lbhbul

Christiank, Have sent you a PM hope it will help. Larry

Have noticed a problem with after market points here, in that the rub block is so much longer than my originals that it is necessary to grind the block to match (close enough) in order to be able to utilize the eccentric adjusting screw, don't have any new points on hand so cant help there, however the new Femsa condensers for me are a no go. Someone will know for sure on the length. Interesting though. Larry

For what it's worth I have used with great success for many years on any points ignition encountered, comes from most auto supply house's; Ford 302 ci/5 liter from 60/70's era, condenser mounted @ coil mount under tank. GOOD GROUND REQUIRED. Larry

Barfy. Check motor mounts. You can pull the mag cover & check for movement. Those engines have very robust bottom end. Larry

Bondy, Very nice machine, now you need to get it dirty. Smelling, Looking good, you take good care. Larry

big_e, Hope you can show us what it looks like now. A good spot would be on thread Tell Us About The History of your Bully I am sure we would all enjoy the story. PS Silly me, nice bike. Larry

Trum, 0.35 to o.45; .013 to .017 is correct per the manual,however it is not law IMHO. Point setting with flywheel in place is a pain, best done w/bike laying down. Don't know why it wont fire @ spec setting, But if we are firing somewhere in tolerance timing wise, so be it.(as long as it fires)!! You are probably going to move the backing plate if you are to far out of spec to MAINTAIN the point gap you now have.(a little point gap change= lot of timing change) Be sure when removing & replacing flywheel have key way @ 6:00 so as not to bump points with cam. Larry

Trum, If it is running, leave it alone for now.(trial tomorrow) You do have an automotive condenser under the tank??? Next week, time it close with dial indicator/or vernier gauge. Something is amiss, you don't say how close the points are. Good luck tomorrow. Larry

Agree with milling,but as noted difficult to set up. I made the mistake of having one welded (only because of polished 151 case) now we have messed up threads for clutch adjustment plug! Luckily have a mill & lathe so can fix this mess (hardheaded). So I wont weld anymore, to many covers to be had out there. Fix the black covers as Patrik shows. Larry

I would guess that the wet or dry paper fixed to a nice flat surface & lots of elbow grease is a for sure way to get it flat. A way of repairing Bull cases that has worked forever is a clean inside surface,roughed up well, & a polyester resin & glass patch in place of welding when possible. Wont fix your problem very well now, but in the future. Larry

The short answer is no, however do some machine work ect, on a young mans M 199 Sherpa T that I know has been to your riding area in NATC rounds. We are currently working on a better rear brake & a freshening up on cosmetics. Lane has been here riding several times along with others,the local club hosted 1977 National less than a mile away Good luck with the SM project & keep us advised on the fun. Larry

Woody, Are all those fine examples in your collection? Maybe a lot of good stories with all your experiences. Thanks in advance. Larry

Not that familiar with 348's but would suppose the mag side would be LH threads as with 247's ect. Someone will know for sure. Larry

Well I agree about the Miller pedal being not to whippy! That is a Bull pedal with silly holes and chromed along with a stock M 92 swing arm (except shock mounts) as when the broken frames were replaced the swing arms & brake pedals were not. Larry

Fine job to say the least!!! Really looking good, the air box choice is good as the works riders seemed to prefer them instead of the poor quality plastic used on our bikes. I believe I see a VM26 Mikuni, also the better choice in my opinion. Now you must go for a proper test ride & please report back. Larry

Scott, The Mod 92 does have Miller frame #29x, it was I think 1 of 3 around here in 1973 that broke the front down tube @ the lower edge of the gusset, I traded a titanium rear axel for it, tubed inside & welded back, cut the gusset per factory spec. and off we go. Had to do something to dampen the shaking engine (no head steady back then) so after engine mounts started cracking, added a turn buckle from front head bolt to frame gusset, stopped that foolishness. It lives @ my son's home now. The old truck 75 3/4 Chev. bought new, bike hauler ect. Larry

Speaking of Model 92's that will pull your arms off, this one has a fresh lower end & second over bore. It used to be mine but now belongs to my son, however dad is his mechanic. and#160;

Before you complete the task, I am certain from your post mag case is not vented & it MUST be or it will sweat & cause the above moisture problem, further please clean the points, clean business card in narrow strips, small screw driver to separate points, do not let points snap and grab a bit of paper; lastly, I'm sure you have an automotive condenser under the tank. Almost forgot NGK Iridium plug for long life. Have a good day Larry

[ attachment=14930:Picture0114151936_1.jpg]Just one of the girls standing out in the sun with nothing to do.

Greeves To help answer your question; checked for ally nipples as follows; m49, m92, m199, 199a, would guess more but these were at hand. Don't know what after market might be, probably some sort of 400 series stainless (magnetic). Original spokes non magnetic.(mine anyway) Hope this helps. Larry

Wish I could have seen a B model, they just weren't around here, so A model is the latest & not to many of those, don't remember any 250's after Model 92 325's were here, (got to have a beast), they were & are arm pullers still as compared to our 199's (different head design I guess) as the later bikes seemed to be softer on the bottom but I think they would rev a little higher, bore, stroke, piston same, (later 325 cases used a longer intake skirt). Now we can use some of the Pursang pistons, ah the beauty of Bultaco engineering!!! Larry

Well I guess there is nothing left to do but to tell off on myself again as apparently all is quiet out there??? Received a present in the mail recently 20 years of twin shock 65/85 , lots of pictures, as I and my riding buddies came from dirt bike backgrounds we wore lace up tall lines mans leather boots, needless to say not to whippy for walking wet sections, so in looking at all the great pictures of the European riders of that era reminded me of the hot setup for us, Genuine Dunlop Steel Toe/Steel Shank Trials Boots (so we thought) now we know Fire Mans Boots, but at the time we were cool, nice & dry but boy, cold & could you ever hurt yourself. Top off with a Belstaff jacket, no hat,(had hair then),now this came prior to our first REAL TRIALS BIKE, and our waterproof riding jacket was an old hunting coat. The first Bul in our little group, well worn M49 that we all loved, and that started the Love Affair. Larry

What an enjoyable thread, some really good advice & knowledge from many folks. Larry

Very nice build you have going, have watched & read with great interest. Keep up the good work. Larry

You will come to love the Bul, properly set up, front end , rear end & tires, the bike will do the rest. You are already ahead with the Mikuni, looks like a side main 24mm, don't let this put you off on carb size as they came new with a 25 mm Amal,( it got lost real quick). 24 Mikuni still there pulling hard. Still have them 92 I bought new. Where are you located?( May have missed this) Good luck,M 92 will reward you. Larry