lbhbul

Had a problem similar w/Dellorto PHBL, was not fully applying choke lever. (rich mixture device) Luck; Larry

Just food for thought; Wide footpegs on my modern bike sometimes hinder me when I need to dab (quite often) as I cant seem to get my foot loose (awkward too). Bul not so much problem. We all seem to stay stock. they still work well. Larry

There isn't any magic to points ignition; if its a little early you might get kicked; really late run backward easier. Don't trust newer Femsa condensers!!! Add a real automotive condenser and forget it. A little dielectric grease on the cam, of great importance turn crank key down before applying flywheel. Get timing close and go ride it. Larry

Darren, Please refer to post this site today. POINTS SETTING. Larry

Well guys we have not heard anything since the holidays, surely something went on interesting. As for me checked out for a friend 2 Mikuni's; 24mm flange mount & 26mm snout mount on my 199 prior to mailing them off, that all went well, 199 ran as usually does (fine w/both) sent them off to my friend and therein lies the rest of the story, I will let him tell it from here. (learn something new everyday) watch this space & please contribute. Thanks Larry .

If you grow weary trying to stand on your head and pulling the flywheel off, set the plate about in the middle & check again, you can then move the point gap slightly to achieve somewhere close to 2.75 goal. (don't have to be perfect) Laying the bike down while going at this helps. Please be sure to add a proper condenser under tank. (not an oem please) Good Luck Larry

Feetupfun, That's it. Now all you have to do is get one away from the current owner. By the look of all the trials tires someone has quite a stable! Have a nice day. Larry

Bultaco Adventures; 1970 a 100 Lobito came my way, changed a bit & made a nice trials bike for my 10 year old son to compete on locally. 1973 m92 followed me home, then a Miller frame (broken front down tube) no step for a stepper, really had a great time on the finished project. 1980; m199 came along (used & abused) LH brake (my preference) cut frame rear knee knocker off, bottom frame & replaced w/ .250 7075 T6 alloy plate, of course couldn't help but have it chromed, new plastics,same old cruddy plastic tank. In a moment of weakness sold both in 1993. As luck would have it my son located both & brought them home in 2004, we started riding again in my old age, been fun. (glass tank now) Thanks for the thread!!! Larry Nigel think Alp setup maybe.

Sounds very familiar as stated above, not unusual, your lever may be a tad tight (adjustment) or just not as I find at times, just not kicking smartly when cold or rider tired. If you don't hear grinding or clunking it is just a normal thing. Larry

Iconic, Keep your 40 lb springs for experimenting, you may find that you like it softer. Bisby & B40 have it right; you need to bottom out on occasion to utilize the rear end. Softer is always more controllable; let them do their job. Larry

I don't know SWM well but if as Stan pointed out, if they don't maintain a straight line top to bottom, then you will probably need to spacer them to get as near as possible to straight alignment. The help here is great, (knowledge) stuff you can use, it will help, and rear will be better smooth & easy than harsh. Larry ,

Certainly no expert here, just a lot of running thru the rocks & such (Bultaco mostly), B40 has the experience on SWM. That said, you could certainly benefit from experimenting with the shock mounting, we stood them up nearly straight on earlier bikes which made for more softness with stock springs(maybe 50 lb) which also changes the geometry slightly. You will be hard pressed to get it to feel like your Beta, but it is a twin shock and as such enjoy & learn as you go. Larry

Currently experimenting with Alp rear wheel, will report on completion. I don't believe anything can compare to rod operated rear brake. My personal preference LH brake. Mind over matter. The reason for the RH question I don't think we saw this until legislation here caused it. (Mod 199) Larry

What have you done to the tank, it really looks good? Nice job. Do tell us what you have done to get a RH brake. Larry

Lorenzo, If you care to look @ Twin Shock forum here on TC under " Wes Exhaust For Sherpa T" you can see an example. Currently adapting late Alp rear wheel to NATC riders 199, it however will retain LH shift. No more cable. Larry

Paul, Has it ever ran somewhat correct recently? Larry PS Did you ever try your Fantic OKO per earlier post on ignition?

Paul, what I said about condenser: I prefer Ford 302 (68mod) mounted to the coil bracket, I never worry about the original being in place (been doing this since 1973)& contrary to popular belief run resistor plugs (Iridium best) no problems on our 3 Sherpas, this is only me. The automotive condenser is the only one I trust. Have a good day Larry

?????? Larry.

Paul, Please add an automotive condenser, 302 Ford from your local parts store.(works for me) Mount it to coil bolt under the tank,lead wire goes to little wire (black) on coil. You should have a good coil from the Sherpa you can try next. Doubtful if you have a fuel problem (carb) don't just go bad all of a sudden. OEM condensers seem to be junk over here. Good fire & your troubles will lessen. Larry

Hello, All my Sherpa Ts, have the split sleeve lhs & counter bore rhs in the sliders. (92& 199). Sounds like you may have Alpina sliders & Sherpa stanchions (re knurl) @ lower clamp position. That said, the axel is probably loose in rhs also. You have access to lathe & mill as do I so a little time is involved. Maybe Sherpa lhs split sleeve will fit, now only rhs to deal with. Only my thoughts good luck. Larry

Paul, Good to hear you are making progress,so many times threads just leave us hanging. It is pretty easy to bump the points when installing flywheel, I don't think any manual really points out to turn the crank to prevent contact between cam & rub block. Hope you have luck. The Iridium plug has served us well, & the condenser is a no brainer to not have. (leave the original,wont hurt) PS OEMs don't seem to be good quality of late; if the mag isn't vented sealing up not good. Hope it starts. We will be here. Larry

Sadlotus, Have we made any progress? Lots of interest, please let us hear from you. Rest assured I will not recommend anything that I don't use myself. Larry

While we are trying to get the old girl going, is it maybe flooded? Put the mag cover back on & with a good dry plug of your choice, holding throttle wide open & give it a kicking go & see if it will a least pop. Still, better add the condenser, we haven't touched on this possible flooding problem. (my friends suggestion) Only a suggestion to dilemma. Larry

Why not?

Next time try chucking on flywheel puller and center in tailstock maybe. At least you wont wear it. Have a nice day Larry