bashplate

thanks guys. the chrome is perfect and there's 3 seals each side....from my understanding there should be 2 each side with a spacer between them??? how can you tell if seals are roundy round or up and down ones? they all 35x47x7 but 'outer' ones are blue...tothers are black.

Ok guy's, got a 250 Mar here with leaky fork seal (apparently) and bottoming out alot. On strip down the seals were immaculate with as new edges on the 'scapers' and the dust covers gripped the stanchions good. Stanchions good fit in the sliders, with clean ATF drained from them, though a minimal amount due to leakage. Just guessing here (not my bike) but looks like the oil had got past the seals and then trapped between them and the dust covers....then to the out side world. SOOoooo, would excessive compression tying down on a trailer force the oil past the seals??? or is there some other scenario which would explain how tiptop seals would leak? Any tips for improving while I'm in there like oil grade or damping hole modifications? springs are 19 inch long no spacers...the other posts I've seen say 17 inch is that with spacers? Cheers, Trev

Off the top of my head.....the multi connecter is for the lights and charging system, just unplug and ditch everything linked up to it. the other one with 2 wires are for the ignition. think the kill links in to the coil somehow. Be aware that theTLR CDI gets it's signal from the outer flywheel trigger, so there's a wire to power the CDI box and another for the coil... can't remember the colours and I'm p*ssed and it's dark in the shed!!!! There will be some one along soon of a more sober disposition, LOL

think they might be the same as one of the 125 models

watching this one with interest !!!!

Got some primo bikes in your garage....love the race triples!!!!!

If it's not eligible for the Scottish....can you please send it to New Zealand, what a stunning C15.

thanks for the link Robbie...all makes sense now.

looks good robbie, glad the forks work out well....just out of interest which of the small holes did you blank off as there's one in the alloy bit and one in the steel tube?

dude....an over oiled air filter will make the bike run like a bag of sh*t (don't ask me how I know this, LOL)

Try the mid atlantic trials site....they do OKO replacement carbies which are jetted for specific bikes. I have one on my TLR and a mate hes one on his Monty.....F*ckin awesome. and not expensive.

with the air screw that far out it should have been running weak, high fuel level could cause over richness....but if your 'O' ring is rooted, then this would be my fix. Go easy on the oil ratio too if your running synthetic .

Jerry, look at twinshockshop web page, they do parallel trees for tlr200/250 which give all the results your after....give them a call/e-mail to see if they fit RTL.

Off the top of my head the tlr200 shoes are around 10-15mm smaller diameter than the 250's and only 20mm wide, where as the 250's are 25mm wide.

nice, did you find the cherry bomb header made any difference, to how the bike runs?

​approximately 30- 32 mm or 1 1/4 in old money. very simple mod and works.

yes the cable does run very close to the header pipe, mine had burnt through the plastic outer cover...so i cleaned it up and put some heavy duty heat shrink over the damaged area and slightly rerouted the cable to stop it happening again.

Soooo, just to be sure on this, boost bottles were just a gimmick of their day and no f*ckin good what so ever. Would like to put this one to rest as every man and his dog had these on bikes in the 80's.

XL/XR 200 cable should fit.

Here in Mexico all of the corn gets turned into tortillas. All of the gas (petrol??) is pure dead dinosaurs. At last, a country with some common sense....they also make Corona beer....Yummy.

Why oh why do the powers that be have to f@#k with stuff......if it ain't broke, don't fix it. They went from leaded fuel to unleaded....and it is way more toxic, and now the bloody ethanol saga...what a fiasco. Sorry, but in my eyes it's all bull sh*t.

Thanks Sicco, another proberble cause!!!! I've had quite a few practice rides since putting it back together, just to make sure it doesn't manifest again in the middle of a trial.....and so far all is good.

Hi Kirk, it is the original tank.......but slimmed down and a wee bit out of the hight too. When I got the bike the tank was very badly squashed and bent, so I was looking for a slim style early XL tank, but every one I came across was rusted out real bad. So in the end the only thing holding up the project was the tank, hey ho nothing to loose by trying to mod the original (which was very good steel), so chopped straightened and slimmed. I was rather surprised how well it turned out. Good luck with yours, Cheers Trev

Are you sure you realy want Castrol R....it's a bugger for going off and gumming up your motor. A nice synthetic will give you more protection, easyly available and cheaper...only thing missing would be the smell, but I'm sure I read of a synthetic that has the magic 'R' smell...just can't remember the brand.