lbhbul

Please excuse the wrong pilot jet size I printed out , our sort of stuff would be for the 26mm Mikuni usually 35/ 50 pilot size. Thanks. Larry

Please excuse a fellow whose having some health problems but I am very old but have run Bulls for MANY Years, I will share my knowledge to try to help. (1) Never trust the new CONDENSER you can buy!! Add an automotive condenser beneath the tank!!! (2) The carb looks Mikuni 26mm from locally, 100/120 pilot jets, 100/130 main jets. (3) Timing, 2.8mm or pluss a little BTDC. firing. (4) No idle on the throttle, start engine choke on , should start, let it warm up before trying to ask questions about leanness, Please trust you have the BEST ENGINES ever !!!! Good Luck Larry

Tom, wherever you got the spokes new from I pray they have the real deal going on, mine come from this county & really fit , but you friend should be on the proper leg. The dims I gave you early came from my m199 original, if you don't cross the spokes 3 times as orig. then I don't know any other way,I still work in American measuring on wheels that are not bent. Larry

Hi, new friend!! It certainly appears that you have new stainless spokes & wherever it has been re-spoked they have failed to record the original offset & get things true again,the proper distance from the brake brake drum face to the edge of the rim needs to be recorded before the re-spokeing starts to maintain the distance properly. I don't have one torn down or I would be glad to give you the dims. Perhaps someone has wheels down & can measure the offset to help you. If no one can help I will pull my wheels and pass on these dims. Larry Went out and measured front wheel on my m199, 1.150 inch from LH edge of wheel, Rear wheel, 1.600 from RH edge to flat below top edge on each wheel. Hope this helps. Can't get to the brake drum without tearing down sorry.

Neil, not a bad plan on the reassembly, you have trans in the LH case as desired, put the spring loaded detent soon. Be sure you rewind the kick shaft 1/2 min turn against the return spring , whoever your friend is knows all this so please excuse me for this preload of the spring, if you have a bearing on the mag side that there is movement, that is rare for me, but any thing is possible. I always use the necessary C3 bearings, usually Japanese KOYO I believe & have very good luck, I have only built 4 this Spring & no problems, so good luck to you at all times. Larry

NEIL Your friends will be here to help. I use an old Clymer manual, it will be of great help, the best is you are on a 5 speed Bultaco & for me they are the BEST. Good Luck Larry

Mark Please be sure to put it in your existing rod & try the wrist pin to ensure it will go thru. Larry

Please check your PM.Welcome to TC Larry

Looks like a pretty good deal & they say the seals are good, my only advice will be to shorten the spring in the seal by 1/4 inch prior to installation. Not my original idea, came from a friend many years ago & I find it very successful with my work. Have a nice day Larry

Neil, as I see by your photos , no auto condenser under the tank as we discussed, I take it you have a new Femsa mess!! Please do the electrics as we discussed. Please don't sweat the seals. Have a nice day. Larry

Neil, Have you updated your ignition as we discussed (I think) condenser under the tank ect. ?? E mail if needed. Larry

Little late with this post in regard to your #32 post, the carb has MIC on it which goes along with my latest project, Suzuki rl250,s which there are 2 in the shop now, when doing a jet change I noticed the MIC on them along with "made in Japan" these two are original & I don't know if China was into producing a Mikuni copy in 1974. From the pictures you have posted the carb is to far away for me to see properly, you can pretty much tell by the internals what it is. Have a Good day Larry

Well I used the 236cc measurement and it seems OK, without a spring & fully collapsed it measures @ 6 1/2 inches from the top, I had heard over the years & again yesterday from my friends that approx. 6 inches is very common. Got one of the two I am working on (rl250) out today in our warm 98/99 degree & rode a bit, just enough to get up to operating temp. & find the 35 pilot is a bit rich so maybe tomorrow a 30 will be installed, 2 1/2 turns I don't like well. The carb is reduced from 28mm to 24mm, & a 2 lb flywheel weight added. Have a nice day Larry

Ed The marks are usually from someone marking it prior to removal so as to have a ref. point when replacing it after removal possibly to replace the seals. As to removing the screws, I would suggest laying the bike down as close to level as possible & penetrating oil over night, then a good screwdriver, next heat (soldering iron maybe) ,next a hand impact screwdriver, & hope they come loose, (I've never broken a screwdriver here). As to the case problem, it needs to not let water in, I just finished the case & the side cover on a m185 that had big time chain damage using fiberglass resin & cloth. Hopefully you will get things going your way soon!! Hope this photo will help with the condenser discussion earlier. (My wire color is terrible, but they get there) Larry

Ed the condenser I have used to my satisfaction is , 1970 Ford 302 ci, there are many options,I believe there is very little difference with the exception of a way to mount @ the coil location & if my stupid computer would cooperate I would post a photo, it is not necessary to remove the original from its location, the worst thing to do would be to replace with a stock condenser. As we know the black wire is the hot wire , green is ground (usually this way), what I know about electrics testing is very small, but have had a bunch of experience with the Bulls. Clean/file the points, hook things back together, roll the engine with the kicker by hand , be sure to install the Ford condenser, black wire, black coil wire, condenser, mounted/grounded. Good Luck Larry