bashplate

I agree with Andy, certainly looks like a TLR and a 250 too as it's got the BIG fins on the barrel. So....why you worried about the engine number, get out and have some fun on it.

triple X, why not just put a sanding disc in yer grinder and remove the 'not for road use' wording off your tyre. The tyre is well up to been used on the road, and which plod is going to know what brand of tyre is "good or bad" if the wee markings are not there to tell them?

Duzzna look like any Greeves i ever seen.Are there any other parts with it?

Tried putting choke on at full wack, made no difference to how it ran. Going to try a standard carb when i can get hold of one, just to see what happens and if it helps pinpoint the problem.

Hi Sykes, try and get a motorcycle synthetic oil, as the car ones have slightly different friction modifiers which can make the clutch slip. Fuchs(silkoline), castrol, putoline and others all do motorcycle only synthetics.

Hi folks, latest update.....took the complete air filter out of the airbox and then made a alloy mesh and foam filter to cover the bigger than standard hole in the top of the air box. So, went and did some sections, lovely bottom end crappy top end, exactly as before, I'm guessing then that there's plenty of air getting in it's just not been mixed right or ignited right???

as feet up said, if you get it stripped down wheel missalignment will be pretty obvious. back in the day when i ran a 325, it was twiasted sideways at the headstock. gentle heat and a bar lined it all up easy as....i then welded in some extra gussets to stop it happening again. Just make shure the back wheel is set right for the sprocket lining up with the motor sprocket before you take the motor out, else the chain run could be anywhere.

Ok, made an ally muffler as you can see from previous pictures, more 'straight through' than standard box but not too noisey. bike ran as before...that is, real nice bottom end and revs lovely up to 3/4 throttle. then misses like it;s rich at full wack. It will take full throttle at lowish revs without stuttering, but as soon as high revs are reached it misses.Plug colour looks good, so my question now is...does the standard CDI have a rev limiter???? and the bigger carb is allowing it to get into rev limit territory.If this is the case, I have red somewhere on the web, that fitting of pit bike CDI units gives better spark and better ignition curve, and they cheep to buy.Any one know if this is so and which one suits the TLR? The bit I read (can't find it now) seemed to suggest that any with the same amount of wires coming out of it would do, anyone tried this out? Cheers Trev.

man, that is stunning.....hope you going to get the wheels dirty?

Looks like a D.E.P. zorst, very nice refurb Agricon.

cool, now put a bigger counter shaft sprocket on (they cheep) to up your top speed and lower your revs at any speed. freer flowing muffler will proberbly help too....with the added bonus that it will drown out the induction roar!!!!

hi, your mains been drilled out to 1.00mm.....which equates to a 102.5 keihin main jet, so should be plenty. lineaway is right in saying the standard air box is restrictive. sure i read somewhere also that the ignition curve is not very good for top end running, and a cheepo pit bike cdi box helps. try the simple things first though.....

you beauty...nice work andy

Thanks guys, going to have a go at knocking a box up when I get a minute. Always like to get a mental picture of where I'm going with a project before I start... . A drop of elixier also helps . cheers. trev

Hi Charlie, yes I was thinking of the Miller type box, was wondering how they differed internaly to a straight through absorbtion type baffle....I'm much clearer now. One last thing, the 3 bikes pictured have the box close to the cylinder(short header pipe) as apossed to having it hanging out behind the shocker, does the placing of the box alter the engine charictaristics at all, or is it ok to put it anywhere convenient? Thanks to all for your imput, Cheers Trev.

thanks jon

hi guys, just wondering about the alloy mufflers a lot of pre65 bikes use....you know the elongated diamond type, has anyone any idea what the baffle arrangment (if any) is in these? i am guessing the inlet and outlet pipes stick well into the 'can' so that the gas has to double back to get to the outlet pipe.....are the pipes perforated any, or just plain. reccon charlie will know the answer as he's built most things to do with the old 4 strokes. cheers trev.

"I get my carb parts from a company in Liverpool UK called Motocarb. www.motocarb.co.uk" thought I'd try and get some more jets for mine.....not so easy over here, so rang the motocarb guy and they arrived in 6 days and a great price too. SO fitted yesterday and went and did some sections, ran superbly everywhere exept the main jet(last quarter throttle). very smooth trickling along and instant response and the plug was a lovely tan colour. Held the throttle full whack for about 1/4 mile with the bike stuttering along and hit the kill switch.....plug looked only very slightly darker, I was expecting it to be sooty with richness, so was puzzled. jets were 20 pilot, with screw 1 full turn out, and 95 main. was wondering if i need to drop the main jet another couple of sizes still? i'm running the standard exhaust with the mid box under the air box and then curled the tail pipe out behind the shockie, even with no rear muffler fitted, it is very quiet....makes me wonder if the mid box is restricting the topend gas flow? will dig out the camera and post a picture.

someone got a bargain there....what a nice wee bike.

Mark, where are you getting your jets from...are they standard type mikuni jets?

yup.....pictures please

hey Mark, I went and did some testing on the TLR today and it did run much better at the top half of the throttle with the propper type air filter on. the one that had been on was a bodge up that restricted the amount of air the motor could gulp in at higher revs, lifted needle to middle groove too. what i also learnt was that to get the motor to run nice at the bottom end the pilot mix screw was only a quarter of a turn out from the fully in position!!!!!!!!! this would suggest that the pilot jet is TOO BIG and proberbly need to drop down at least 1 if not 2 sizes on that. so taking that into account may be you only need to go up to a 20? What was your pilot screw setting with the 15? I think the idea is to get the motor sweet in the 1 - 2 1/2 turns out....either side of that tells you if the pilot jet is too big or too small. another thing i noticed while i had the carb off, was that one of the wee air intakes ( the 1 at 3 0'clock as you look at the 'bell mouth' end,) was masked by the sharp kink in the rubber boot which clamps to the intake of the carb. if this is indeed the pilot air intake, it may be making my pilot mix rich as not enough air is getting in the mix, so i have to compensate by cutting the fuel right back to quarter turn? comments please from other carb tune wizards would be most welcome . are all TLR rubber boots like this or has mine got kinked a bit more with fitting the mikuni? the rubber also seemed more plasticy than rubber, is this right? and putting in warm water didn't get rid of the kink....kinda looked like that was how it was ment to be. cheers Trev

Hi guys just getting around to having another look at this carbie. to add to the above seetings I can add that the'oval' throat is 25mm tall and 18mm wide....the end of the carb nearest the motor is 26mm(or there abouts), so does this mean it's a PZ26 and not a PZ22 ? I've put a different piece of foam on the filter side as the bodge that was on looked restrictive,which may have been causing the crap wide throttle operation. Will hopefuly get some time at the weekend for a play with the settings. cheers, Trev

try richening the pilot screw first....remember on this carb it is a fuel screw, NOT an air screw, so turn it out to richen the mix. also wondering what state your air filter is in? you can get into the carb without removing from the bike, if you take the float bowl off you'll be able to get at the pilot and main jets, also the needle jet,(to see what the numbers are). also take the top of the carb and you can get the slide out and see what cut away it has and what the needle number is and what possition the clip is.