longlegscanbeuseful

I use a combination of all the methods mentioned plus one other. Using the syringe to create a vacuum and gently crack the bleed nipple. The air travels much more freely than the fluid so should travel into the syringe first. Use a clear length of tube with fluid in between syringe and nipple for spotting the air coming out.

According to Facebook, he's on his honeymoon.

Hi Mark, I'm 6'5" and have kept the original bars and fitted S3 clamps. They give approx 1/2" rise over standard but you can move the bars forward without losing height from the rotation factor. I also made some simple 1" risers to fit between the S3's and the top triple clamp. http://www.trialswales.com/s3-bar-adjustable-bar-clamp-3075-p.asp Cheers, Gary

I had the same problems on my 350 and ended up switching to an OKO from a 250 gasgas. Never looked back, it runs sweet, the plug is always a nice colour and uses less fuel.

Not 100% sure but the original pegs look similar. They're useless for size 13 boots, barely go half way across the sole

I'm using modified Beta Rev3 pegs on my Gripper. A bit of hack sawing, bending and grinding is required to narrow the mounting tabs and shape the stops to get them to sit right.

I cut one from an old Ikea chopping board. Strong, flexible and easy to cut. http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/90202268/ Link is showing a white one but they are available in black.

Had a similar problem with a mikuni which turned out to be float height setting. The OKO is a pig for removing the float bowl and can easily bend the tangs if you're not careful. Have a look at this set up guide. http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/Instal.html

Ahh. that's probably the heads of the bolts which hold the stator in place. I had one break off so replaced them all with countersunk allen screws.

I got fitted some Barnett clutch plates too, (Thank you Woody for the recommendation) and can confirm they do make a big difference. I got mine from Speed and Sport last year. http://www.speedandsport.com/index.php/parts/drivetrain-and-tires/clutch-plates-fiber-barnett/

I have heard of the terminal breaking off the coil LT side. I would remove seat unit, top cover, bash plate and stator cover. Then check all electrical connections for water ingress and security. Under the tank can get clogged with mud and hold the moisture in, not sure any ignition related connections there but might drag the overall voltage down if theres any shorts. I know of one bike which stopped due to the fuel pump connector being corroded. Good luck.

Simple answer is YES. I've done it with both modern and twinshock bikes. However, the front end will not fit due to the height. For the modern bike I removed the rear mudguard and the front wheel, and rotated the bars downwards. If you take out one of the rear seats completely, the back wheel will drop nicely into that space. I then sat the sump on a small toolbox. For the twinshock I just disconnected the brake cable and dropped the forks+wheel complete. Mine is a seven seat version so the boot floor is a little bit higher than a five seater. It was fine for collecting the bikes some distance from home but I wouldn't fancy the chew on week in week out for going to trials, especially in the winter.

Thanks Guys, I already have a new half turned down nut ( both types available from In Motion). The old one's threads were worn flat from spinning round on the end of the output shaft after working loose. I think I'll go down the loctite route and keep an eye on it. Thanks again.

Hi, I'm looking for superior twinshock knowledge again. The front sprocket has a step (boss) on one side and flat on the other. Which way round should it go? I've tried looking along the chain line for an obvious visual effect but its really not clear. Also does anyone have any solutions for locking a 10 tooth sprocket nut as the tab washer is too big. Thank you.

Just to update and hopefully save someone else the headache in the future. I've had some conversations with In Motion and Talon who are working together to issue the TR-222 as a double drilled option. Big thanks to both for the information.

Stephen, thanks for that. I was sure it was an original hub, I'll get the drills out. Bonus is a lighter sprocket but a long way to go to get modern weights. I nearly had a hernia putting on the bike lift after the TR280i.

Hi, can anyone help me identify which rear hub I have my 350 Gripper. I thought it was original until I went to fit a new sprocket. The bolt holes don't line up on a Talon TR-222. The hub and original spocket have 6 bolt holes spaced as 3 pairs, the pcd is approx 150mm. The new Talon sprocket has the same centre hole of 130mm, the same layout of bolt holes but the pcd is approx 160mm. The only similar hub/sprocket I can find is a Montesa Cota but I dont the dimensions. If anyone has either of these lying around, and a spare five minutes to measure pcd and centre hole it would be much appreciated. Cheers, Gary

Adrian, have a ride up to Rogerley Quarry near Frosterley on Sunday, theres a map on the events page if you're not sure where it is.. There will be a few twinshocks there and the numbers will increase through the year as the weather warms up. Softies like me stick to the modern bikes in the winter. All the North East clubs do an easy route just right for twinshocks and all friendly helpfull people. You never know, you might even find something for sale. Cheers, Gary

I use some woolen inner gloves, I think I got them from Hein Gericke years ago. The beauty is you take them off once you start warming up, usually after the slow first lap.

a grand will buy you a very useable bike, it could also buy you a money pit. That's the band you're looking at so do your homework. Go to local trials and talk to people and take your time. This forum is full of good information. I would also recommend you keep a bit aside for some bar risers, I'm a little bit taller and little bit heavier (quite a bit older, but don't tell anyone) and find the standard riding postion very difficult on the back and neck. 25-35mm taller bars makes a massive difference. Good luck.

head west out of Frosterley for about 1/2 mile. Its on the right and it should be flagged, go through the gate and up the hill 400m. Or just park up in Frosterley and wait for a van or a trailer to go past and follow them in.

I had a similar problem caused by the previous owner adjusting the lever too much. Make sure you have a few mm's of play before the lever engages the pusher. I guess this stopped the brakes releasing all the way and allowing for further expansion when hot.

Excellent post, thank you Neil. Just one question, were at this one as well..? http://www.britishpathe.com/video/yorkshire-scott-trial

Years of Basketball took its toll on my knees and I really struggle without extra protection. I use http://www.mcdavid.eu/products/sportsprotection/Indoor-Sports/602/Flexy-knee-pad with Jitsie trials pants. They still give good movement with a reasonable level of bump protection but most important for me is that they keep the heat in my old knees.

I used to have one of these, very well made and the galvanised finished meant it didn't age at all. http://www.pendle-bike.co.uk/shopping/kliponoff-ws.php