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He was just turning around, happens all the time
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Kinetic energy motor is where it's at
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I didn't know dust did not exist in the UK But..... If dust is not in the UK then why are you cleaning the filter? And what are you cleaning out of the airbox? In my opinion, only snowmobiles and boat motors don't need air filters
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Ok start with: Pull the caliper and push the piston all the way back into the caliper and clamp it so the piston stays all the way in This pushes much of the the fluid back to the master and possibly the air as well Note: if you can make the caliper and hose uphill to the master so the air travels back with the fluid then do it Then bleed the master by pushing the pedal and then crack the banjo bolt, do it til there is no air coming out Then start to bleed the caliper, you can bleed the banjo at the caliper I have even removed the hose and held it up above the master so again the air goes uphill Squeeze the hose end between your fingers and pump the lever til clear fluid Squeezes out The quickly and carefully re attach the hose to the caliper Burp it at the banjo and bleed the caliper til it works
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.?...?Your call, it is your bike But the foam IS NOT the filter All it does is hold the filter oil in suspension The oil IS the filter So you may as well not run a filter at all if its not oiled
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Increasing spring preload will not make the spring stiffer, it can only change ride height The only way to make a spring stiffer is the increase the wire diameter or decrease the amount of coils So, the only way to make a suspension "Harder" as you describe it to replace the spring with one of a higher rate
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If you carb has a drain screw and a small spigot on the bottom of the float bowl, then connect a clear hose the the spigot and run it up the side of the carb Open the drain screw and see where the fuel level is I have an issue with static setting of the tab on the float tang It does not give you a specific reading of where the fuel is in the carb when it is fully assembled
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It's pretty much impossible for the idle screw to have no effect, it's mechanical and lifts the slide And I have never seen an air screw leak, it's drawing air How would you even know?
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Setting up all of that and editing it must have taken hours Thanks for posting, was nice to watch
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Adding more spring to a spring cannot make it stiffer, actually there is no way whatsoever to make a spring stiffer, you can only increase the preloadIf you want more rate then it takes fewer coils and or thicker wire, this means replace the spring entirely
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Riding style? I read a book that said "your bones and joints are the strongest things in your body" Meaning keep your joints straight and maintain balance Takes a ton of load of your muscles But I have tennis elbow, not sure if you have this but not much helps except rest
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Well for the record Great day snowmobiling yesterday, looks like a half meter of fresh soft snow on top of about 2 meters of hard snow, most of the places we rode had no tracks anywhere Spent the day on a 2015 Ski Doo T3, 165 hp, 174 inch track with 3 inch paddles Pictures don't do this sport justice, snow ain't all that bad!!
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If the caliper and brake fluid in particular are hot and then cooled quickly in water it shrinks and it is the opposite of hot fluid pushing up to the master as it expands, it kind of sucks fluid out of the master as it shrinks back so ye the lever can feel spongy when that happens
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That sounds like an unlikely cause unless it pushes the pads away from the disc and holds them there I have never seen it happen Brakes are pretty reliable as manufacturers can't afford the lawsuits
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What Lineaway said Cold chisel always works