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Remembering back to my last encounter with an Amal carb, an old way was to hold your thumb over the tell tale hole to prevent washing the engine and putting the fuel where it belongs. I have 5 Amal 627's on hand in a box on the shelf. At the present time have 1 Mk 1 MAR in the family presently (Mikuni carb of course).

Larry 2, Pretty pricey HUH, you might want to explore all options. I am pretty sure there are folks here that have sources close by. Larry

Where has everybody gone??? Just thought this old entry form might be of interest, Have a good day Larry

Larry, there are others more knowledgeable on M 10 , but they appear to be of the taper tops that were used up thru M 85 Alpinas at least, I have used early sliders on later tubes with no problems. I only offer this as my own experience. One other word of caution M 92 and on have the knurling below what you need. Larry

Maybe these will be of some use in your understanding of the difference in our part of the world as the only fiberglass tanks I personally have seen used, there may be others that have seen different tanks Notice shape of top, seat juncture, and bottom shape, this style of tank from M 158 thru M191 Sherpa T,they are about 8 1/2 inches at their widest point. Hope this helps Larry

Larry, what did you do with the pitted tubes ? Larry

Only a guess on my part; replacement item as the early plastic tanks we have seen seemed to self destruct and were not as pleasing to the eye as was the glass tank IMHO. Larry

Well, I have never seen fiberglass tanks with the bottoms like older models, (flat), made for later models. that said the red tank looks OK, (don't know how wide) the blue is different and I didn't see anything like it in my search, if the seat fits it will be OK for use as long as the stops are long enough. I am sure you will find more help here. Welcome. Larry

Larry 2, it is a product that Farriers use to repair split hooves when shoeing horses. it also has many other applications IE tank repair ect. I don't believe our source ships internationally however, there may be a similar product available to you. This is a 2 part epoxy that when mixed goes off in 3 minutes, and is the consistency of water so it gets in every place, trade name Kwik Poly, you can read on the web. Very thorough cleaning required, as with other products. Larry

Larry, was wondering if you were still kicking around , good to hear from you again!! I was protecting the tank as it was already painted before I had it to line the inside with a two part epoxy to hopefully prevent damage from modern fuels, (no ethanol regardless). Had good luck during the cleaning process and subsequent lining,(no drips). Mailed it off to Texas this morning. Larry

Pretty good day yesterday, tank all clean and ready for lining Three passes and clean the threads, unmask and get out of the shop cause the fumes are getting to me, I'll add the newly refreshed seat later, turn the fans on high. Gotta get some fresh air!!! Have a nice day Larry

John, Scott and I have discussed what to do here and decided to go the above as we had several earlier actuators on hand. I would imagine he will get to working the bad one as time allows. Thank you for your input. Have a nice day Larry

Well another fun few hours in the shop today, if you find that your clutch on your bike that you are sorting for the upcoming event seems to have an inordinate amount of drag this may be part of the problem; flat bearing This is from a 199A and( the more common one) They are different as to the lock screw location I hope this works, spot of weld , now it cant come up. Larry

A very worthy project you have in mind, the cost is not to be a concern. The hard starting could be as simple as a flooding carb, but is more likely electrical. Mount an automotive condenser under the tank. Cheap insurance. As for spending quality time with Dad, You only go round once!! Larry

Hario, Thanks and am glad to be of help. Combination plate fiber against clutch basket 1st in, ended up w/ fiber against pressure plate. A help for bleeding, from the bottom up I use a smaller pump oil can (new or really clean) w/ short length of fuel line. Just A way of bleeding. Clutch & front brake usually pretty easy, rear not so nice. For the Pampera, all good springs probably necessary. Have a nice day, BTW where are you? Larry

Hario, as promised my GG clutch in pieces. Combination plate 1st; fiber down, then typical assembly. Stack = 1.040 Pressure plate index as shown. Photos trump words

Hario, I will take my clutch apart shortly. In the mean time the springs that are not in my clutch measure 1.490 inch.. I also understand the bike is new to you so we don't know what PO may have changed. These are the junk plates that I replaced with new junk plates; helped it to be just like other brands. Larry

Hario, The plates do appear to be the original ones, they had a very distinct pattern and release very well as compared to the after market junk, yours do not appear to be worn, and don't know why they would slip if everything is adjusted (free travel @ the lever) no other adjustments left. I don't have access to an original @ this time but I know mine has a steel plate in first then a friction, Yes we run 4 springs , your springs may be sacked & need replaced or maybe you can get by preloading them slightly, none the less you have the best clutch plates & we are not able to get new ones anymore. Larry

Bultaco 199, If you are going to use Barnett plates, there are several places on TC as to the set up. With a cable in good order & 4 springs you can have a nice 1 or 2 finger clutch if that is what your wanting. 1st plate in has to be earless unless you enjoy slipping when kicking. Stock is also fine, requires all springs. Nice bike by the way. See also" Action Shots in Bultaco." Larry

Whatever you do please take this as experience with the earlier design GG, (2001 TXT in my hands), do not use aftermarket clutch plates! Been there. You have the best clutch GG ever had IMHO, Mine has s***f*** junk and without careful attention will not release properly, not unlike some other brands. The original clutch plates you show look fine,not sure about the order as to the first plate in, Sherpa T will slip when kicking if first plate is not steel when using Barnett plates & 4 springs, several early GG in our group, all w/4 springs, running Dexron. My experience only.

Bondy , hope you ordered 3 inch or more as the tanks vary as to how wide they are when mounted. Larry

Bondy, note post page 5 this thread." Connector bolt" this was I believe d250bs' Idea, the way I do it involves machining a fitting. Scott , good idea on the cane tips. Larry

Maybe these photos which I failed to post last evening will be of some help, my 199 seems to stay pretty straight but then I don't ride rocks much or anything else like we all once did. Larry very un-twisty, too harsh for my thinking, I prefer the nice soft Bultaco fork action.

Generally speaking the older style forks are not as ridged as the modern style, mainly due to diameter 35mm versus 38 to 40 mm but IMHO it is where the fork bracing/ fender mount placement occurs. In my experience if you should crab a bit you may need to find a couple of trees the proper width apart to realign things, this activity is to be avoided as much as possible but will occur anyway. Will have photos shortly. Larry

Now I see, late style wipers. Thanks for clearing that up. Have a nice day, and don't forget about MOM! Larry