lbhbul

Cosmo, Unless there has been a long 6m screw turned in against the damper they should only be stuck to the bottom of the slider with accumulated gunk or corrosion. Damper assembly the damper is secured in leg by a circlip, the slider comes off after the bottom 8m allen head is removed. Be sure to replace the O-Ring seal. Larry

Sean , I have never heard that before, my 2001 is certainly an Edition version (Pre 2002 Pro). To each his own. Larry

Hario, might think about laying her down on the LH side and using a (mine are 3/8 drive) allen sockets & a hand impact wrench (if they have not been removed lately) they are very tight and soft. 6 bolts & you can have all the plates for examination, be sure to note position of pressure plate to clutch hub. Good luck Larry

Sean; for what its worth, my own bikes Dexron ATF. Larry

Robbie, I don't think so, not into alloy welding, can barely do anything correctly the first time any more, just keep messing about. Larry

Chris, PM sent.

Per Graham (O-Ring), when you say "poor compression" this is hard to understand with a fresh 325, cant tell from the photos whether the primary side seal retainer holds 1 or 2 seals (1 spring to crank/ 1 to clutch side), the next thing is a pressure test , you would think the thing would a least fire with a little fuel down the spark plug hole. I believe I can find a photo of Saw Millers pressure set up. Good luck Larry

Sean, Have at the present time a 2001 TXT 280 ( 10 years) same engine as yours,great reliability, was a little to quick for me , went to a 10 tooth sprocket which made it better. I hope your oil is not milky (coolant) which is not conducive to good clutch operation. Does the bike jump when cold and gears are engaged? Larry

It sounds like maybe the new carb is not getting much fuel (float valve)? Not familiar with tickler & a choke, do you see fuel coming out of the weep hole when the tickler is held down? If so then cover the hole with your thumb to get fuel in the proper place. My experience with Amal concentric's ; you must be careful when tightening the top as it is easy to warp things and then the slide hangs up. Be careful with your fresh rebuild. Larry

Doesn't seem to be much going on in our Bultaco community,so we will tear a mid muffler up and put it back together. Spot welded? My first ever, also welded to perforated tube? [ now to get it packed and back together [ all brazed up All done Have a good day Larry

Don't pretend to know anything about Greeves; that said its still a 2 stroke. With all the good work you have done it would appear the new carb is a piece; if as you say it's "wooly" off the bottom I suppose its rich/lean? I am not a fan of Amals as I have no luck and no patience some folks have good luck however. Best of luck Larry

Dan , was working on a Sherpa T fork leg today and saw your post, so I took a damper out so you could see what all was there. Just finished up the front end on a M199a, 180cc Dexron, (no topping out/clunking) period. Hope this helps.

Good photos, glad you figured things out. Your bike has some interesting features that make it better in my eyes; M159 style air box , LH brake pedal, original style tank, early SM rear brace on front fender, (I should have done this) prevents bashing M199 brace into down tube. Very nice machine. Larry

The main difference between 199, and 199a I believe is , the 199a has 3 main bearings, 199 has 2. The LH case with bottom drain is common to earlier m159 and forward and the problem would only be clearance on the skid plate used on 199a bikes. There would be no mechanical problem encountered with the earlier LH case. Hope this helps Larry

Well guys the saga of the Blue Bultaco continues, on to fork seals, started out OK but then became complicated; sticky/stuck rather badly its the RH here we go got to fix this or junk it all better now I'll finish up the rest of the story later. Larry

Yesterday trying to get myself going after several hours Friday helping my good friend to sort out the kicker on a MAR & chain tensioner/brake cross shaft repair, back on the 199a project. Not much but safety wire clutch and refit case, 300cc Dexron , change tank bolt configuration. stock tank bolt maybe cleaner

Well maybe not much going on out there?? Made a little progress since last time, not a whole lot for most, but for me enough sitting on rolling seat to do me, and also stopped to help out a friend and do some machine work yesterday . Add a condenser Up on the lift for a little clutch work Now we can get it to where its easier to work on. Larry

SM offers a universal tensioner similar to the one shown, would require a tab to be welded to swing arm cross member. Larry

Yes I did use a product that is available here but maybe not where you are, I have a friend who uses Caswell, to good end. The whole thing depends on how clean you get the tank prior to lining that makes the job good or not. I do not use any Ethanol, however modern fuel, and polyester resin, NOT GOOD!!! But back to my Blue girl--- On the way to turn on the air 9:00 am (east; right in the sun) Little later in cool shop More later as I'm old and slow Larry PS That head steady don't look right??

Just a note to any use of after market dished sprocket; I hope you have a machinist handy.

It is quite an adventure to open a tank , and it also takes a certain amount of nerve, also kind of scary. I have done so on more occasions than I wanted to, but such is life with old machinery. By the way the chain guard looks really good, I have always wimped out & paid for the SM, good work. Mod 49 tank putting back can be a bother!! Naturally this was a painted tank that I messed up the first go around All good now Hope this helps Larry

Hello folks, 94 degrees, 50+%humidity. Summer in Oklahoma after all the recent flooding rains, now hot & humid. Now this little fellow wanders into the shop today thinking why don't we do some maintenance; fork seals, wheel bearings, timing check, and whatever else we might need done and to get old folks off his butt. More to follow as time allows. Larry

Rob, mod 80 Bultaco has a counter bored head and a raised liner and does not require a gasket or sealer, if the head continues to seep, it will have to be machined or replaced. Seepage is dirty not life threating. Larry

Rob, Welcome first! If you are referring to a 1972 Mod 91 ( engine s/n 91xxxx) Then a safe nbr that I use is 12 to 14 ft lbs. I don't have my manual at hand but you will be safe there as I use it for all my work. Larry

If its the same type clutch as I have fixed on Shercos, Betas,Scorpas in the past, clean the glue up then do this very simple (hour or so) fix, finish off with my choice only Dexron ATF. Not fancy, thread file 10 or 11 pitch, 3 strokes each pad. Try not to go to deep, all we are trying to do is add radial grooves to help break up the sticktion and sling the oil out. Try it you will like it. Shaky old camera hands, sorry about that. Larry