dabor2

Hi, a few mod I used to do with the linkage "back in the day" on the 2011 and 2013 models. This consisted of drilling the shocker linkage axially 2.5mm diameter (highlighted in red) from the very end through both the pin bores and tapping the end and fitting an m3 grubscrew with some pipe sealer to plug it off. This hole passes centrally between the four bushes in the linkage, this was then cross drilled into at an angle and the start of the hole squared off and tapped to suit a m6 grease nipple or zerk depending what side of the pond your from!This allowed both pins in the shocker link to be lubricated without any spanner work. A flexi hose on a grease gun and with a bit of practice and you could get quite perficient at locating the nipple on the link.( Hair around it comes to mind)😮 I used to chamfer the two swing arm links as highlighted in red and fitted an o ring to each of them,this needs to be tight around the boss so it pulls into the chamfer and against the shocker link to keep the dirt and water out. The o ring in the photo is only for illustration purposes only as thats all i could find. Sorry I dont have any potos of any modified ones. The link pins that went into the swinging arm were cross drilled and a slight grease groove ground on them. To lube them the m6 screws were removed and a m6 nipple (zerk) screwed in and a couple of shot of greased applied to to lube them and flush them out and the fitting removed and the original screw refitted Regard Mick

A couple of days ago I found a video on YouTube covering the same thing. (The things you have to do on lockdown!) Search for "This Old Tony" its title is Top End Rebuild (2 Stroke) Its quite informative and certainly humorous.

Hi ric h, I can confirm the SKF part number for the flanged bush is PCMF 353916E, this side of the pond it is also manufactured by others such as Frimet and has a part number TTF 35 16 47 The bush is 35mm bore, 39mm outside diameter, with a flange diameter of 47mm and bearing width of 16mm and a flange width of 2mm . Your local bearing supplier should be able to match it to other manufactures if they dont stock SKF ones. Some of the early Ossas had a plain anodised alloy spindle,others had a hardened collar on the spindle.This collar is 30mm bore, 35mm outside diameter and 20mm long and should also be available via your bearing supplier with a part number LRT 303520 if required. If yours is the plain anodised spindle and the bearing diameter is damaged get it machined and fit the hardened steel collar. Top tip,when you assemble it grease the bush a little and then put a little oil inside the hub of the wheel. Then occasionally lay the bike down sprocket side down and this will lubricate the bush and extend its life dramatically. Regard Mick

The kill switch should connect to a white plug near the headstock. This plug is a two pin plug with a black and a black/white cable. It should emerge from the harness with another plug that goes to the capacitor (one black cable and one red cable) approx 8" from the end of the main harness. Also from the same point in the harness, will be a single grey cable with a female bullet connector, and a single black/yellow cable with a male bullet connector. these cables are for the dual Map switch if fitted. The headlight should be supplied with another small harness with only two cores (red and black cables). This harness connects to a socket under the "seat" that looks like the same type plug/socket used for the kill switch at the headstock end. Hope this is of some help Regards Mick

Received mine today!

Ian, I take it that you did not like the throttle responce on the 010 beta you were trying out on Saturday. I think the guy that owns it was finding it a bit of a handfull,as it looked like he had two left feet at times!