deerhurst

Will do. Ill give them a hollar and see what they say and if they will ship.

No dealer within several hundred miles that I know of. Nearest is lewisport. I missed the cover. Is it the new aluminum one with no magnesium?

How is an upgrade kit going to help with a leak? The parts in the upgrade kit are only internal.

My 2002 Pro has always had clutch problems since I had to bleed it the first time. Fast forward a few years and new clutch plates along with a transmission rebuilt helped alot. Finally got it dialed for the last ride and it stopped being a clutch altogether. It is leaking fluid out of the joint where the line goes into the case side. I pulled it out and the threads inside look smashed, almost like someone decided the threads on the line were close enough and worked it in. There were a couple threads that came out of the case too. Looking into the hole there is a shelf and beyond the shelf there are good threads. It looks like the piece threaded in could have been too big. Ill get pics later today. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Thais: http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Pro/clutch-measurements.html I cant really help that. We dont exactly have the same trials scene in bike or moto as you guys. The US's best trials forums is primarily bike trials. Do gotta say, you guys are dam fine riders.

Well, my bike is older then 3-5 years and the clutch plates are slightly different material now. I also said I've been out of the loop for a while and have not gone to a comp in at least 3 years while the bike had been broken for a couple years till I have time from classes and work. Oh, and I'm from the US out in the middle of nowhere and do not follow anything from the UK if I can help it, except top gear. It's super easy to find neutral in all gas gas bikes I've ridden. Fantic, not so easy. I believe I stated a few times that everything to my knowledge inside the case is in prefect spec. I never said I fixed a problem, simply improved upon the reduction of the symptoms. Yeah, it still has issues that I never had prior to clutch plate replacement. The clutch worked better far out of spec then it does in spec. I'm ok with minimal drag but stalling out when being held at rest is not minimal drag. Please, if you have useful comments or information let me know and refrain from useless rants.

Yes. I messed with the lever adjustment more today and managed to get some more clutch but I still have enough drag to stall the bike with the brake on. Otherwise it's got a little creep which is annoying.

I've been out of the loop with a broken bike for a while. Long story short, I broke every spring in the gearbox including the ones in the shifter drum. I also had to replace a couple clutch plates to keep the pack in spec. The bike is a 2002 280 Pro. My new plates are probably 2010 or 2011 mixed with a couple older 2002 plates that were still good. I'm running the recommended GM oil in it currently and its sticks terribly. I can kinda get it to unstick after a while but it still wants to walk when I'm trying to track stand. The trick of holding the rear brake while putting it into gear just stalls it. The clutch feel fine. Any suggestions what I should look at? Different gear oil?

whats up with this? its a gasser and it has a seat? blasphemy.

I use that AutoTrak II right now. The clutch always stuck but if I put it into gear before with the clutch in the plates would break free and I would have no issues past that. Now, if i do that I stall out the bike. I can usually hear the difference in the clutch finger rattle when playing with the clutch in neutral. I can keep the bike stopped in gear with the clutch in but it requires a bit of strength and excess throttle. I dont like that. I dont remember the clutch measurement, I had to change out that plate to bring the pack thickness and the finger height back into spec, it is now at the top end of the spec. how should i go about checking the top hat o-rings? just pull the top hat off and see if the o-rings look bad?

My problem is that I have one fiber plate that is probably a slightly different compound and may require a different gear oil. The old pro and the new pro use a different oil. If memory serves, and it may not, I put 350cc of oil in my pro model. The old pros use a GM transfer case oil. Some slimy blue stuff. That's what I'm using in there now and want to know if that one plate is the issue with that oil. Your GM dealer will know what your on about if you tell him you want that stuff. I don't know what the new pros use.

Ive been on here for a few years now but have not been on in so long i forgot all of my old login info. So, hello, I'm back! I have a 2002 gasser 280 pro that I finally got the tranny rebuilt after breaking a shifter spring a couple years back. I had to replace a fiber plate to bribg the clutch back in spec and I will bet that it was a 2009/2010 plate. I run the old blue GM stuff as was recremmeded for that bike but the clutch now sticks horribly for a long time after it has sat for even a day. should I be running what ever it is now that is recommended? It sticks bad enough that I have no clutch at all and the old hold the rear brake when putting it in gear stalls the bike. It's kinda pop it into gear and hold on till everything gets warm then the clutch works beautifully.