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Bondy, I must be missing something. What are "modern seals" ?? Sorry to all for being dense here. Larry

Tony,yes it is Debbie Evans , you all might enjoy this page from the old entry form, several went on from here. Have a nice day Larry

A good friend sent me this photo of a young lady who we had the good fortune to meet at our National round in 1977, this photo is later but I hope you will like it anyway. Quite the camber. Perhaps some other names of interest, I believe some 75 entrants. Larry

Very nice, good use of material on hand and ingenuity on your part!!! I on the other hand went all round the pump looking for the handle because I didn't find the proper length connecter bolt,must have too much time on my hands, Had I have had the bike in hand (its in Ill.) I would have went my old way. Have a good day. Larry

Thank you for that. Larry

Please help me out, I have never seen any B models period. It would appear in the photo on pg 3 of this thread (re 85.5 piston) that the 199 B maybe doesn't use a head gasket as I am used to seeing?? Forget about us seeing 198B, as I personally do not remember seeing any 250 after the M 92 in this area; bigger has got to be better mentality? Thanks Larry

Not to long ago. On a beautiful day when old folks can get out and enjoy.

Bondy, Please take Grahams' advice, GREASE THE AXEL. Zinc plating won't stop rust very long if at all!! This from personal M92 original (my) assembly many years ago. Tear down recent. (reweld kick stand). Had a m199 several years ago w/ original chrome plated aluminum bearings that required lots of heat & beat to get it out. Larry

Bondy, you got it, just make sure the swing arm moves without moving the motor mount. When you get it assembled a shot of grease on each side & no more tearing it down ever. Don't forget to grease the bolt. Larry

Allrighty then , finished the repair on Scotts' swing arm/ motor mount problem, don't have a clue as to where things went wrong, The ends of the motor mount tube were visibly not square with the bore and did not take up the space between the bearings causing a pretty bad bind (ridged perhaps) when tightened up. Bondy, you can check for non-binding by adding a spacer so you can tighten your spindle up, the motor mount and the bearings should move freely together. Larry

The difference of .011 is not the problem. If you will notice the 1st photo shows distance between the swing arm bearings @ 2.437, the crooked mount is 2.348/2.337 & is not perpendicular to the bore, so when tightening the bolt things tend to bind slightly. Cant have any of this happening or the bike don't work. Will complete the work later and post results. Larry

Thank you for the response it should be a nice sound for I don't know what bike it goes on? This is what I worked on yesterday; yet another 199 motor mount, however it was never straight from new !! This really tends to bind things badly.

Well the exhaust project looks like it is progressing nicely, would like to hear it, the tool for proper tightening is good also, wish we could have seen what sort of insides you added to accommodate packing of perforated tube, but alas you have done a VERY NICE weld job. By the way , how long is the perforated tube? Keep up the good work. Larry

Good to see you could source Mahle pistons. I always try to use Mahle as then I can bore & hone to .0015 inch clearance as they are nice & quiet & as near original as possible now. Larry

Ok , all back together from my latest fiasco, clean mag, timing spot on, new seals, wipers,and fluid, for the rear shocks , all washed up and no where to go, oh well such is life. Have a nice day Larry

Bondy you might want to do that for sure! Like the red and silver. Thank you Martin and glad to see you participate here and other threads. Do the B,s not have a mud flap on the air box? WELCOME Larry

Fellows, have to ask a silly question having never been around any B models. What kind of drains are in the airbox? Thanks Larry

For all who build and ride M159 and forward, a really nice way to get rid of the not well thought out tank mount bolt, and do not have a handy machinist friend. ,This is from an earlier post on this forum, and NOT MY IDEA, it should serve everyone quite nicely. This for those that didn't know (me for sure) is called a connector bolt, my local store didn't have one any longer (2.3/8 inch) and it needs to be some 1/2 inch longer, add some nice rubber washers and now you can shorten your stops without interference. Stainless would be nice , but watch out as it tends to stick together,anti-seize required. Have a nice day Larry

]Well that's beats what I got into, Smelling hope you did well. As for me the simple check turned out to be a little more when my conscience got the better of me and forced me down on my knees to take flashlight in hand to look in the back corner of the mag case & there was a small puddle of fuel. You know what follows, beware of fuel leaks. I must like to do things twice at least. Have a nice day Larry

Well that is good news, if you can post a picture of the rear setup, that will be of help to all.(there is a thread). Since our conversation, we sourced a 138 Alpina rear setup for the younger competitor (only 48 or so) so he now has good rear brakes. Larry

Depends on what do you want to do with the bike. The black wire normally goes to coil. The green , ground. The yellow, lights (never used for me) Larry

Just that time to check things out, don't necessarily enjoy but I guess we will just call it preventive maint. or just bored to tears. Need a new bike to build!! Larry Yes, I really do use Iridium plugs. Please don't mind the dirty fins, had a leaky crossover plug. Have a nice day.

Hencam, I believe you & I had a discussion some time ago regarding using a 138 Alpina rear wheel to get proper 199's rear brake. That said Feetups comment rang a bell, so went to the shop to check on a slip up my son & I pulled some years ago when building his M49, got a good deal on a set of Alpina wheels as the ones we had were the older Akront rims & we liked these. Needless to say the rear was fine, the front drum is 5.5 dia.140.omm Sherpa is 4.9 dia. 125.0mm so no go without the proper brake plate & shoes. I suppose we have had good luck with chrome, plenty of front brake but as I have already been informed, different climate. Larry

Well as usual I messed up and lost the last picture This one since 1973.

Just messing about in the shop and remembered a thing or two that might be of interest to the fellows. Ignition waterproofing perhaps. One way is to use the easily obtainable OEM rubber gizmo and RTV sealer, a piece 1/4 copper tube and fuel line to house the hot & ground. The other is custom and I sent 5 to 1974 SSDT in hopes they would get back to the factory, never heard from again. Have a nice day Larry