bashplate

thank you

howdy, does any one know if the TLR 200 front brake plate is made of alloy or magnesium? just wondered as need to do some welding on one. cheers trev.

very neat indeed

man, that kit IS a bargain, hope it works out good for ya

reggie.....i think he was hoping for the jet sizes

thats a neat set up . i was always under the impresion that boyers neaded a battery....how wrong was i .

man, i can't beleive how 'chopper' that fork angle looks!!!!!!

thanks for that mark. my bike is still running the xl cam and is good....but could just do with a bit more grunt at the very bottom when trickling along on rough ground.would proberbly get round it by dropping another touth to 9 on the front, but would be chewing through the swing arm slider a bit more!!! i'm still using the standard 26mm? oval carb, which has very nice power once off the idle. think i may try the cam advance mod if i can't find the atv cam, will report back if and when i get some results, biggest problem is finding enough spare time.....though i do love tinkering

hi TLRMARK, interesting stuff on the heads and cams. was just wondering if you had ever tried advancing the cam ( 6 degrees ) which is supposed to tilt the torque curve towards the bottom of rev range. was hoping to try this on my 200 special which is based on a XL200R. cheers.

Great stuff, nice to see some old rigid's still been used in anger....Beyond your control i know,but a shame the 2 strokes queuing up were drowning out the bikes riding the section.

it does sound like it's pulling the gearbox oil through the seal. i did my 325 bulto crank seals years ago, and once you got the mag off one side and the primary drive off the other, it was just a matter of unbolting a small seal housing off the main cases and popping the new seals in. would think the monty would be a similar set up.

could be worth a try, but think you realy need to sort the rings or valve guides to stop the oil getting in the chamber.if it,s a rebuilt motor, then maybe the rings need bedding in....or have you run it in too gently and the bore has glazed?

nice picture jon,.....mick obviously gave the arial a fright and made it rear up

sooty plug/black smoke sounds like over rich jetting...or float bowl flooding or level too high.check that floats aren,t leaking or catching on anything which would stop them moving smoothly. just as a matter of interest, did you try the new carb with the jets it came with?

hi, is your throttle cable nice and smooth ? could be jamming up.

generaly the rear rim width is 1.85 inch, though some bikes use 2.15 inch. as you would still be using a 4 by 18 tyre i'm not sure what difference the wider rim would make to the tyre profile and therefore grip .....but the wider rim might make the tyre too "fat" for your swing arm, so i'm guessing you would be better with th 1.85 rim. there'll be a bunch of C15/B40 riders along any minute with their views i'm sure.

if your running synthetic 2 stroke, then leave at 33/1 or better go to 50/1. you may need to go up on the pilot to 35 as tony suggested. afer you try that, then maybe up the main slightly, and try lifting the needle.

very nice indeed, and as you say the forks look period.....can you remember what the yokes were off, and if they needed much to make them fit?

what a relief, treat yersel to a beer

I' ll second that motion

brucey, if the plug is sooty, then it's running rich and you may need smaller jets , and or lower the float level. have you tried ajusting the pilot screw setting? and maybe the needle clip? may just be due to flooding of the float bowl due to sticking or dirty float valve, that would be first thing to check.

hi marty, it will be the anti drain vavle in the crankcase that is not seating properly and allowing the oil past when parked up.could be a weak spring or the ball not seating due to dirt or a dinged seat.

NICE JOB ROLLOX, was just wondering if the 'power bulge' front exhaust pipe made any improvements....especialy the low speed running?