fourex

Keep it for the car, you can do much better for your motorcycle. https://www.fuchs.com/au/en/special/product/product/30190-titan-cytrac-man-synth-sae-75w-80/

I once modified the bottom shock mounts on my Fantic 300 swingarm by using "clevis pins" in the 12mm diameter that I required and simply cut them down to the length needed and drilled and tapped a 6mm thread down the centre for the shock retaining screw and then mig welded them in place. It worked a treat and I'm only an average welder and don't have a drill press either and I'm still riding the Fantic occasionally to this day. Hope this is helpful.

mrb505, your bike is a bitza as you have stated but looks really good, what is the frame ? Is it a modified 183 frame? I like the look of that substantial alloy bash plate.

Cornishflyer, I got the decal kit from Spain via ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/302760922909?ViewItem=&vxp=mtr&item=302760922909 It was missing the 2 x Bultaco stickers on arrival but had everything else as per above link, so when they never turned up after contacting him, I sourced some stickers from within Australia but they turned out to be smaller than the "255 x 30mm" jobs that were currently on my bike which looked right and I believe were original. That's when I contacted Rob at motoresto who made up the stickers in the 255 x 30mm size that I required, he now also does them in the letter only format, contour cut as he calls them. Hope this makes sense.

Super helpful Rob at sales@motoresto.com.au in Perth can do the 255mm x 30mm contour cut (not sticker) "Bultaco" for you.

Just so I don't confuse things any more then they are already, the pics I've posted showing a weathered tank are of my 183 that I bought Nov 2017. Believing that all the attached stickers were original, I've tried to replicate them and this is the result. Not completely happy as the circular Bultaco emblems are not hard plastic convex items and the word "Bultaco" is a sticker and not a letter only transfer, if you know what I mean.

That link is gold, thankyou. I don't remember my 158 having that '75 world champ sticker however, the M183 I bought last year does have it, 182/183 being the next models after 158/159. I'm glad I'm not the only pedantic Trials enthusiast out there, I also noted the "Bultaco" emblems seemed too small on the websites I was viewing compared to what I think it should be, so I got someone in Oz to make them for me. Pics of my 183 below before any restoration.

I think you have bought a sticker kit from Peter S in Victoria, his sticker kit is not 100% correct for your 158/159 model, nor is it correct for 182/183 or 190/191. I'm confident the below pic is the 158/159 brochure from back in the day, as soon as I saw it on a google images search it immediately reminded me of the brochure I once had for my 158 back in the mid 1970's. Stripes on side panels started with mod's 198/199 for Australia.

Hello fellow Aussie, I think a 28mm anything might be too much for an older 250cc Trials bike, 26mm might be better.

Hello metisse, I'm curious what jetting your 199A uses if you are able to share. I have a 183 that runs the Bing, one day I would like to try the Dellorto PHBH 28 BS from my old Italjet to see how that performs since engine capacities are similar being 326cc for Bully and 330cc for Italjet. Below is the Italjet jetting for its all green 250 (237cc) and 350 (330cc). This may be some help to Martin also. Italjet Carb Specs.pdf

Hello Miner, from those pics you posted I can see that your chain is a little tight and the chain tensioner block is up-side down. One thing I've done in the past when I've had the linkages disconnected for greasing is take the swingarm through its full arc and you can easily determine the correct chain tension, obviously you want the chain to have the slightest bit of slack when front sprocket, swing arm pivot and rear axle are all in a straight line, then with the bike fully reassembled and sitting up on a stand with rear wheel off the ground make up a spacer block that squeezes in tightly between chain and underside of swingarm at a pre-determined point. Now put that spacer in your tool box to be used whenever you need it, make it out of hardwood timber or a short piece of pipe or electrical conduit or whatever you can lay your hands on. That's what I do any how, makes setting correct tension easy.

I don't know for sure as I have not ever seen a Cota 247 C in the flesh. I'm basing everything on what I've found on the interweb and the fact I have a black framed '74 Cota 247 sitting in my garage only a few feet away from me that I'm using as a comparison, I'm fairly sure they simply added volume to that main muffler to alter power delivery but once again I am assuming.

G'day David, the main muffler looks quite different on this last model and takes up the space where the filter box once lived on previous models. You can see it in this pic.

I'm pretty sure the air box is correct for this model that Andy has, being different to previous Cota 247 air boxes .

Alternatively, you could convert to Magura hydraulic for a bit more expense. I've been using this setup for over a year now and it works better than anything I'd tried previously. PS: I'm now remembering what else I did to get the nice clutch action that I'm happy with, I carried out the Beta clutch mod with regards to clearing out all the glue and crud between the friction pads and fitted one of these actuating arms, http://trialparts-shop.de/shop/klassiktrial/ausrueckwelle-kupplung-fantic/, springs remained original. Without the above actuating arm which can be dis-assembled, you cannot get the Magura slave cylinder to fit the Fantic.

Hello All, does anyone know of someone that manufactures clamps for old Bully's, specifically a top clamp to suit M183 (350) without that off set tiller effect. Cheers.

Hello Clarkee, it's looking like a tough job ahead especially with that junior hacksaw laying in the foreground (swing arm) ? I've seen much worse, so best of luck. Many experienced Bultaco people on here plus also Trials Australia https://trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4785&sid=0de5e31040e7dc770244e12d3aef5b20&start=10 Keep us all posted, you will get lots of help.

Yes, I've been running a 48 PJ and # 3 slide since about mid 2015. It's only lately I've started riding this bike again after mainly using my twin shock Fantic in the past two years.

Yes, that sounds painful doesn't it. The richer # 3 slide is a good change but in the case of Jack Price in that video using the throttle openings he is using, I think a richer needle taper is also needed. I don't ride anything like that due to being old and of 'C' grade ability but still find it a little lean on hill climbs and those trail rides between sections, hence my starting this post. I'm going to experiment with KLG, KLH , KLJ needles when they arrive.

I've ordered three different needles, I'm going to experiment.

peterb, are you sure it's a GJH that you recommend. The reason being, I've looked up the Keihin chart for these needles and the GJH is actually leaner from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle due to the taper compared to the JJH. Cheers.

Not completely in my opinion, I've been running the # 3 slide and a 48 PJ since mid 2015 and it's better than the std 3.5 and 45, but it could still be better imo. I think a change of needle is the key to what I'm looking for, but I'm not confident on which way to go. Thanks peterb, I'll look into a GJH, is that with the std # 3.5 slide ?

As above, my '14 model came standard with a JJH needle which I have always felt was a little lean coming into the mid-range. I'm just curious if GG has changed this needle as std between then and now ? If so what is it please.

Also Ossacels in Spain, cheaper than Francis (Frankie). http://ossacels.com/ventas/index.php?id_product=104&controller=product&id_lang And Cienmotos also, https://www.ebay.com/itm/OSSA-MICK-ANDREWS-FRONT-EXHAUST-NEW-PIPE-CHROME-NEW-EXHAUST-OSSA-/292328210952?vxp=mtr&hash=item44101e8208

That looks like a beauty, the 199A we saw here in Australia had a plastic tank. Did the 199A still wear a fibreglass tank in other markets?