the air filter was "OK" ..but I did pull it off and there was no change ,maybe even a little worse (fuel starving??? i,ll look at the screen)
it will start and run just not in 1 or 2 kicks ... mid range it still runs reasonable thats whats so confusing
heat seems to make no difference
OK ....its a "00 rev3 250
I was riding along and it felt kinda boggy ..wouldnt pull clean off the bottom end(this bike has always pulled down low VERY clean)
so I tried to clean it out (you know whack it open) thats when I noticed it wouldn't rev out
now this bike has not been used that much this year so I figured fresh gas and a new plug would do th trick...noop
so the carb must be mucked up ..took it to work and gave it a through cleaning....still no luck
broken reed ....nada
scored piston and or a stuck ring... negative
so what is this mystery disease??
timing?
coil?
HELPPPPPP
this all started out of the blue (IE .no I hadn't been messing with it) not to mention its always been stone reliable
thanks
troy
I put v force in my '00 250
at first I didn't think it was that drastic of a change
but the more I rode it and accustom myself to it the more
I noticed .
now it will pull confidently from WAY down low (like well below idle)
its quite amazing, the bike carbarets(sp) very well and always has
but now its just several notches better
Is yours a 2000
because the late models have a different "bolt"
in that spot ,it's shorter.
This could help in your case
or just keep an eye on those seat bolts.
my 2000 with 145main and 27.5 pilot jet and n7yc plug
seems to like it between 2.5 and 3 turns out.
I do have the idle set slightly high
if someone knows more chime in
I recently bought back my '00 250 rev 3.........
well to make a long story short I've been going through it.?.!..?..!....
and I've found that the mid pipe has worn a sizeable divot into the gas tank !
Has any one ever worn through the tank?
So far I've took a die grinder to the weld on the mid pipe and added some asbestos type muffler tape to the tank.
I think this will be sufficient .
Just wondering if any one else had this problem
i've probably done 20 + trials rears and god knows how many street tires (more than a thousand)
no issue here 'cept for a few stupidly wide race tires
just my 2 cents
cant say this would help you now........but........
I keep 2 of everything in my van
when I would bend a brake badly I would just swap it
then when I get back home, straighten it with fair amount of heat.
Been doing this for 5 years or so and only broke one (and I think that was a brand new one!)
When I put new pads in I clean the pistons with an old toothbrush
and some contact cleaner.
Just be GENTLE as you could damage the seal and/or push dirt past it.
Dont let the rear res go dry when your bleeding it as its a b!tch to
get all the air out!
ok look guys this is not that hard!
get a heat gun and a pyrometer.
heat to approximately 200 to 250deg (the hub not the bearing)
get an expandable bearing puller with a slide hammer,
trust me you can get a bite on the bearing and it will just about
fall out in your hand.
when you re insert the new bearing make sure the hub is good and hot
it should just about (if not ) fall in place
ok this is the second one on my 2000 rev 3
the rear carrier cracks around the forward mount hole
I only use 10 to 12 lbs of torque (on the bolt ).... is this to much??
whats the fix ?
are there beefier ones from another year?
what year is that hub?
my 2000 is not at all like that.
mine pop right out with a small bearing puller
and some heat
i also give the the entire thing a light coat of grease to cut down on corrosion
