longlegscanbeuseful

Hi All, I've decided to drag the 280i back into life. It tried to kill me 3.5 years ago and has been under the bench since with a smashed seat unit and cracked exhaust. I've stuck to the old faithful gripper ever since. Seat and exhaust now fixed and it started after about 10-15 kicks with just the old fuel in it, so not too badly set up. However, I would like to be able to set the TPS so will have a go at building the cable. Can I please get the software off one of you gentlemen out there. Also some maps if possible. Mine is the 2011 original model and has been on the same map since 2012 when i acquired it.

Here you go... http://ossa.2y.net/ossa/reference/ossaref.html

If all you did was change the clutch springs then I'd say your clutch is slipping. The kickstart is output side of the clutch and will not turn the engine if the clutch is disengaged. I found the lighter springs from Rex Caunt Racing needed to be adjusted a long way in to stop the clutch slip in 4th and 5th.

Sorry, should have said English doesn't work. Just click on "Trial" in the grey tabs. That will open the trials manuals, then choose the one you want. Also info for carbs and electrics further down the page. I just downloaded them all in case they disappear one day.

All the manuals are here.. http://www.vitalemaquinas.com/manuales-despieces.html

I think "that part" is a crankcase bolt from near the top left of the stator, near to where the cable exits. The bracket bit acts as a cable guide/shield.

Hi Adrian, if you check on the Inmotion website you'll find two options for the nut. The one you have is designed for the 10T sprocket as the chain would foul the standard nut. I can't help with the width right now as I'm working away from home, try calling them and ask them to measure the thickness. Yours does look a bit thicker than normal but that may be the close up angle of the photo. Also the key thing with the sprocket is the chain alignment with the back sprocket. In your photo the sprocket looks very worn on the side, is the other side the same? If not it would suggest poor previous chain alignment. I'll be happy to take some measurements next weekend if you don't get it sorted before then. Cheers, Gary

How is your Spanish..? Try here for manuals.... http://www.vitalemaquinas.com/manuales-despieces.html

I've been using these for years http://www.physioroom.com/product/McDavid_Flexy_Knee_Pad_Pair_/3328/38571.html.

They are similar to the Gasgas forks, lots of stuff if you search on the Gasgas forum. Also try the link below and download the relevant documents. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html

You're welcome Kingscorpion. You might want to check the float height if you are having fuel starvation problems. It's quite easy to disturb the adjustment during dis-assembly and re-assembly. Have a look at this website to help. It is for the OKO which is the copy of the Keihin. http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/Instal.html

Cant help with 250 but i have a sweet running 350 with the oko version fitted. Main is 112, pilot is 55, slide no3, needle JJH and clip in the middle. Good luck.

Hi, I had an '04 Beta with the same problems. Two things to look out for. Firstly there must be some play at the lever, about 3mm. If not he pads will bind and then get hot which will make them stick on. Second, I found that however clean and serviced the brakes were the problems would start after the pads were worn past 50%. Change the pads as soon as you see any uneven wear. If you need to get to your monies worth, keep the brakes clean and serviced and rotate the pads regularly to even up the wear. Good luck.

I use the same Maplins 9v Battery box and yes it should be left switched on. Mine is located inside the airbox to keep it dry. The wiring is very simple, the red should go to the red at the capacitor on the headstock. The black should go to one side of the kill/starter switch, the otherside of the switch should go to the black wire at the capacitor. My standard batteries last at least 6 months. If you have access to a DVM then measure the battery voltage, if it's wired correctly the voltage will be same battery in or out of the box. The voltage should only drop when the button is pressed.

http://www.vitalemaquinas.com/manuales-despieces.html Loads of stuff on here.

I had a similar problem where it seemed my clutch adjustment was changing every 5 minutes. Had a couple of occasions sitting waiting to enter a section with the clutch in and the bike would just set off as if I'd let out the clutch. It turned out to be the fibre clutch plates delaminating. New plates fixed it.

The spacer thickness is not that critical, the brake plate should be tight against the fork. (Originally the RHS fork, but some people swap them to improve the brake cable routing. You can tell by the fork oil drain bolts, they should be at the rear of the fork.) The other side of the wheel is held tight by the step in the spindle, the fork does not have to be tight against the spacer and can float on the spindle until clamped. I suspect the previous owner fell into that trap. The fork is clamped onto the spindle by the pinch bolts at the bottom, its position is governed by the distance between the forks which are hopefully nice and parallel. It's best to refit the wheel and tighten everything except the pinch bolts on the non brake side, then put the bike back onto the floor and compress the forks. This should help align the fork legs. If you want to do it on the lifter then remove the fork springs and lift the wheel/forks to check for any restriction in movement. Bent mudguard stays can act like springs pushing or pulling between the fork legs, so if you suspect there is a problem then you should remove them while you align the forks.

Hi All, I've just picked up a MK2 MAR to add to my stable. There are a couple of interesting features which it would be nice to know the history of. My intention is to trial it and maybe one day restore it. The previous owner has had it for 30 years and has not done any of the mods, its as it was when he acquired it in 84. The cylinder fins have been slotted to take a rubber strip, maybe to reduce noise or vibration. I've never seen this on a MAR before. Anyone seen this before? Other mods include: It has an alloy middle exhaust which looks like a modified aftermarket tailpipe, it has a Colin Appleyard sticker on it. AND...no tailpipe. The swingarm looks to be Mk2 but is shortened slightly and the axle slot is open ended and the end of the swingarm. The stator output wires have been routed through the top of the case. I remember my first MAR back in 78 was always nipping the wires between the case and bashplate.

I have been wearing http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/McDavid-Flexy-Knee-Pad-Pair-Support-Protection-Padding-Sport-/181071358234?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item2a28b1a91a these for a few years now. They do leave a short unprotected area between pad and boot but work fantastic for old arthritic knees.

I have seen this before once when trying to tweek a friends carb. He had the throttle cable too tight so that the slide was not sitting on the idle screw. The air/mixture screw was also so badly adjusted that small changes had no effect.

Try Zone Trial for kits in Europe. I have found them to be very good and euro to pound is quite good now. http://www.zonetrial.com/ArticleDetail.aspx?langue=E&Modele=Complete+kit+of+stickers+Ossa+TR300i++factory+2013&Id_Article=8411

Have a read through some of the Gasgas manuals which have similar Marzocchi forks. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html

You can find them on Ray Crinson's facebook page.