mudyman

Thanks Ross

No I haven´t 😞 I have 2 or 3 bikes that have needed the O-ring changing with regular frequency. Can you get to the one on the other end without splitting the cases?

Hi Guys (+ Gals ), can anyone say if the bikes of this age had mineral oil @ the day and if it is still to recommend. The problem with neu oil types are that they seem to make trouble with seals. especialy the SWM has problems with oil leaks and needs new seals for the kicker and gear shaft at regular intervals.

Thanks for the reply suzuki250 ! That´s a good tip and I had no idea that there was a group on facebook (I have 4 Suzi´s and lots of information etc.) I´m not on facebook as I don´t agree with the thing generally but I can probably get someone to have a look for me 🙂

Hi Teamferret, thanks for the answer 🙂 Steve (Beamish owners club) has the brake lever as a new part but not the rest that I´m looking for.

Hi, just found this old old topic. This very bike is now in my shed 🙂 Runs fine no big rattles and plenty of steam. The Jug with a very big OD piston came in a box with many other parts. Be interesting to hear what the problem with the bike was ? @lee harris

Hi Rhoda, "sorry" didn´t read this until today 😞 I´ll give you a line when the Jumbo clutch cable and badges have arrived Ian

Hi all, can anyone help with some parts needed for a project bike ? Most important is the front part of the exhaust that goes around the frame down tube to the first silencer is missing I also need the rear wheel spindle (and spacer) + a rear brake lever The other missing parts are the complete front end but that´s not the problem for now (got enough front ends from Betor Marzocchi and Montesa to do something with)

Just to finish this thread: I had the coil done from Bradford Ignitions and it needs to have a reading from about 850 Ohms depending on the temp. etc.

has anyone any more pics of the silver engine RL250Y with the yellow and black seat as on the later black engine mods. which followed the RL250A that was in red / black ?

Thanks first for all the information sent. I have been through other listings and it seems that quite a lot of other people have had trouble with coils in the past. I have measured the Ignition coil which is the red wire (brown is earth and a thiner white one seems to go to a sensor) the reading was 0,32 Ohms with the device set on the 200 Ohms skale. Now I have the problem that I have a Parts list and the owners manual but not a workshop manual with the needed ohms readings. Has anyone a list or is it possible to say roughly where it should or should not be ? The cdi unit or the condensor / capacitor in it was I think quite suspect but as said I have a second one and this is the same with both. The spare one came with the bike as the last owner had everything done in an Aprilia workshop and they had changed it a year before he sold it to me. This was also one reason for sale as it ran after this cdi unit being changed in 2017 but after being stored in the winter it didnt start again in 2018 and he ended up breaking the kickstart by trying. I got a new kickstart knuckel from Roberto in Italy and cleaned the coils / rotor etc. and also did away with the origional kill switch in the lighting switch. It then started fine and ran but the tickover was unstable so after trying cleaning the carb I went over to Aspen 2T petrol and an Irridium spark plug. This helped and it ran fine for a year (mid 2018) until now stopping in late 2019.

Hi Ross, I take it the capacitor is in the sealed cdi bit (which in this one also has the HT coil in it) ?

I had a good look around last night and did away with the plug that goes in the cdi unit as when moving it the spark seemed to come stronger than before but this hasn´t proved to be the problem. The crank is fine and the wiring is all ok (took the covering off it from top to bottom). I´ve been messing around cleaning the coils etc. and changing the cdi unit for the spare one as the plug for a new one and again for another new one. Hasn´t really helped much it did start and run but in a very strange way just sort of reving up and then losing the spark and then reving again etc. etc.. Now back in the shop I try turning over every now and again it sometimes has a weak spark and sometimes no spark at all.. This seems to be a bit dpending on if you are kicking over or leaving it to stand for 5 mins also depends on the speed of kicking. Im lost now as Im a points and HT coil guy from the sixties ? Any advice is welcome as parts seem to be very rare to try changing things.

I´ll check that today and want to look at the wiring as it´s 27 years old and a broken wire or cracked insulation on a wire would be quite undersatndable

Hi all, I was out with the Climber a week ago and it ran fine for an hour but then when it was on tick over just stoped and didn´t start again. Back home I have been tracing the problem and have tried or rather changed the carb, plug, plug cap, kill switch, and the black box under the tank. I have now found out that when the plug is out and its turned over there is no spark the most of the time unless you turn the engine over a lot faster then the spark apears again. It´s not possible to kick it over this fast with the plug in and it just fires up very very ocaisionaly for a couple of beats now and again. I´m thinking that it´s in the stator plate or something. has anyone had this problem ???? Cheers Ian