I have now drained the forks and taken the parts out of each leg and cleaned out the insides. I have put everything back together and refilled each leg with 360ml of 5wt oil screwed the caps back on and bounced the forks up and down as it says in the manual, it then says to unsrew the right hand cap to release the trapped air. I have done this but couldn't hear any air coming out.
Am I doing something wrong!
Andy.
Seals are more like a one way valve, they keep the oil in the fork but they are not real good at keeping stuff out so after a while they tend to suck air in and a slight amount of air pressure develops, it's like adding spring preload
So you bleed the pressure off
I don think it's much of a deal on a trials bike but dirt bikes it's pretty important, old bikes had Schrader valves on the caps, you can buy bleeders for new dirt bike forks, some have a little screw
LOL, I'm gonna go drop my fluid levels to lower the weight of my bike
Having worked for a manufacturer for over 15 years I can tell you they have politics, joint agreements with oil manufacturers, warranty and other things to consider
Conservative jetting and oil ratio are only 2 examples that apply to this conversation
I bet the oil ratio the engine designer runs in his own bike would vary from the info the compliance department directs the literature department to print in the owners manual of brand X bike
(Note: this does not apply to the Japanese who would not vary from manufacturers reccomenation)
Dadof2 is 100 % right in his comments, it may not work for me and others but is working just fine for him just like higher ratios are working for others, lots of people are right on this subject
Harley riders use their middle finger a lot too..... Wait not so much for clutching though...
I agree it helps a lot to move the perch over so you have more leverage on the master and the end of the lever has more range of motion as well, easier to modulate engagement
Tape your middle finger to the next one so you can't use it, it will help to break the habit
Low speed jetting, (pilot and needle) are all related to signal strength, basically suction at the Venturi
If a pilot needs to be richened after reed install that means the reed is opened further and the amount of vacuum is decreased, so larger pilot is required to get the same amount of fuel through it
The reverse is true, greater vacuum requires smaller pilot
It's the same if a large bore carb is fitted, larger jets are required as vacuum is reduced
The angle on the slide also changes vacuum at the Venturi
Man do I ever find it hard to believe that someone would finance such an endeavor
Too many major brands in such a small market
At best they will make something that is as good as what you can buy today at the same price
It's not good enough to make and excellent bike, thats already been done
I think there is room for something other than high end competitors to Beta, gas gas etc
Perhaps reasonable quality but inexpensive entry level machines or a great development of electric models perhaps, or even cheap modern retro twin shock bike
Ya I used to have one just like that, it was an Italian model and was the rattle was very dramatic
I knew the newer version I had would end up exactly the same as it was exhibiting similar symptoms and costing me a lot of money so I got rid of both of them a few years ago
Well it started first kick with the wires in there new position when in the past it's all ways been 2nd attempt so let's hope it stays that way and that's the end of it.
I assume it was earthed when I had the kill switch and Cdi earth clamped on the regulator fixing stud at first then lost its path that's the only reason I can think of why it worked for a short period of time.
Like I mentioned in a previous post I linked out the kill switch and Cdi earth terminals with a separate wire which isn't shown in the wiring diagram yet it sparked without it which I think its a good move as where the Cdi earth tag was located when I got the bike and is again now doesn't seem very good spot to me unless I'm misunderstanding its purpose.
I haven't filed any anodising off or used any heat sink paste or star washers which I will if I got to go in there again.
Anyway I hope that's it and there isn't a intermittent fault lurking and it's just coincidence it's sparking again after moving the Cdi earth.
I think so I don't think it was the new kill switch as much as the brown earth wire coming from the Cdi yet not shown on wiring schematic not being connected to coil where an earth is shown on the wiring schematic whether there using the bracket the coil bolts on to as a earth and the brown gets ground anywhere I'm not sure.
I ran it in the garden yesterday afternoon for a while and all seemed well but it's going to have to wait until Saturday for a real test.
That ll teach me for skimming the post and not paying attention
When you have a Rod failure you take it apart because it stops running or is making severe knock, when a rod goes it stops running in well under a minute
What happens is the lower rod bearing and cage come apart and migrate up the transfer ports, the debris catch between the edge of the piston and the cylinder and there is baaaad damage, long scratches above the transfers, it's generally fairly large pieces not tiny dust size stuff
Also the piston and head as well as the spark plug get sandblasted, often the debris closes the plug gap stopping the engine, the bearing, cage and thrust washer are extremely hard material compared to the aluminum piston and head
It does however look in the photo to have a lot of light vertical scratching in the bore but I don't know if it's just reflection or not, need a naked eye on that
If the light scratching is there it's probably more poor air filter maintenance than rod bearing failure
Edit: Ya after a second look there is a great deal of scratching in the bore but again, more likely to be dust ingestion or perhaps ring end gap is too tight (called ring butting) often it does more damage than that though
Re using a head gasket is probably ok but it's got properties that only are meant to work once, crush and adhesion for instance
I would use a sealant with an adhesive property, remember many gasket sealants become lubricants at high pressures
Never heard of grease on a gasket, I have always believed in clean and dry to make the surfaces mate, grease would do the opposite and make them ever stick to each other
I think a trials bike is probably a hard engine to get jetted right, might be different for different people
I would be happy with a carbon spot of almost any size on the piston crown, yours is clean or washed down
The theory is for power reasons you need your combustion temperature and therefore piston crown temperature to be high enough to burn the fuel mix onto the crown
Rich means cooler temp, lean would put carbon to the edge of the piston
Obviously this is easier on an engine run at full throttle at controlled temperatures and atmospheric pressures, loads etc
There are about a million variables making jetting a very unique to location and rider kind of thing
And compounding this you need to set your main first and then your needle, your pilot always flows fuel but only has a minor effect on needle and main circuits
At least 20 seconds at above 3/4 throttle with moderate loads and pull your plug immediately should put you on the right path for main jet setting and then same time at 40 - 60% throttle to set your needle
Make a mark on your throttle housing and grip with whiteout so you can judge opening
Thanks for the info, engine testing is very interesting stuff, do you do this kind of work?
I like to see how and why things happen in engines, amazing how subtle changes make radically different results
Q: for curiosity reasons, were the engines air cooled? (Chainsaw)
On a waterbrake dyno (rpm controlled by load or electronically limited)
Was there any detonation (detonation applies shock wave loads to rings, damaging ring land etc etc)
I remember reading about Jeremy McGraths Honda CR from 2004 era and they were running 24:1 if I remember correctly but that engine was somewhere in the neighborhood of 70hp and run about as hard as an engine could be run, these factory engine builders are full of secrets so there is no way to know what makes an engine like that survive at that power level
Bike Wont Start And Petrol Coming Out Exhaust
in Gas Gas
Posted
It's either that or you poured your gas into the silencer outlet, read the owners manual
On the good side your exhaust is getting a good cleaning
It's a Leaky needle, you shouldn't travel with the fuel turned on but it should not leak anyway