn a lot tighter now too. But I have just one last problem to solve.....There is coolant dripping out of the radiator cap over flow pipe while the engine is running....? I did not disconnect any radiator hoses at any time. But during the radiator refit the plastic right-angled pipe on the radiator cap popped off. I could see it was a simple o-ring seal snap fitting so I just popped it back in again.without any fuss. But I'm concerned now that there might have been a ball bearing or a spring that popped out too. Does anyone know how these caps work or have any other ideas what might be causing this? Best of balance. Neo

Thanks Gents. Best of balance. Neo

Hi all, My replacement Sherco 07 frame (that came from the UK) has come with Decals that I

What the hell is in a Carb that makes it worth $500 usd!??? Best of balance. Neo

Good point about the tank being so close to the muffler and the fact there should be some heat reflective material there. I've never noticed my tank go soft around there...although the fuel would be dissipating a lot of the heat so I don't believe it would get anywhere near the 300 degrees mentioned by biffsgasgas. I've got the bike fully assembled now. The tank went on (with a good hard push) but there's still a 4mm gap on both (lower half) sides and the rear fender is over lapping the tank on either side of it's front wings. This is really looking like it would take more work than a heat gun could muster.....so I'm considering a new 07 tank when I can afford it. Anyone got an 07 tank they'd like to sell? Best of balance. Neo

Yes that correct scudo and that also puts more of the fuel lower down in the tank. I've never liked the way the 06 tank provides a big clearance area above the carb. Almost like Sherco were considering putting something big there at some time?....fuel injection maybe? Best of balance. Neo

Thanks for the feedback so far gents. Hard to describe without a photo, but standing over the tank and looking down, its stars rubbing about 3 inches down the curved tube (from the top) on the left hand side. And that continues down for a further 3 inches....this is the area on the tank I want to heat (after I clean all the petrol out ). I have two 06 frames here (and the 07 frame) which helps with the comparison. But from what I can see on the 06 frame. Looking down at to two parallel (curved) tubes, the high part of the left hand tube has more of a curve in it than the right hand one. And the same applies to the 06 tank profile too. It is more curved on the left hand side than it is on it

Hi all, I

It would be interesting to see how the votes would come out if this pole was in one of the other bike specific Topics or the General Topic area. Best of balance. Neo

Thanks guy...I appreciate your feedback. Best of balance. Neo

Hi all, I have friend with an 02 Rev3. And it's running rough. Idling is lumpy revs up reluctantly and blows grey smoke. Someone he knows has advised him it's the old Beta stator problem....but that doesn't add up to me. So can someone please describe the symptoms of a faulty dying stator on a Rev 3? Many thanks and Best of balance. Neo

Hi Cope, http://www.trials.com.au/phpBB3/viewtopic....;p=13665#p13665 Stay tuned...I'll take some more at the weekend. Best of balance. Neo

Some of you might remember this post. I had the frame professionally Tig welded but alas it cracked again....Parallel and about 5mm away from the new weld. I need to find a way to stop this happening again. I Hear that the late 06 (possibly 07) frames had additional strengthening behind the cross member. Can someone please help me by emailing me a a photo of that additional strengthening behind the cross member? This would involved lowering the rad to expose the cross member on the inside...sorry. Please can you post here or PM me and I'll let you know my email address. Best of balance. Neo