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Is the Fox flexible with body movement and how about when it is hot out?
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Any advise on good gear to protect the shoulders, arms, chest and back?
I have been using a Motocross chest protector, which is very restrictive, hot and clunky to move around in. Would prefer some downhill mountain bike gear but don't want the full suit gear.
G-Form has some cool technology for their pads, which when hit, stiffen up to protect you, then go back to a more plyable state after...all on a mositer wicking shirt.
Anybody thry these for Trials?
Thanks
Tom
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Made my own boot dryer with an old PC compture fan, some plywood and PVC pipe...cheap and works great
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Great bikes to ride. JUst need to ride them as a 4 stroke not a 2. If you do, you find them to be like a tractor, chugging through just about anything.
Good note about the impeller pump, check for mine and it was gone...replaced and all is well.
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I have a 2011 EVO 300T. Fan kicks in a few minutes after ridding and stay on for the most part in warm weather. In cold weather it does kick off for a short period and then comes back on.
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I have a 2011 Evo 300 4t that I bought used over a year ago. Had a similar thing happen. It was leaking oil from the cylinder and head gaskets. Found out there was no impeller blade, which may have caused it to run hot, pushing a pin hole leak in the top rockerbox cover, which only uses a sealant, not a gasket.
Long story short, replaced all of the gaskets, selants and had te vales adjusted, replaced the plastic impeller blade and run Engine Ice for coolant. Have run this set up for over a year now, no issues. I took the water pump cover cover off to check on the impeller blade, yep, still there, in good shape.
Sounds like your engine may have been running too hot for a while causing the cam tensioners to melt. Are all of the cam bearing good or worn out? May want to check your fan and sensors too, make sure it is kicking in to help cycle the coolant. You could of had a air pocket keeping the water from not circulating and just staying hot. Jitsie does make an aluminum impeller blade, larger with an adaptor for the cover to handle the larger blade...may push more fluid to keep the bike cool.
I have heard other Beta owners complain about this issue, even with the 2Ts.
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Interested in what kind of tool he uses for the repair? Heat gun related?
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Actually the bike still ran good, but just a bit hotter, which caused the top rocker box (top part of head with valves) to start to leak a bit. That part is only set up with a gasket sealent not an actual gasket, so my guess is because it ran hot it caused it to push a pin hole leak. Repaired that, added the impeller blade and she runs great.
Also been playing with diffrent syn oils and found that I like the Belray 4t Thumper racing version (10w50) which gives a nice smooth clutch action.
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Just picked up a new 2013 white fender and airbox cover. I did not get any screws and was wondering where the airbox lid screws down to? I have an 2011 Evo 4T
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I have a 2011 4T. Great bike, stay on top of oil changes. Watch out for the water impeller blade, even on 2Ts...they sometimes distintergrate...really. Other than that, typical trials bike upkeep. Very pleased with the Beta, just wish they had more flexible fenders.
Tom
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Looks great. I have a 2011 Evo 4T that I need to replace the rear mudgard...is the 2014 more flexible that the older, more brittle 2011s? Also, is that a GasGas front fender? I hav gone through a few of those as well.
Thanks
Tom
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2011 300Evo 4T...absolute love. Would not go back to a 2 stroke.
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I have an 2011 Evo 4t...gone through the stock front and a replacement...simple branch under the fender and it snapped...going with the GG next...problem solved.
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Check all rear pivot points and make sure they are greased. My 2011 Evo had a squeek that turned out to be swingarm bearing that needed lube...quick spray of wd40 to identify.
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Very interesting about Husqvarna...would love to see what they would come up with for a 4t Trials bike.
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Any jet changes on the carb required with the new silencer?
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The two main bolts that hold on the fender subframe have been good since I bought the bike. I noticed the other day one had worked its way loose, so I began to tighten the bolt only to find that it is stripped. I know that I did not over tighen the bolt to cause it to strip, but could hard hits from jumping off something cause extra stress to break the bolt loose?
Going to pull it apart next week and take a look...not sure if there is a nut welded to the back of the frame or if it is threaded into the frame. If it is the later I may need to helicoil?
Anyone else have these issues?
Thanks
Tom
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Had the same issues....moved the levers perch farther inward on the bars so my finger would line up more with the ball end of the lever...also, most important, get a good feel of how much you should pull the lever, a lot of it is just a matter of knowing when to stop pulling in.
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What impeller blade are you putting back in? The stock plastic one (compressed plastic pellets) or the Jitsie aluminum one?
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I have a 2011 Beta Evo 4T. Love the bike, starts easy, has tons of torque and has a light feel for a 4 stroke. Test drove both the Montesta 05 model and the Beta. Montesta had a snappier feel with the fuel injection, almost abrupt on the very bottom. The Beta feels much smoother, but you need to plan ahead to get it in the zone. Kind of a trade off, just like the feel of the Beta for my ridding style.
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Anyone know the front wheel bearing size for an 2011 Evo 4T?
Part number?
Many Thanks
Tom
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Stainless replacement....where and how much?
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