joeninety

Working backwards from from issue 3 to 1.... 3, This is the gearbox breather and the free end doesn't connect to anything. I'm not an Ossa owner but I would imagine it just curls around behind the front sprocket pointing downwards towards the bash plate, job done! 2, Yep, you've lost your split link. Just order a new one but make sure its for an Iris chain as I don't think the Renthal ones fit. Its important to make sure the rounded nose of the retaining link is traveling in the forward direction when on the chain. If you put it on the other way round there are places like the tensioner that could hook the retaining link off. 1, Right, this ones a bit more difficult. From the photo it looks like it might have been welded before but you need to remove the exhaust and take it to a good welder who knows how to properly weld aluminium to sort that crack out. If the crank propigates to the flange threaded hole nake sure the weld goes this far and then re-tap (re-thread) hole. If you want a bit of a bodge fix maybe some car exhaust repair paste might suffice but not sure how long this would last in the tough world of trials... Hope this helps? Gary.

The DC rack doesn't have any pin arrangment. I use 4 straps to secure bike: 1) Around rear wheel to the loop in the upright post. 2) From rear most foot rest to the rack loop that is rear most on the rack (this pulls the back of the bike down) 3) From handle bars to one of the loops next to the tow ball (this pulls the front down and the bike towards the car). 4) Again from the same place on the handle bars to the other loop (this is a back-up strap just incase the the other one fails) I've found with this arrangment the rack ends have never moved from the part that attaches to the car. I also sometimes put a chain lock around the swing arm through the tow bar mounting bracket if I'm planning on stopping anywhere or when I do evening trials and go to trial straight from work for security. Also, Lestergg2005 is on the money about not travelling with rack attached and no bike as is could jump out unless you've strapped in on somehow... Cheers, Gary.

MSM won't touch non road registered bikes. CN would (frame & engine numbers required which is good) and will do a 2013 Gas Gas TXT Pro 300 (even though the 300cc model wasn't in their records!! only, 125, 200, 250 , 280 & 320) not road registered and insured for fire & theft only, excess £100, £250 worth of tool insurance, data tagging kit worth £30, it’s got to locked up as I've stated it is and be in a brick or concrete built garage all for £179. They kept asking me if I was the registered keeper and I replied I was the owner and the bike is not road registered hence I'm not the registered keeper and then the question was asked again!! (I do despair with these insurance companies...) I think the price is high considering I only pay about £100 more for my car that is better insured and I'm much more likely to claim due to driving it on the road and the other idiots around. I wish the ACU would get into bed with an insurance company who really understands the issues us off roaders have.

Where do we all get this "super herb" from??? With some of that I'll be ready to tackle anything Toni does...

A method the club I ride uses (and various other clubs I have ridden for) different classes on the same route. For example, the white route (which is one up from beginners is the most populated route with the widest range of abilities. This route has 3 classes attached to it, noviceC, veteranC and over 60's. Riders who wish to step upto the red/blue route would then ride noviceB or veteranB but there is also an intermediate class for ex-expert riders dropping back down to something a bit less servere and for riders on their way to becoming experts. They have also introduced 50/50 classes this year which have been a success and have taken a group of regular class winners and taken them into a class of their own... When I was a school boy if you came within the top three of your class you had to move up to the next route, this was fine from beginners to the 'C' route but when I got upgraded to 'B' I think I rode two trials (badly) and then gave it up. Took me 20+ years to come back! Now the club is has a much more relaxed attitude to ability and classes and it is enjoyable, entry numbers are up and most look like they're enjoying themselves which at club level is what its all about.

... and then hell froze over!

As per Newton's 3rd law, every action has an equal and opposite reaction and with Jotagas' design the reaction is straight though the main beam of the frame whereas other makes are vertical and need an outrigger that needs to be quite substantial to react the forces without flexing.

A mate uses a crafty placed baby monitor in the garage. Cheap and cheerful...

Jeez, over 100 posts of speculative drivel... This thread should be locked and only un-locked when official Vertigo photos or specs are published.

I ended up with this set-up in the end, mainly due to the wires not being long enough to reach the connecting points without a join but as ourian said the lanyard doesn't loop down which is good.

At the end of the day it each to their own, what ever works best for you. My magnetic kill switch should arrive today and I'm planning on fitting it between the grip and the clutch lever for left hand operation, I will see how I get on with it Sunday...

Hmmm... Interesting, so everytime you need yo adjust your helmet or scratch ya bo!!ox you gotta find neutral. Nearly all pre section adjustments seems to be done with the throttle hand, carb adjustments, moving a branch out the way, and even things like holding the punch card for the observer or waving to ya groupies seems to be naturally throttle hand!

No worries, thanks for looking anyway...

Hi, Thanks for your reply CoB. Does anyone have the dimensions for the Apico stand though? Cheers, Gary.

Hi, I'm after the dimensions of a A frame design trials stand (like the Apico stand) if anyone has one they could measure for me? Cheers, Gary.

Its not totally irrelevent to the post as maybe the standard bike isn't as "down specced" as people seem to believe...

Interestingly enough a magazine have done a review of both the standard and the factory and it seems the standard came out on top due to its suspension being more plush and not as sharp as the factory model. Also the specs say the suspension of the standard is fully adjustable like the factory but the thing that made me smirk was the fact the standard model is 0.5kg lighter than the factory?! Seems to me that for your average clubman the standard is the one and a cost saving of £1100 too... now, wheres my cheque book! Cheers, Gary.

Another small mod... A hole drilled in the top of rear wheel vertical support and hey presto a fishing umbrella slides straight in!

It looks a neat solution but I wouldn't be using it for anything more than a push bike. With a trials bike and rack you are on the edge weight limit wise and I've found if the flanged mount bolts if aren't stupidily tight then the bar that stays on the car can twist. With that design you have a huge moment force held over a small area...

I didn't ride on Sunday as had a gig in the evening and time wise it would have been pushing it but I did make an appearance to pay up for the awards night... I hear there's a magician that night and I was hoping he could magic up some "clean" score cards for this year?! Haven't sold the Sherco yet, nearly bought a new old stock 2013 Gas Gas but while I was thinking if 300cc was over the top someone else snapped it up. Was a good price... I think the biggest concern with not staying with "big four" is supply of spares in the future, say Jotagas went outta business for example and Steve, you never talk Bo11ox!

I think your mate is right. There's a couple of things to try, firstly move your lever as far from the grip (this also saves levers in the event of a crash) as you can and just use just your index finger. This gives a mechanical advantage and will make the clutch feel lighter. Secondly, I like the clutch biting point really close to the bars, even to the point of slight clutch drag as I have much more control with my finger wrapped around the lever as opposed to using my finger fully extended. This also seems to help with clutch finger fatigue. Hope this helps...? My mates Fantic twin shock cable clutch is as light as any huydaulic clutch Ive tried...

I'd like to see a bike designed for just clubman use but with specific attention paid to the bike not being homologated (I think this is the right term) i.e. a bike that can't be road registered (most club events have no road work) and this would negate having to design & produce lights and relevent switch gear, horn, speedometer etc etc that new trials bikes come with and most folks remove. Not sure how this would work with regards to import, tax, UK regulations etc but if it could be done this could knock a grand of the price and £3k for a new decent clubman bike I think could be a goer. The other specific area I would like to see more thought put into is noise and fluid containment as this would make the sport more "friendly" in the eyes of the tree huggers and hopefully lead to new land opening up or at worst keeping hold of land we already use... For your average clubman rider any bike produced in the last 10-12 years will out perform the person riding it and there is nothing wrong with any of the current bike designs and in the right hands will do amazing things so instead of reinventing the wheel lets clean up what we already have...

Sometimes these things happen. I bought my Sherco off a mate and after a month a main bearing let go and part of the bearing cage got into the cylinder and scored the barrel similar to yours. He felt dreadful and gave me a small sum back but I wouldn't accept anymore as he sold it to me in good faith. Sometimes these things happen, but I suspect in your case the seller probably knew... Moving on, I see two options. You either break the bike and sell spares, I'd have thought you probably get 3/4 of you rmoney back at a guess but a pain in the back side or you repair it. If I was going to repair it I'd be asking the following question, whats the rest of the bike like? Things like head bearings, linkage bearings, brakes etc? The 315 is a good bike and I would possibly do the repair, its going to cost you the best part of £500 if you do it yourself but then you will know its all done and pukka whereas you could scrap it and buy another "cheapie" and end up with the same problem as, lets face it the bike is getting on a bit. Parts like gaskets, bearings, even pistons and fairly cheap but the main cost will be getting the barrel re-plated. It'll be Nicosil plate and the company in the UK who does that is Langcourts. When I had my Sherco barrel done I sent it off to Splat Shop and they were fantastic and sent barrel away to Langcourts for me and was then sent back with correct piston and all the parts I need to rebuild. I would give them a call to see if they could do this for your Montesa. With this service you will lose the barrel for about 3 weeks, this gave me plenty of time to total strip my bike, clean & grease everything etc. I think once you get it back together you'd have a solid bike for a good few years. The bottom line is you could buy a 08 , 09 , 10 year bike and have the same issue in a year or sooner... Hope this helps!

Hi, I just wondered if anyone has seperate insurance for their bike while in transport, i.e on a rack or trailer. I'm pretty sure that my car insurance won't cover it and at the moment I've not been too worried as my bike is only worth sub £1000 but I'm thinking about purchasing something a bit newer and more expensive and would like it covered? Cheers, Gary.

It removes from the car like any other Dave Cooper rack and I'm not any more or less careful than when the number board was seperate and each of the two sections just hangs on a hook in my garage when not in use... Job done.