bullylover

Hello CMC84, The Sherpa`s timing needs to be set with a dial gauge to get it accurate. The points gap is 14/16 thou or .35 to .45 mm. You don`t say which Sherpa you have so it is hard to tell you what timing to use but the later 250`s were 2.6 mm before top dead centre (M158 on) and the 350`s anywhere from 3.10mm to 2.2 mm BTDC. You just have to work out how you like it to run. It was said not to run the earlier 350`s (151 or before) at less than 2.5 mm BTDC Have a look in the owners manual or a workshop manual. I hope this helps. Bully Lover.

Hello CMC84. I would change the condenser, if it is still in the ignition backing plate I would put it up under the petrol tank where it runs a lot cooler. Then I would check the timing which sounds as if it is out as well. Then I would make sure the spark plug gap is at 15 thou (.40mm) and see how it goes then. Bully Lover.

Hello all. Drake,the easiest way to make everything lighter is to have a poo before every trial. Sure to lose 38lb`s easily. Bully Lover.

Reading this thread and no one has mentioned the plug lead and the connection with the plug cap as they often get corrosion in there so just pull the spark plug cap off and chop about 6/7mm or quarter of an inch of the end of the high tension lead and screw it all back up again at least this will take this out of the possible problems. Good luck. Bully Lover.

Hello all. Penno350, somewhere in the Bultaco forum here there is quite a lot of information on this subject. One of the solutions was to sand the tank down and use a hot air gun to heat it all up and this will bring back the shine. I don`t know if it works or not. I think there is also a few posts in the twinshock forum as well. Good luck and good searching. The standard tanks on the 198/199`s and the A`s were polyethylene and the 198/9B`s were polycarbonate and were painted. Bully Lover.

I can see the adds now. For sale: one Honda CRF ? only used once. Slightly damaged.

Hello all. MT13 Pirelli tyres were the tyre to use in the seventies All of the Spanish bikes had them on from standard but compared to todays tyres you would probably be better off with Chinese trials universals on it. Bully Lover.

Bondy, Just pull the headstay off loosening the head normally and then tighten the barrel nuts up just firm to put the motor in the other frame leaving the headstay off until you get it in the frame then bolt all of it up again using a torque wrench to get the correct tension. This is much easier than trying to put it in with the headstay attached. I am not sure if you can leave it attached anyway. No one I know has ever tried it. Bully Lover.

Hello all. I like using Gum Boots (wellies) as I ride on the balls of my feet and find proper boots to restrictive in the ankles. One thing no one has mentioned is the fact that trials boots have tread on them whereas MX boots are smooth soles. I know a couple of people who use enduro boots in trials as well. Trying to find grip with MX boots on wet slimey rocks is rather hard. Gum Boots are also really cheap as well but they don`t have the same amount of protection though. Bully Lover.

Hello all. Maybe number 40 is saying where the hell are his gumboots and funny hat. Bully Lover.

Hello all. On a Sherpa T I have found that if you use a gasket on either the ignition or the primary cases and you hit a rock or log it will split the gasket. I learned this the hard way many years ago. So now I only use Silastic (Silicon). Now if you hit something it tends to just move without breaking the seal. Bully Lover.

Hello Johnny. I have a picture of the chain side of a m80 in front of me and standard the chain tensioner is bolted to the front of the brake torque arm facing forwards. I would say they had a different spring than the rear facing ones.The photo I am looking at is on page 27 of Sherpa T the story. Bully Lover.

Hello all. I own a Bultaco Sherpa T and also race a mk 7 360 Pursang in classic motorcross so I find left side kick normal but I have no hassle starting a right side kick bike either. It is just what you are used to. I also have no problem changing from right side shift to left side shift so maybe I am just strange. Bully Lover.

Hello all. Just a remark on left hand start compared to right hand start. I own a Bultaco so to me left side kick is normal but if you think back to the seventies and eighties and even before a lot of the European bikes started on the left. Maico, Ossa and many Italian bikes all started on the left. It became normal to have right side kick after the Japanese got a lot bigger. The same as left side shift versus right side shift. Each side has its pros and cons. Bully Lover.

Hello jimsbeast2720. I don`t know to much about Montesa`s but what was the points gap after you changed the points. I think it should be 14 to 16 thou or .35 to .45 mm. With the condensers excess heat can damage them. The best bet with condensers is to use a car one of a similar size instead of the motoplat one as they are easy to get hold of and it helps to put them up under the fuel tank out of the heat. Remove the old one and splice into the wire going to the coil and join it up. Don`t forget to earth the condenser to the frame. I think the plug gap is important on the montesa`s as well. I am not sure what it should be but the Bultaco`s are 40 thou which might seem to be very close but that is what they like. They are Spanish after all. The timing is also very important as well and I don`t know what it should be but some of the montesa experts on here should be able to tell you. A different coil shape should not matter either as long as the resistance and other electrical measures match. Good Luck. Bully Lover.

Hello Bondy. I have been using a NGK B6EV in my Sherpa for the last two years or so. I think I got the last four in Australia though. You should be able to get a BP5EGV though as they use them in a lot of high performance cars. The thin electrode does sharpen the power on the Sherpas up. The iriduim plugs are also worth a look as well. There is a NGK website to look at but I am not sure of the address though. Bully Lover.

Hello all. I just want to say three cheers for the Australian! Well done.

Hello Rick. Welcome to this site from another Aussie. The Italjets were very good bikes in there time. I can remember in about 1981 they were the hot thing to buy. An Italian Bultaco! The only things to really watch on them were to ease into the kickstart stroke softly and slowly and don`t just kick the hell out of them or else they will break the kickstart shaft. Another problem was if they are ridden hard they could also break the steering stem but you did have to ride them hard like an A grader. Is your Italjet the one that was advertised on the Trials Australia site, if it is it looked very good, like it had hardly done any work. If you ride in the twinshock class in Aussie it is the same lines as the clubmen so there is nothing to radical in the sections. Most of them are easy with a few that you have to think about lines and stuff. Good Luck and enjoy. Bully Lover.

Hello mur, I`m not to sure on the footpegs but a common mod back in the day was to put Pursang footpegs on the Sherpa`s. They are not any wider but they are longer so more foot area. I have always just pulled the spark plug cap off when welding on a Bultaco of any type and never had any hassles. Good luck Bully Lover.

Hello all. Today I cut my exhaust open,the whole inside off, and cleaned it all out. The perforated tube in it was the same size as the header pipe. Tomorrow I will repack it and weld it up and see how it goes. Unfortunatly I can`t ride at the moment due to dropping a piece of ply on my big toe and breaking the end bone in three places, OUCH! Thank you for the help. Bully Lover. PS. Would still like to hear opinions on the swingarm mod though.

Thanks Woody, the photo`s are really good. They are the best ones I have seen of Vesty`s bike. You can see the rear engine mount in the last one of Vesty`s bike. I am still not sure if I should do that. The fact that my bike is already very modified is leaning me towards doing the mod.Decisions, decisions. Some more opinions would be good. As far as I know there is only five 198/199B`s over here so there is not much information on them. I can remember reading that it is supposed to give them a lot more traction. Bully Lover.

Hello all. OTF, just to side track your question a bit I have read somewhere, probably on here, that a good modification to Bultaco forks was to put Ossa damper rods in them and it stops them from topping out all of the time. As Bogwheel said just put them on and see what happens. As they say brute force and ignorance always works. Good luck. Bully Lover.

Thank you for that PShrauber. My Sherpa does`nt have the original clubfoot end on it. It is homemade by someone who knows what they are doing. It has an aluminium end on it that weighs about a quarter of the weight of a standard one. I am not sure what is inside it as I have not opened it up yet. It needs repacking as well. Going from memory does`nt the front box have two perforated tubes in it. I have not pulled a front box apart for about 28 or nine years so I probably am wrong. I will PM you for the articles as they do sound interesting. I was after the measurements of the rear engine mount as that would make it a lot easier to modify the frame as my rear frame already has the top shock mounts moved and the rear frame uprights moved forward at the top. As you can probably tell I think I have to much time on my hands. Thank you. Bully Lover.

Hello all, I am after some information about modifying the middle box on my Sherpa as I want to cut it open and repack it anyway. I have seen some mention of modifications to the middle box to improve the exhaust but no one has said what to do to them so if anyone knows could they post it on here. Photo`s would be nice. Also would anyone have the measurements and photo`s for a Comerfords/ Reg May rear engine mount for the 199B. The off season is almost here. The swingarm extension mods would be nice as well but I can work that out as I go. The engine in my 199B is a 151 engine. I just replaced the fork springs with some from Bultaco UK and the difference is unbelievable. The new ones were about two inches longer than the old ones and one of the old ones was a bit shorter than the other. It let me throw all of the spacers I had in the forks out as well. Very good improvement. So if anyone can help I would really appreciate it. Thank you. Bully Lover.

Hello Bondy, have a look at the previous post in this forum. Your answer is in it. Bully Lover.