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Something is fishy, these are tapered rollers so the bottom has no possibility of sticking, usually these just fall apart with no hammer necessary The top could only stick the stem to the inner race which is extremely odd and I have never seen it, if it were corroded you should be able to see the corrosion Can you see the inner race on the top bearing?, these are not press fitted to the stem, only the bottom is

Often I treat smaller or more simple obstacles like big obstacles just for the practice Sounds silly but it works

Well I did the mod to my 07 Rev, I have not been on a ride yet but I let it sit 2 weeks and for the first time when I put the bike in gear cold the bike did not stall, in the past it would stall at least once, maybe twice My original issue was that the engagement of the clutch was over a very short stroke and was difficult to modulate, it was like 7mm of lever travel, maybe a bit more I can't see how this mod will change that but it seems to be different but I have not got the bike up to full operating temp, oddly enough it seems to have a slight amount of drag now which I never had before but it still starts in gear so it's not that bad More to follow

I put a set of S3 risers on my beta, they let you move the bar clamp forward or backward as well, handy for personalization

Install a "spark gap tester" and ride the bike, it let's you increase the gap til spark fails and also ride with it installed, you can watch for loss of spark If you have spark but the engine is not running, then you do not have an ignition issue Simple

I practice this stuff by wheeling over small objects, little rocks and small logs, roots etc, even potholes in the road Once the technic starts to work you can start to work on height

That's not unusual, you would need to check it at full operating temp to see if thermal expansion changes it To diagnose end play knock or "thrust" we used to push the crank end at the nut with a hammer handle with the engine running and see if the sound changed

Disc brakes need to be zero clearance, sometimes a little dust will do that but I wouldn't pay it much mind unless there is a big chunk of gravel stuck in it, the pads have a sharp edge which tends to make them self cleaning

I use my engine as a antilock for the rear brake, seems like a lot of trials teaches pull in the clutch but I find I ride the rear brake and keep the engine at a constant speed with the rear brake, I find if the tire is rolling slowly it does not toboggan or plug with dirt and slip That seems complicated but usually just constant pressure in use your ear The front brake is just practice, I mess around on easy hills, try lifting the rear tire with the front brake, momentarily lock the front etc, it just gives you a better feel of the limit, after a while it becomes natural

They change jetting because they increase "signal strength" so it's possible they would improve lower mid range by increasing velocity The problem I have with boyesen reeds is that over time they gradually lose tension so they go back to what you had originally but now you have lean jetting Just keep an eye on your plug

can you tell us where this started? Were you just changing the fluid? Ochams razor means the simplest most obvious answer is usually the correct one This means If you were changing fluid and now you cannot get pressure, you don't need to rebuild anything All you do is make more questions

Those 2 guys are on par with each other talent wise There are no words to describe how good they are.

Firstly and most importantly never let air into the system unles you rebuild the caliper or master, if you change fluid just bleed down the fluid level in the master and then sop the rest up with a tissue, then add clean fluid and bleed it through If you have air in the caliper take the caliper off and Push the piston all the way back in This pushes everything back to the master Keep the piston in with a clamp and bleed as best you can Then pump the caliper full, pushing the piston out (make sure it does not fall out) Then push the piston back in, hopefully this pushes the air back out through the master, it will want to overflow Try this a few times, once you have a little pressure, bleed the banjo bolts Just never let the master suck air, I did that with my rear brake and it was a PITA Good luck

First step is always to eliminate things Find a "Spark gap tester", bottom line with this thing is it will tell you if you have a weak spark, you increase the gap til you misfire, it should jump 10 mm If it does, you do not have a spark issue, you can ride the bike with the gap tester installed, when you duplicate the problem, look at the gap tester If it does not: Do you know anyone else with the same bike? If so I would use "Peak Voltage" test on the pick up and power source coils, generally you need a peak volt adapter, any bike shop should have one No idea what voltage you should be looking for but that's why you need another bike, test the good one and compare to the bad one

Sometimes it's a good thing when something like that bends I don't know why but I've never hit my brake lever so much as my trials bike And I hit a couple of rocks where it stopped me dead LOL

Technically a pop in the exhaust means that there is both unburnt fuel and a near perfect amount of oxygen as well There should not really be enough oxygen in the exhaust to sustain combustion, nor should there be enough fuel It's possible there is a misfire that puts both of these directly from the cylinder into the exhaust, misfire can be from a bad plug, or oddly enough a lean condition can cause a misfire and is usually the cause, hence the pilot jet comments, and most often you do not hear the misfire, just the after fire (pop) Make sure you have no exhaust leaks as that can bring oxy into the exhaust

Ask Steve Fracy about this, he and his son Matt use them

Right on, Red dragons !! I had!nt heard that version of ninja flying eagles

I didn't know they were using a SOQI rear shock on those That's a Japanese Ohlins, I don't know if cooking the res on the engine Is a great idea LOL

Oohhhhh the singer in the first vid flips a few of my switches Probably real bad news which appeals to my poor taste in women

I use the engine to keep me from locking the rear brake You don't need to let rpm build high, you just need to keep the tire from locking Seems like trials likes to teach pulling the clutch in and skidding the tire but the old dirt biker in me can't do it

I don't even bat an eye at people who wear armor I do look a little odd at people who don't I will never forget my knee injuries, knee cups/pads are a minimum for me

Good that you found some ways to tweak the bike to fit you better I have seen a lot of times where a rider won't really try to adjust their riding style to suit a different bike, they do the same thing and then don't like the bike Actually a lot of riders don't go out and simply practice It's hard but you need to pick one thing that doesn't feel right and just practice that for a bit, then pick another and do it again Form new habits I'd sure like to try a 4 stroke to see what it does different

That sounds good to me, they always have a loping downrev due to the heavy flywheel and clutch and they fire on the down rev as well which is different from a 4 stroke Set your air screw and idle on the trail after the engine is full temp There is no exact setting, use your ear, you just set it with your finger anyway

Increasing the octane will likely cause a loss of power I noticed my 07 is a bit sensitive to fuel, if it's even 2 weeks old I get a detonation at higher rpm with mid throttle openings Fresh fuel is a lot better but is still has a minor tendency to ping Richer on the needle helped a bit, I will try richer on the main, I suspect it's just the wrong needle or needle jet that is the cause