tankygsy

You can unscrew the valve from its housing and fit another. Use two tiny screwdrivers and insert them into the valve, use another screwdriver as a lever in the middle to turn and unscrew it. Or go to a auto shop and purchase the correct tool to unscrew them and get a new valve at the same time.

My two pennies worth... I cant say what parts there are using but... If you are primarily doing high drop offs then the key to a successful landing from whatever height is a:) not bottoming out, and b:) controlling the speed of rebound on landing so you don't get thrown off or loose traction prior to the next obstacle. A:) can be achieved by using dampers with lots of travel. b:) can be achieved using different damping settings and oil viscosity. With the damper settings front and rear at full soft to begin with I would reccomend putting a cable tie on the damper shaft and fork tubes, then do a few drop offs starting small and increasing the height you drop off each time to see how much suspension travel you are actually using. Where the cable tie ends up after dropping off is the suspension travel. Go through a series of low medium and high drop offs recording your results each time then repeat the process, this time refine the damping. The front will be easier to tune as you can adjust bump and rebound individually whereas the rear will likely be a single control knob adjusting both at the same time. You can of course use different oils in the front - this essentially increases or decreases the overall bump / rebound. Bump setting: if the landing feels hard, for instance as if the suspension bottoms out quickly - increase the bump setting front and rear. Rebound setting: If after landing the bike 'recoils' back on rebound to the point of throwing you off - increase rebound setting front and rear. You may find after this test you don't need to purchase any new parts and the stock parts might be suitable. If after the test you are still bottoming out then on the front you'll need to try a thicker oil in the bump side of the forks. If that doesn't cure the bottoming out you will need a stiffer front springs. At the rear there is little you can do to cure bottoming out other than fit a stiffer spring - perhaps one that is 25 - 50 lbs heavier for instance. Remember this - springs are for absorbing the LOAD of the impact, damping is for controlling the speed at which the spring absorbs this load. Bear in mind that setting up suspension only for high drop offs will effect the suspension for other circumstances, you may reduce grip up for going up hills or might make it too hard for riding over stones etc... You will need to find a compromise between drop offs and regular trial riding. No new parts will help you do both, it's all down to settings in my opinion.

Yes correct it does just 'piggy back'.

By the way I wouldn't use your charger as a power supply as the charger will only deliver unfiltered rectified AC (aka pulsed DC) which is not the steady 12v dc that the motor needs to run properly. You might also damage your charger.

Can't help with the rectifier specs but if any use to you this is the spec of my fan motor: No-load current drain 0,4 A Current drain at max. efficiency 2 A Current drain when stalled 10 A If the motor windings are shorted out / beginning to fail it will draw more current.

Does for me chap. I must be special..

I disagree with you there nige. If he's confortable with it then he should continue using it.

Or do like me - with the tire off put a tiny blob of heldite jointing compound onto each spoke nut and smear it around to seal any gaps. No inner tube to worry about, no leaks and keeps the tire tubeless. Easy to remove at a later date if you ever need to adjust or tighten spokes. I don't personally like tubed tires, I tried a friends bike which is the same make and model as mine and sane age tite and it had so little grip compared to mine? I know his suspension could have been setup different of course but when I looked at his tire while he was sat on the bike the tire footprint didn't look correct? I.E flat on the floor. Also if your tire is leaking through the spokes and you put a tube inside it to stop it from leaking what do you do when you have a pincture?a tire turd wont fix a tube will it? Anyone else have thoughts on this?

Try going to a auto repair shop, they should have a RAL colour swatch and will be able to give you the correct code. Also any hardware store that sells marine or machine paint will have a RAL colour chart.

No one can really comment without a picture of the damage.

Try promoting with pit babes. Get some totty involved and I garuntee every man and his dog will go to trials! Couple this with food and a beer tent and bobs your uncle. 1 % of competitors go to win, the other 99% go to have fun. Make it fun and people will want to come.

While seating the tyre bead It helps if you tie a rope around the tire - then using a length of tube to 'Spanish windlass' the rope while inflating. A 1.5" strap is better than rope if you have one.

A little bit of hardwork never hurt anyone - but why risk it. The best way is to have the missus fit them, naked, possibly with a female friend, put your feet up and have beer and camera at the ready. Do you concurr?

Swollen clutch plates from using ATF oil is most likely cause but as mentioned above could also be clutch setup or a dodgy master cylinder / slave cylinder seals not releasing hydraulic pressure - or a combination of things. Check the hydraulics first and change the oil (change it twice with a run inbetween to flush the ATF out) and see if that helps. Failing this you might want to check the clutch pack width, you'll need a new gasket for the clutch cover so you may as well replace slave cylinder seals at the same time - whatch out for the needle roller clutch realease bearing when you remove the clutch cover, these sometimes fall apart when you dismantle the clutch cover - and tiny little needle rollers can drop into the clutch housing - not good if left unnoticed! I always found my 280cc gasser had an excessively progressive and draggy clutch on ATF. It is also a bit draggy on light gear oil even when the clutch tolerances are set as per the manual. I set my clutch / clutch release levers to the lower end of the range (about 15.75mm IIRC) as i find it is much less progressive, much like an on off switch and it doesn't drag at all. There is a video on YouTube that explains clutch checking and adjusting procedures which you may find usefull. It can be a bit trial and error to get the clutch exactly how you want it, you may want to get some different thickness steel clutch plates to try out, if you go this route you'll also need a few spare clutch cover gaskets - if you are careful you can reuse the gaskets twice while testing different clutch settings if you don't tighten up the clutch cover bolts to the full torque setting (so as not to squish the gasket too much). You can torque them up tight when you are happy with the clutch setting.

I don't - cause I'm well 'ard...... And smelly.

Another reason I wouldNt have a trial bike chromed is because it has a tendency to peel off over time (no matter who chromed it). Same peeling happens if when you bash it which of course leaves exposed steel that will rust. Powder coat On the other hand tends to just chip or scratch so it can be easily touched up with the matching colour and a paint brush. It's not as easy to touch up on top of chrome and it's always obvious when someone's touched up chrome with silver paint!

I've not but have seen the results on car wheels and exhaust headers and it dies look really good. Not quite as bright as chrome but still quite stunning, cheaper then chrome too. Have a look on YouTube at parts being cermachromed, it's fascinating to see as the finish flashes from a dry looking powder to a shiny smooth glossy shine. Personally I wouldn't have a trial bike chromed, it means it needs to be kept polished to look good. Also if it wasn't chrome to begin with there's a sort of cheapness to it that might put future buyers off. I had my last txt pro powder coated in its original black and it looks great, it also looks standard but in really good condition and people WOW at it because it looks much younger then it actually is.

How about cermachrome?

X that by 5 and you'd be able to get Toni bou's bike....

Some fair comments there although not too sure about the comparison between driving to a swimming pool 7 days a week - with all the family that need not attend. If a trials rider was training for the Olympics they would probably also be devoting 7 days a week, plus fuel, plus parts, plus bike insurance, taxes etc etc. I dont mean to bleat on and on but Rowing boats generally have a team of rowers so if they are unable to loan a boat from the club they are in they can spread the cost between the team. As for pushbikes I agree they can also cost many thousands of pounds to purchase, but that is because of the exotic materials they are constructed from to make them strong and light - so light you could strip one down, put it in a large kit bag and practicaly carry it on a plane. Of course im Just guessing here, what do i know about Rowing or cycling?!?! Not to mention tools, fuel and kit that's quite a bit of gear to get overseas for the average individual. I just can't see it happening without some logistical support. Any motorsport in general would be far too technical / complicated to be considered an Olympic sport. Can anyone give me some reasons why it should be an Olympic sport?

No. It's a form of Motorsport. Trialing is a sport which requires great skill, technique, practice and a high level of fitness... ...but then again so does formula 1 racing - but that's not an Olympic sport. Plus the fact that the majority of Olympic sports are accessible to practicly anybody weather you are rich or poor. Trial bikes arnt cheap, you'd need at least two of the same machine to compete with at an Olympic level, plus other expenses like the logistics of ferrying a couple of motorbikes, fuel, oils etc etc. This would sort of narrow down the competition to only those that could afford to do it - in my view that's not what the Olympics are about.

That's nothing to be ashamed about.. Awwwwwwwkwaaaaard! You calming down? You killed his van! Sure as hell can't get any worse! Pmsl!!!! Sorry, it's hard to sympathise When I'm laughing so much. Don't buy a rocking horse chap, with your luck it'll die on you!

Go to a pushbike shop and have a look at some. I did this and found some oval shaped large grips on a folding pushbike, I asked the retailer to get me some and he was happy to oblige.

I'd say anywhere between

Spot on thanks, I'll take a looksy at the motors channel Saturday.