rmxboy

Hi , could i have a manual for a 2018 combat 300? thanks jeff@stringfellows.co.nz j

The bike is new to me and I have noticed that it felt a little like it was loading up (rich? ) when past half to full throttle. It has a 118 main, 40 pilot , d34 needle with the clip on the second clip from the bottom. The starter jet is a 100. and there is 200 stamped on the needle / seat base. The mixture screw was 2 1/4 turns out. The float arms were a bit higher than parrallel. I am running Motul 800 2t at 25mls per liter ( About 66:1 , having run enduro bikes for the last 10 years I am finding it hard to get to 80:1 just yet.) Yesterday I adjusted the float arms to be parallel as per the manual. This didnt seem to fix the problem. I was then playing with the mixture screw , I turned it out 3 1/2 as per JSE's instructions but that didnt help either. As a stab in the dark I turned it right in, the idle got faster but it didnt fall off the idle like I had gone past the sweet spot. I then backed the screw out to 1 1/2 turns and it seems a lot better. There is now a smooth pull right through the revs . I quess the question is , what does this mean.? is the carb jetted to lean? I am assuming that the mixture screw is richening the mixture the further you turn it in? Can anyone point me in the right direction. I dont want to go to lean and burn it up. Thanks for your help.

Hello Steve, to answer two questions at once. Kerosine is an abrasive that needs to be well flushed when using on metal parts. Learned this from a small engine mechanic. (lawn mowers weed eaters etc not a midget.) I have always used kerosine to wash out dirty air filters then qive it a flick across the lawn. Then use a small amount of laundry powder in some warm water , wash and rinse. Then repeat the wash and rinse step. then rinse again. If you are a bit fussy with filter maintenance you can use a white plastic container to do this. you can then see when the rinse water runs clean and the container has no grit left in it. This works for ktm300 filters and they suck a lot more volume than the gasser does. This works with most filter oils as such, not sure about the no toil type products. Petrol should only be used as a last resort due to the flamabilty and the fact it eats the glue that holds the fliters together. Regards

Thanks Jon will get one sorted.

Thanks guys. These sound like a good solution to the problem. Jon , is that breather just a generic type avaliable at any auto part store or something specific. ? Regards

Hello all. Went out for my first real ride on a new to me 06 300pro. The ride was in a dry dusty paddock with a small creek splash to get across. 4 inches deep at the most. After I washed the bike I took the magneto cover off to have a look in there. While i was getting the cover off a small puddle was forming on the floor from inside the cover. The water is clean and I can only guess that its from the wash down after the ride. I had the cover off last week and was a bit damp but not this wet. the bike was washed with a hand hose and brush not a water blaster. Any ideas where to start waterproffing it. The flywheel is showing signs of being damp in the past. ( rusty etc) It looks like the water may be going straight down through the wires coming out of the case. I need to get a flywheel holder and puller and I will pull it off and have a good look behind it to see how wet it has been. Thanks for your time.

Thanks Guys. Thats the numbers I was after.

Hello , Can any one tell me if an '06 300 Pro has a spacer on the axle between the hub and the disc side fork leg? Secondly can anyone confirm the front wheel bearings are 6905Rs?. Thanks for your time.

Thanks guys . Thats what I was after.

Hi all, first of all thank you to the people that gave advise on the 01 321 verses 06 300 decate. I bit the bullet and bought the 06 300. The wife will have to wait for the new kitchen a bit longer. The only switch left on the 'bars is the kill switch. Can any one tell me where to look for the wires that would have been connected to the rain/sun switch. And what colour they should be. Also I have seen some other posts that suggest that if apart that the setting is rainy can some one confirm. Thanks for your time.

I have been looking for a tidy '01 321 for the last year to buy. I have got one that I need to get some more details on but I now have the option of an '06 300 that hasnt done a lot of work for about 25% more. I am undecided as I have heard that the 300s are a bit harder on the gearboxes and kickstart gears etc. But they have latter technology etc. Anyone have strong views either way? Anyone gone from a 321 to a 300pro. ? Thanks for your time.

Scooter I am in the North Island of New Zealand. Although it is summer here we only have moderate temperatures. Because my bike is a project made form three wrecks I have never had a heat sheild and am never quite sure what is standard on these. What material did you make the heat sheild out of. I must apologise for getting this thread side tracked. The internet sure makes the world a smaller place. regards Jeff

Hello Scooter, I recieved an email from Re-MX to say that some one had dropped by with an "S" carb. I quess that was you. He said that the xr 75 carb would work and that he has jets to fit. He also said that the "S" carb had a 105 main jet in it. is this the size that you are running.? what pilot jet do you run in a 125s motor. That is pretty neat that you live nearby and can call in and check over the parts. Living at the bottom of the globe I need to trust what the seller tells me and take a gamble on any purchases. Thanks

Scooter, regards the heat sheild between the carb and manifold. Have you run a bike without it? I have never had one on the bike that i have. Can you give me some dimensions for the sheild and I will make one and see if that helps with my issues.

Scooter. Do you know if the "S" carb is the same as anything else of that era? or is it TL specific. Are the XR 100 carbs 22mm and higher bodied like the SL 125s. Thanks

Sorry forgot to add. Drop the guys at Re-MX.com an email about replacement carbs. I have had a price of $122 usd to New Zealand so you can probably get one cheaper than that. That is a carb that will work on a TL and a jet kit to fine tune it.

Hello Wayne, I cant be one hundred percent sure but I know that a carb rebuild kit for an xr 75/80 fits the tl 125 carb. The needle needs to be about 43mm long. I know the SL 125 carb is a lot taller and the bowl is larger because a carb kit for a SL 125 was no use to me. Any donor carb needs to be 64mm from front to back ( flat mating surfaces) , the inlet into the manifold is 22mm dia and the 6mm bolts for the manifold are at 48mm centers. The standard TL main jets are 95 or 98 and the pilots are 35 or 38 depending if its an "s" or not. The diameter where the boot from the airbox fits is about 32mm. I measured a carb at the weekend looking for some causes to an issue that I have. Hope this helps.

Thanks for thesuggestions . I will try a new condensor and points at the weekend. I have also ordered a carb rebuilt kit and found an old coil off one of the donor bikes. I will try these one at a time and look for a definate answer. will keep you informed.

I have a TL 125s motor in a '73 frame. The last time that i rode it, it had a miss or bog at a third or half throttle. I thought that it sounded like it was loading or choking up. I have been off it since May last year due to an injury and have been playing around trying to trace the miss. I have got a 95 main jet, a 38 pilot jet and the needle is a 062307. I have tried lifting the clip on the needle to the top slot (thinking it was running rich) but the miss is still there. I have found that it will rev cleanly to 1/4 throttle then any more it starts to miss or sound like its choked. This is with no load on the engine in nuetral. Is this the wright needle?. I noticed that at the point of missing, the exhaust is clean burning eg not black sooty smoke. The plug is quite light in colour and now I am thinking it may be runninng lean. Would these symptems match a lean setting? I have advanced the points to see if they were the issue, but same result. The bike is a project that has been built from three others. It goes okay and cleans up the local twinshock class but this miss is annoying me. It wont pull up any hills at all and TY 175s balst up them. Sorry for the long question but tying to hand over all details. The one thing that i havent tried is pulling the choke half on to see if it is running lean. Ignition or jetting?

Just a quick question. Do all Ty 250 twinshocks have the same left side mag cover. ? Some photos that I have seen have a round cover with a center bump like a TY1 75. Other photos show a smooth cover that runs back to cover the counter shaft sprocket. Thanks for your time.

Thanks Graeme, Since the email I have stripped down my dump motor ( found a complete TL125s at the local tip.) These are quite different to the TL 125 that I have currently. S model has the split head and new style cam, still uses points. The right hand side of the crank has a finer spline than the older model. The gear clusters are different. The center gasket is close to an XL 125s gasket, but the clutch cover is the same as the old model. The kickstart assembly is different to the old model aswell. The s model clutch has five plates rather than the four plate plus spacer. The S model has two coils in the mag cover. I will run the old single coil cover. Am looking to get the dump motor running first, then will see how gutless it is before deciding what to try next. My old motor spun the flywheel at the last trial, is this common?. The crankshaft key is pretty knackered. Jeff.