trialtrial

I found the instructions. PM me with your email and I will send them to you.

Noticed my 44 tooth rear sprocket has about a 3-4mm runout near the teeth. Otherwise its still in fine shape. I am trying to save money these days. I can press it back to within 1mm runout, or I can leave it, or (if I really have to) buy a new one. Recommendations?

Did mine in real bad when I was around 20. Motorcycle accident. TWO YEARS - IN A CAST. Really sucked. Blood flow was the problem, they tried surgery (bone graft) and electromagnetic stimulation - didn't make much difference. 30 years later still has not really healed, scar tissue holding it together. Limited range of movement, but doesn't keep me from having fun. Couple times of year it hurts. Understand that mine is a rare case.

I totally agree - this will confirm your stator output. Then if you can borrow a CDI and coil, that will confirm the sparking. If that does not work, you have something wrong in the fuel system, crap in the carb, no flow, broken fuel switch.

Sorry cant find my instructions. From what I remember: Mounting the tank - remove the upper shock bolt and replace with supplied bolt (has a threaded hole in the head) - remove opposite side bolt and replace with supplied bolt (same as shock bolt) - loosely attach the fuel tank bracket to the tank - loosely attach the angle brackets to the tank - unscrew the gas cap and mount the tank - adjust the bolt so it fits as best as possible, then tighten all the bolts. Fuel Line - you will have to cut the fuel line and splice in a "T" - what did with mine was to review some mesh from the fender, and have some line poking out above the bike, I then put in a single splice to connect to the aux tank - this way I could remove it for competitions. - you might have to shorten the aux tank line or it will get kinked and you wont get flow. Usage - I have the aux tank OFF, until I drain the main tank. That way I know how much fuel I have gone through. Hope this helps.

Beyond what has been posted on the OSSA websites, here is some info I got from the importer: - same engine and geometry as the TR280i - slightly stiffer suspension than TR280i - higher footpegs than TR280i, but can be swapped - same transmission ratio as TR280i - heavier (of course) - its not an enduro (obviously), but a "trail" bike. Sound exactly what I want. Basically a street legal bike derived from a trials bike. Single track monster!

I park my bikes in the living room. I sit on the couch with a shotgun. Just let 'em try...

I have to do the same with my Beta and my Gas Gas when cold: couple of soft turn overs, then kick it. When warm they go first kick, sometime Beta need me to pull the hot start though. So if thats the same with the TR280i, no biggy. Can this remapping be done at home shop or is it a special dealer thing?

Any news about the OSSA explorer in Europe? It wont be in North America until June. Just wondering if its out in Europe now, if any reviews, videos, etc. I have seen the CAD renderings, a few of the photos from the OSSA site, the various magazine articles based on the product literature. I am quite interested in this bike, as it is trials based, very light and they will try to make it street legal in north america. Thanks

I have a 08 Beta 4T with a long range seat/tank - I use it exclusively for single track riding out in the woods (and the desert too). It is GREAT. However, its not street legal. So I am looking foreward to the arrival of the OSSA explorer in June.

DANG! I thought I was totally convinced but with a compelling argument, such as that one... now I am not so sure!

When I first got my 08 Rev 4T I was skeptical and struggled with the compression, but after some tweaking and a lot of riding, I LOVE this bike. I just wanted to say that. Now I am outta the closet. done.

Well I found out the hard way that my old gasser is not so well designed when it comes to water. Seems if go through a deep puddle or a foot of water, the water (and related crap) will wrap wround the tire, hit the fender and wash right into the airbox. Last week it was plugged solid with water and crap. Anyone have this problem with their old TXT GG? Any mod to fix it?

On my 2008 Rev 4T - the rear brake pedal is too high. I find I ride the rear brake too much and want to lower it. I looked at the pedal and it looks like it really cannot be adjusted. Anyone have the same issue? Did you make a change? What did you do? thanks

Where can I get a copy of this advice sheet?

In trying to hunt down a misfire in my 2008 Rev 4T, I pulled the stator and trigger coil out. Gee look what I found. The PO must have rode it hard and put it away wet! Looks like its out of a 30 year old bike that has been sitting outside on the Scottish Coast all its life.

Most of your statements are wrong and ill informed. You need to do your research. I have owned an electric car for over five years, and have faced many people who fall under these false impressions. Electric cars and motorcycles have not taken off for two reasons: (1) Battery technology limits their range. Now that Lithium battery technology is becoming more mainstream and safer it will help imporve range and acceptability. Still, 1hr riding is not enough for most people. (not enough for me!) (2) Cost of research, development and production. It is cheaper to stick with what you have and do incremental improvements. Contrary to your uninformed comments: (1) Maintenance is by far superior with electric vehicles. Way less moving parts. No heat issues. Battery replacement is expensive, but total cost of ownership of a typical life of a vehicle is by far cheaper for electric. The motors and controllers last for *millions* of km. (2) When considering environmental impact electric vehicles, even when charged by coal fired plants, have 1% of the emissions of gasoline powered vehicles - do your research! There have been many studies on this performed by car companies and governments. (3) Disposal is not an issue. Again, there have been many, many studies on this. Recycling of battery technology is established and has been in place for many, many years. Some other points to consider. (1) electric motors have a huge amount of torque right from the start. The powerband is different from a 2T or 4T. Comparing direct power ratings between a 2T/4T and a electric motor is difficult because of the vast difference in the powerband. The only way to tell is be real-world performance comparison. (2) electric motors, controller and battery packs can easily be made waterproof to automotive standards. My motor, controller and battery packs are fully sealed to IP66 and IP67 standards. Similar to other automotive electical components. (3) I have no clutch in my car. You press the throttle and it goes. Electric motorcycles are the same. You cannot stall an electric bike. So it would all boil down to fine throttle control. (4) Lots of electic cars have no gearboxes. Mine has a geabox, but I leave it in 2nd gear all the time. My speed ranges from 0 to 80kmh without any issue. My AC induction motor has a very wide power band up to 9000 RPM. I suspect for most trials type riding, because of the wide powerband, it will probably not need a gearbox (unless you want to do 60kmh down a road). MotomanAndy, next time, do your research before commenting. Please!

Thanks all for the tips. Here is the scoop: Kill switch already replaced. Valves were done about 10hrs ago. Good fuel (good gas too). I tore down the carb - everything was spotless, blew it all out anyways. I started to look at the CDI, then noticed one of the wires going into the CDI was melted from touching the exhaust. I pulled out the unit and inspected the damage. Very corroded - to the point of coppery blue poweder on the wires. Looks like it will still conduct, but probably adding a bunch of resistance. Unfortunately its right next to the CDI box so there is not enough wire to form a good splice.

That was part of the plan - but if others have the problem as well - I'd like to hear about their fix.

About every 3rd or 4th ride, when I start the bike, it runs rough. Poor idle. Like the timing is messed up. I ride it around for a while - that seems to help. Other times, it starts right up, idles excellent. I noticed a couple of comments from other Beta 4T owners having the same problem. If anyone else had this problem with their Rev 4T - how did you correct it?

thanks for the info - I will check it out.

I am new to trials, weigh in at 115kgs, 6'2". I have an older GG 2000 280 I bought for about 1000 BP. It was really worn out, but served well. Put on a slow throttle tube to help me learn better throttle control. Spent too much time fixing the GG, so I just replaced it with a 08 Beta 4T 250. Again adjusted the throttle tube - all is well. 250 is lots of power to pull me up anything and with the slow throttle tube more than tame enough to handle.

I am glad to hear the white throttle tube worked out. I adjusted the idle/tickover as well just to be a little higher. I am getting the same results - such a great bike now for me. I am really loving it. I just need to figure out the hot start problem. Seems that others dont have the same issue, ah well - wouldn't be the first time I was alone in the woods!

Thats probably the issue....

He guys, got the ty250 mono running. One of the things I did was cleaned up and re-greased the kick starter. But now it wont sit nicely stowed away while riding - it just creeps out. Suggestions? thanks