davey64

The black box is a battery horn, it's going for an MOT next week as some of the trials I'm entering involve road use between sections.

I've now finished the 199A rebuild and thought I would post a picture. Thanks to everyone who contributed to the questions that I posted during the rebuild. By the way, I know it's the wrong colour but I prefer the 199 colour scheme and I bought it to keep & ride, not to sell on. I'm off out on it next weekend so it's probably the last time it will be seen in this condition! Regards Dave.

Thanks Nigel, I'll give it a try in the morning.

I'm just finishing of the 199a engine rebuild, put new points in & gapped them to 0.4mm. I've gone to set the timing & found that I can't get it set any closer than 4mm before top. The ignition is fully retarded, that is the backplate is fully turned anticlockwise up against the screws in the slots. I'm a bit stumped, has anyone come across this before? Dave.

Thanks both, I'll try & set them up today.

Does anyone know the recommended gap between the low tension/lighting coil & the rotor. I've had to take them off the backplate to repair them and can't find any info on Google. It's the Femsa setup. Dave.

A company called Motos del Abuelo do various seal housings, http://www.motosdelabuelo.com/ Click on the Bultaco parts catalogue and they are on page 22. I emailed them last week with a drawing of mine which I think is the same as yours, 15.5mm deep from gasket face to inside face. The price is 22 euros but the P&P is a bit steep at 30 euros. Like I said in an earlier post, if I can't get hold of a decent used one I'm going to machine one so if you're stuck give me a shout and I'll make two but I wont be able to get on it for a couple of weeks. Dave.

Hello Hywel, I've also got a problem with the clutch side oil seal holder but mine was caused by water damage. When I bought the bike (199A) it had been sitting in someone's back garden with no plug in, the mains, big end, crankpin, conrod & piston were all shot. The seal holder was pretty eaten up with oxidation, I spoke to Inmotion but they don't do them so if I can't get hold of a used on in the next couple of weeks I'm going to turn one as I've got some 4" ally bar in the workshop. The original ones are cast so are pretty brittle so a turned one should be an improvement. Dave.

Thanks Woody and mrb. I can get the wheel off for rebuilding now.

Hi all, Unfortunately, when I bought my Sherpa 199A the previous owner had chopped out the spokes from the front wheel, I think he was planning on rebuilding it. If anyone has their wheel out of the bike could they measure the offset for me from the face of the brake drum to the outside edge of the rim. Just for info, I had my rear wheel rebuilt by Sid's Wheels in Stafford, he did a great job, supplied & fitted stainless spokes for 85 quid. Regards Dave.

Thanks Greg

Hi all, Just rebuilding the back end of my 199A, wheel rebuild, new shocks etc. Bushes & bearings are ok & bought a new spindle because the nut was missing & thread was shot. Question about the rear engine mount. I've got the cast ally one which I would like to keep but the machined faces where they meet the steel bearing look completely buggered so I was planning to have them machined true & square and fitting some stainless shim washers. I take it that the width across the engine mount needs to be wide enough to not allow the bushes to bind when it is all sandwiched together but not to much as to allow the swinging arm to have too much lateral movement. How much clearance was standard or can anyone give me the original width across the engine mount. Regards Dave.

Thanks for the reply Naichuff, Job done, hub painted & off to Sid's Wheels for a rebuid.

Hi all, I'm about to send my rear wheel off for rebuilding. Can anyone confirm the original finish for the rear hub: Sherpa 199, Red tank, Silver frame. I've googled it and not sure is it's fully polished, or black on the brake area and the rest polished or completely black, either matt or gloss? Regards Dave.

Thanks Woody, I'll set it up with tape like you said and get it almost level with the edge of the rear wheel & see how it looks. Regards Dave.