bullylover

Hello all. A mate of mine has just bought a white tanked and green framed T 350 Italjet and he also has a green one as well. He wants to restore both of them to their former glory and I can`t find any mudguards in the original square shape. I am after both front and rear mudguards in white and green. We are also chasing 2 chainguards, one green and one black. I am also after the tank stickers and the hard plastic bits as well. The stickers are the T 350 ones. I also need a complete seat for the green one too. I know I can get green and white Goneli`s but the shape looks wrong. The white one has square goneli`s on it now but they still don`t look right. I hope someone can help. Bully Lover.

Hello sixstringsteve. Have you thought about a Spanish bike. A Bultaco Alpina or an Ossa Explorer or a Montesa Cota T. These were all trailised trials bikes with a larger seat and tanks. The Alpinas also had different gear ratios as well. They all make great trail bike for tight trails. Bully Lover.

Hello all. That really looks like a double row primary chain and a Pursang primary drive sprocket and weight to me as well. It very well could of come like that from standard. Bully Lover.

Hello James, I am the same as you in that I had a steel liner put in my rear hub and it is great. I think a cast iron liner would end up a lot more expensive because it is a lot harder to work with. I am not sure though. there must be a reason no one has made cast brake hubs for bikes apart from the weight. Bully Lover.

Hello all. Whoops! I did mean NJB shocks. I will use the excuse that I was half asleep. Bully Lover.

Hello Mikey_01. Try a set of NJS Experts as they seem to work well and are cheap. I have had a pair on my Sherpa for a couple of years now and they are still going strong. you can get them with 40 or 50 pound springs. Bully Lover.

Hello Bultoboy. The best way to make a Bultaco turn tighter is to file or grind the steering stops down. You usually have to shorten the tank bolt as well. You can also put longer shocks on it. Don`t change the steering head angle as the mudguard mounts will hit the frame and the mudguard will hit the exhaust. Bully Lover.

Hello all. The best twinshock brand is not shown in the list. Bultaco. Parts are really easy to get, easier than in the early eighties and they are reliable and work very well. Bully Lover.

Hello Mudferret. What you do is with the dial gauge or TDC gauge is have it at top dead centre and zero it then move the flywheel to about 4mm past TDC in a clockwise direction then come back anticlockwise until you hit 2.75mm BTDC or at whatever timing you have chosen to use. I hope this helps. Bully Lover.

Hello all. If you have to I would say someone would still have liners for this model. so if you can only get a barrel that is on it`s last legs that is not hopeless. Just stick a new liner in it. Bully Lover.

Hello Andrew. Have you thought of retarding the timing a bit to smooth it out. To do that you would make it spark a little bit closer to TDC. If the standard timing is 2.6 mm BTDC try it at 2.4 or 2.2 mm BTDC. This will smooth it out. Bully Lover.

Hello all. You could try Hugh Weavers in the USA. Just try googling Bultaco. Bully Lover.

Hello Andrew, The Amal side pull throttles are very good but I think they only come in one speed. But you can get Venhil cables for a Montesa with Amal so you will have the best of both worlds. I have a Domino on my Sherpa at the moment only because I broke the Amal at the Aussie titles in 2010 and all I could buy on site was a Domino. They have two throttle tubes that you can buy. A slow and a faster one. They are also cheaper but require more fiddling to get the throttle cable to work. Standard Venhil anyway. The Tommaselli`s are also very good. They came standard on most Italian bikes in the eighties. You really have to buy Chinese to get an iffy one. Good luck and I hope we get to see you up in Queensland soon. Bultaco`s are always smooth, just ask Ross. Bully Lover.

Hello all. A Bultaco front wheel never sits in the middle of the forks. They always sit closer to the non brake side. All of them do this even the TSS`s and the Metralla`s sit off to one side.Bully Lover.

Hello all. In the last two years I have had a 91,151,158,199,199A,199B,116,194,120,121 and an El Bandito apart and the only the El Bandito had a head gasket. It is starting to look like it is pot luck whether you get a head gasket or not.Bully Lover.

Hello Reginald. As far as I can remember the KTM fork seals were about $27.00 Aus.I got mine from a Team Moto shop in Ipswich and they were Ariete seals. I think the fork springs only come in one rate I think but they were about two inches longer than my old Bultaco ones so I have taken all of the spacers out of mine except for a small alloy one just over a quarter of an inch long. Bogwheel also bought a pair as well and he agreed with me, what a difference. Last but not least the NJB Trix Shox are different to the expert ones. The expert ones were cheap. I think the Trix Shox are also alloy. Bully Lover.

Hello all. I have to say that I agree with Dadof2 on this one. The reason that Bultaco`s feel woolly compared with later or Jap bikes is the fact they have twice as much flywheel weight in them. I love modifying bikes but I have never felt the need to add a reed valve to a Bultaco. I once owned a 158 that I had a 32 teeth per inch hacksaw blade cut/1/8 inch high in the intake side of the slide and it would idle at about 4 revolutions a minute and snap to full revs very quickly. I also know a bloke that has ten odd Pursangs and none of them has a reed valve. He has won numerous QLD Classic MX Championships and the only one he has tried a reed valve in was a 117 which is a mk 7 125 running on Methanol and he tried it and pulled it off. It has been sitting on his bench for about five years now. I think the only Pursang that had a reed valve from standard was the mk 15 which there is very few off in the world. Bully Lover.

Hello Reginald. If you are after Betor fork seals KTM seals to fit a SX 65 2002-2009 are the correct size and you only need one seal a side. For springs the best bet is Bultaco UK as they are a definite improvment over stock old ones. They also have dust covers in the round style instead of the one with the straight lines on them which might look a bit strange on a SWM. I have NJB expert shocks on my Sherpa which lean in at the top rather badly and they have lasted a full year or a bit more and they are still fine. They have a normal rubber bush in them. I have also used Fornaleas? as well and they had heim joints on them and they worked well but they wore out. They were put on the bike in the early eighties as well so it is not surprising. One other thing is the postage from England is usually a lot cheaper than from the US. Not sure why as they are both about the same distance away. I hope this helps. Bully Lover.

Hello all. Another thing is in Australia all of the VMX guys swear that the only fuel to use is BP ultimate as it is the most consistant fuel around. The octane rating goes up and down a bit in the others. Bully Lover.

Hello Feetupfun, I am not sure on the 198`s as I have never had one apart. I know the 158`s and the 182`s all had no head gasket. All the Pursangs from the MK 4 250`s did not have one either. There was a few that had one but I am not sure which ones. If it has the liner protruding from the barrel and a channel in the head then it does not use a head gasket. The 198`s were at the starts of Bultaco`s troubles so they might of been mixing and matching parts by then. I owned a 199 A in the early eighties which I could never buy rings for. It was not until the early 2000`s that a friend restored my old one and found out it was a 340. It should have been a 326. So yours having a head gasket does not surprise me one little bit David. Bully Lover.

Gidday Paul. No, the later Sherpas don`t have a head gasket in them, they use the top of the barrel liner sitting in a hollow in the head to seal. Bully Lover.

Hello all. Many years ago a company called Bultaco released their last model Sherpa T. These bikes had what looked like a cut down car seatbelt on the rear mudguard bolts to lift them up with. It was about an inch wide and sat above the mudguard by about two inches. Have a look for an original Photo of a Sherpa T 199B and you will see. Bully Lover.

Hello Ross. I was in contact with him just before Christmas and his email site was working. It did take a while before he responded though. Someone else might have had more recent contact though. Bully Lover.

Hello Bondy. The yellow Bultaco Tank stickers look really good on blue forks You have to trim the clear part of the sticker a bit on the ends but they do look good. Bully Lover.

Hello all. Yes slow pick up does sound like timing. I like a 199A around 2.8 BTDC. This makes them reasonably snappy. They are an old bike with very heavy flywheels so they aren`t going to respond like a modern bike. If I can remember correctly the 199A`s were supposed to be 2.9mm BTDC. If you want it really smooth use 2.4/5mm BTDC but at this they are a little bit sluggish. Experiment and find what you like. One thing is watch using old condensers as they often fail really soon. I always just go down to a local car shop and buy one around the same size which has a mounting hole in it and bolt it up. By old I mean as in age not use. I hope this works. Bully Lover.