stonezone

Yup, chain has a pinky finger gap between it and swingarm, kickstand and spring removed long ago. The sound is different from components making contact, it sounds more like a flex or creak sound. Initially I though the plastic was flexing and making the sound but I’ve ruled that out. There is the smallest hairline crack on the rear of the skid plate right at the cold bend I found…I’m thinking maybe there’s flex from that? I should have a new one coming but we will see. I’ll probably weld it before the new one comes since I’m impatient. I’ll update the thread with any progress. Any other suggestions I’ll gladly take.

well i just replaced the main bearings on my 17gp300.. so hearing they changed them kind of p****s me off now... I heard that some cases were machined too small which puckered the bearings but that wasnt the case with mine, bad batch of bearings I heard.

these work great and are so cheap you can start calling them consumables goo.gl/Fien1Hcontent_copy Copy short URL

I don't have a problem buying a spare but it seems like all my friends, gf, and literally everyone is constantly needing one and it sucks to have to order such a simple thing and wait a week or longer. I've been to the biggest hydraulic shop on the island and they charge roughly the same to make or fix a cable as buy a new one (and the fittings they use are bulky). I'll swing by NAPA tomorrow and see what they say. This site seems to have a good selection: http://www.anplumbing.com/ here's most of what you need (borrowed from http://forums.kz650.info/index.php?topic=4243.0) * X7' of -3 speed flex hose. This is plenty for any front brake application. I only used less than 3 ft. per each caliper, so you're likely to only need 6'. part number is 600003 or 6000031 for coated hose.* * X2 non-adjustable 30 degree banjo hose ends, part number 600803. Don't bother paying for the stainless hose ends, they are very expensive and the zinc parts have a great finish to them for the price. * X2 straight & adjustable banjo hose ends, part number 600403 * X1 pack of 3/8ID crush washers, part number 177003. This is if you plan on reusing your banjo bolts (You need two single banjo bolts and one double banjo bolt) but need to know the right fitting to go into the clutch if that's what i'm building (brakes seem more standard): http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Brake+Adapters-90.html (which one fits the GG clutch master) Anyhow, hope some of you find this useful and if i figure out all the exact parts for brake/clutch lines i'll post them here. It looks like you don't need a crimper if you use the [straight & adjustable banjo hose ends]. Videos are available too (I didn't watch). thanks! SZ

Where I live it takes forever to get parts and it seems lie constantly either myself or friends need a new brake/clutch line. Are any of you making your own and if so do you have a good source for the tools, braided hose and specific fittings gassers (or any trials bike) require? I'd rather drop the cash and be able to make my own and for my friends than wait 2 weeks for a simple $120 3' cable. Thanks! Sz

Question 1: Did the Kelly by itself improve the performance of your bike over the stock controller (or just better throttle control, etc)? Question 2: I'm contemplating getting 4 more batteries for so I could make my current 12s4p pack into an 18s and upgrade the voltage tp 66.6 using a kelly controller such as: http://kellycontroller.com/kdz6440024v-64v400aseriespm-p-1269.html. Will the current 48V1200W motor handle that upgrade? It gets hot now when i push it as is but maybe that's a controller issue? Reasoning for the upgrade: I have a LightningRod Mid-Drive kit on it's way for my nomad and I'd like to use my current pack for both/either depending on what i wanna ride. I can either run them all in parallel and have 44.4V/30000mAH for long range or 66.6V/20000mAH for max Power. I'll probably rig the harness so it will charge as a single pack on my Hyperion as 44.4V/30000mAH but have the option to run it as 18p if desired). Thoughts?

i just buy the cases of 5-30 synth from costco and change it often. never had an issue... trail ride, not trials.

PMSKI, See the parallel and series diagram that GWHY posted on the previous page for connecting your batteries to get the 12s. I'm not sue why you can't run them 12s2p to get 16000mAH (mine is 20000mAH) but GWHY is the guy who knows and can answer (I will overheat my motor before i hammer out my whole charge my pack). For parallel charging, you can make two cables, one that will parallel them all to charge, and another that you use to run them in series to connect to the controller. Here is a good place to get very high quality ones custom made if you want to go that route (he also has youtube videos descrying his cables). For my setup I balanced each battery first (important!!!) than just soldered the parallel sets together, and connected the series via solder so it's all one pack. I balance charge it each time and can still check each cell with the individual balance leads when i want. I connect it to the Oset with XT60 and replaced the stock connector with the same so you can just swap. If you haven't been to Endless-Sphere yet, go to the various forums and there are stickies for everything basic that you need to learn (and there's a lot). Take some time to read about it all, watch some youtube videos and once you get it all going you'll be really happy with the results. I'm about to put some 24" tires on mine, but have a vacation in between so it won't be for another month or so. I'll eventually put up photos of the entire build (including kellly controller install) when i'm done with everything but that won't be for a while.

PMSKI: I switched to LiPO for my 20 and haven't had any issues at all so far. As long as you do plenty of research, follow the 3 rules of the batteries, get a decent charger I think there's no better way to go about it. Plus you'll have the infrastructure to do anything else electric that you like (such as add lightningrodev mid-drive kit to your existing mtn bike and use the same lipo pack you're running on your Oset). The only issue is getting a good charger. I think I somehow found the last hyperion on the web, but there are a few other options now. Go over to endless-sphere.com and read up, take the plunge into lipo, but only if you're really prepared to learn what you can and can't do with them so you're safe. With LIpo I saved 17lbs over the stock battery and added about 20% more power and at least 2x the range (i'm pretty sure i can get 2 hours out of it and i weigh 180lbs). SZ

it must be broken off in there and i'm guessing happened during shipping before I got it.... thanks a ton for all the responses. my local dealer has the part for me on order.

I just have an extremely good sense of when it's about to stall on me.... plus years of being single and my right wrist is amazingly coordinated

I've heard that ATF type fluid is fine for Trials type riding but not for longer trail rides that much of us are doing. For that from what i've read you want to use 5w30 as razorback mentioned. I've also heard that they don't recommend synthetic but I gust the cases of synth 5w30 from costco and change it pretty frequently. I rode my 12 raga very hard and did a few really long and intense hare and hounds on it and to this day the tranny is smooth and clutch perfect.... just sold it and am waiting for the 14 to come in mid -july....YEE-HAW!!

I really appreciate the replies. Does anyone have a photo of the carb they could post so i can compare? Here's a photo of where as deceived it's missing from (It was never there from day1 I'm almost 100% positive)

well explained as always. Thanks!

There's only one screw on the keihin unlike all of the other carbs i've dealt with. It's been cleaned numerous times in the past 2 years i've owned it and i basically just learned to deal with it....

nope no sign of life when i plug it into the full pack. I made an adapter for the balance leads for it and another for the ghetto low voltage audible alarm i have. i'm stumped but it's still doing what I need.

yeah, i bought the exact one you suggested. It's working fine the way i have it but just strange that it doens't work for the full pack...

I can't seem to get my raga to idle well. I've had the bike for 2 years. adjusted the screw a million ways, changed the pilot jet and even maxed out the adjustment on the throttle cable but it still wont idle. I dont have a problem keeping it runnign but i'm selling it soon to get a new one (YES!!!) and I'd like to have it running perfect for my buddy that's getting it. Any thoughts or something i've missed? I know sherco's have 2 scres on the carbs but ther's only one on the raga and it seems to raise the idle when backed out as opposed to what i'm used to where screwign it in increases the idle. thanks! SZ

so this only seems to work on either of my P cells, not the whole series. So i have an audible low voltage alarm connected to one and this display connected to the other (so i obviously just double the readout to keep track). Any idea why it wont work for the full 44.4 vilt pack?

I got this reply from steve@oset (super helpful and great company in all aspects of correpsondance i've had with them btw): I was asking about a chain/sprocket replacement for when i upgrade to 24" wheel. Strange thing is that on their site the spare hubs they sell are 32h where the hub on my biks is 36H. not sure why they have both... here's the reply: "it [the oset 20] is a #219 drive system not 214! You can play with 219 kart sprockets since your 20 Race has that sprocket adapter. http://www.fastech-racing.com/219-sprockets/ http://www.extremegokarts.com/chains-gears-sprockets-219-sprockets-c-240_268.html" SZ

Can you explain it to me like i'm 5 the purpose of adding the Diode and Resistor to the relay when replacing the stock with the Kelly?

I thought Oset used #219H chain... I was just about to order this: http://www.azusaparts.com/ProductPage.aspx?catID=12&subCatID=40&ssCatID=121&productID=2046 my 24" rear wheel/rim setup is in the mail. Probably going to do the swing arm extension as soon as i get a new chain/sprocket. Still haven't tackled the Kelly I bought but I REALLY need to do that.