mudyman

Hey Guys any tips what to do with a sticky clutch. It sticks a while from cold but thats not the problem as others do this as well. The problem is that when warmed up after pulling the clutch in it takes about 5 seconds before it disengages. This is also when starting off you have to wait about 5 seconds before engaging 1st. gear. For practice riding its okay but if it was to be used in a trial this would be difficult.

thanks for all the replys and to pschrauber for the info about aspen+ and aspen racing. I went to a shop near by yesterday that sells and supplys garden maschinery. They have aspen 2 and aspen 4 that costs 17 Euros for 5 liters which is cheaper than on ebay (about 28 Euros). aspen 2 is premixed but I haven´t got round to seeing what % it has yet. They told me that in Germany the forestry comission only alows aspen for it´s workers because of the health aspects concerned with modern muck from the filling station. So I´m going to be going over to aspen for the bikes and the garden stuff. Just have to see which aspen is available and payable.

Hi Guys ! Anyone used Alkylat petrol in a fiberglas tank to stop the ethanol eating the resin ?

I have 2 sets of 34 mm Marzocchis fitted to 2 early SWM´s these have both got a crack where the pinching bolt goes through. I´m hoping to get them welded at some time. The later 35 mm forks don´t seem to have this problem and the pinching bolt is much smaller diameter.

Hi all, I need advice about getting shims for the crankshaft on my Gripper 350. The bike had a nasty banging sound when I got it. After opening we found the crankshaft had to much movement (left to right) and the weight has been rubbing on the clutch side cover. We suspected worn mains and I have oppend up to change them. Now having dismateld I have found that one of the shims on the crank is so badly worn that its breaking up. On one side there are 2 shims and on the other there´s just one but I think this may be orig. as they did them individualy as far as I know. Anyone got an idea where I can get replacement shims from ?

Okay got it !! Thanks all

furse: where are you from as I cant find the caswell stuff in Germany or in the UK ? Found a video on youtube that says Caswell is from New York. feetupfun: I´ll be checking that out but I´m sure its going to be ***Fiberglas. The first non fiberglas tanks were I think the 1982 red one´s (I have one presently fitted on my 1981 white wonder which is almost a straight swap.

furse: thanks for the tip and the name of supplier feetupfun: I´m not quite sure what the 1977 one is because its got a metal insert where the cap fits and looking in to it doesn´t really give an indication. I expect it to be fiberglas (as is my 1981 white tank) the strange thing is that the 248 tank is much heavier although it´s completely orig. as is the 348 one. From Italy is because the bike was imported from Italy and I presume it didn´t have an alloy tank because this was the UK spec. only ?

Hi guys, I´m starting doing a 348 using bits from 3 bikes. I have a 348 alloy tank (as in 1976 UK spec.) with a fiberglass cover (MRR) thats leacking on 3 places quite badly. I also have a complete 348 from 1977 tank thats probaly fiberglas (from Italy) the last one is a 248 tank thats almost certainly fiberglass and very heavy compared to the others. My Questions are: can the alloy tank be welded and is it easy (the tank has a lot of dents some of them quite big) is the complete tank from 1977 definatly fiberglas and how can it be sealed against bioethenol in modern petrol (it has no leaks at present but hasn´t had modern petrol). The 248 tank is also in top condition with no leaks and hasn´t had modern petrol till now so it would have to be sealed.

Thanks for the replies, I got a mail from the present owner and hes thinks its a special works one, he also sent me the link to yamahaty.com and under "Genese de la TY" there´s the "Rayer 360" bike shown in about 1972. Under "de vente" theres a list with sales in france and the 350 is listed with 2 sold in 1977, 84 sold in 1978 and 78 sold in 1979 so it must have been about but when very rare. The pic of the barrel shows clearly "351 cc" stamped at the bottom. http://www.ebay.de/itm/Yamaha-TY-350-250-Trial-Twinshock-Vintage-Enduro-Motocross-Gelandesport-Oldtimer-/151049963787?pt=Motorr%C3%A4der&hash=item232b47890b#ht_215wt_958 thats it !

Hi all, I´m not a TY guy (had a used mono in about 1990). Theres a red and white 1977 twin shock TY 350 for sale and I didn´t ever hear of there being a 350 one. The seller says it has registration documents where it says TY250 but he´s got a pic of the barrel that say´s 350 (351 cc exactly). It´s not cheap as he want´s 1250,00 Euros and its a non runner thats been standing outside with rust on the forks etc. etc. Any information about the 350 from 1977 would be interesting !

Hi, can anyone confirm the ignition settings I have found: 2,8 mm before TDC (or 21° ??) points gap 0,45 mm plug gap 0,25 mm If anone has more details I´´ll be glad.

Hi all, I have the following problem. I need 3 x new shocks for 2 x TL320´´s and a 350 Jumbo. I thought they were all 340 mm but Inmotion say they should be 360 mm ? On swm-moto.org data sheet it says 340 mm for all mod. I can remember Martin telling me 340 mm also. I then measured some of my old ones and found that a very early TL320 "Gunaco" I have (which has the old red shocks with the external resevoir on it) are 360 mm. On a 1981 TL320 (which has Marzochi units) they are 340 mm ???

Thanks for the replys and tips, I hope to get back to it on Saturday. I never had a flywheel that was so hard to get off before, usualy they come off after lightly tightening and giving it a tap on the shaft. By the first try after lightly tightening and tapping the shaft again and again it saw the threads on the In motion puller go. The next attempt with a new puller (after the normal try) and after warming the flywheel a bit saw the thread on the bolt go. The next try with again a new puller was where I started getting impatient and the flywheel got a few heavy knocks (I know you shouldn´t get angry) I then gave up for the day and got hold of an impact gun with 600 nm and big compressor. At last it came off. When I think of it I had trouble getting the nut off so probably it had been overtightend by the last owner.

with the low tension wire disconnected at the HT coil and rubbing it on the frame it should give a blue spark where it touches the frame (when cranking the engine).

Thanks Guys I´m already getting things together to make a puller job as Woody has. The bearing puller Idea I´ll be looking in to as well.

Hi all has any one heard of the magnets in the flywheel being affected "changing the polarity" after getting knocked about ? I read that somewhere and had a very tight flywheel that got some knocks when getting it off. Now with new points and condenser theres no LT spark. The wirering is okay no short to earth etc. ? There was a LT spark before but weak and no HT spark then either.

Thanks Woody I have been thinking about this sort of device as well. I wanted to try a big Flare block but the biggest I could find was 22 mm which doesn´t quite fit. The Idea with a big washer is a good one and worth following. Did you have a thread protector on the end of the shaft as explained in the Manual ? PS: Pulling the drive cog off the shaft of my 349 Monty it came off with a really big bang and went to the other side of the room. Lucky that it didn´t hit me or the window !

Hi Ross Hi Rob Hallo Ducman I have 2 Jumbo tanks without badges and Martin M. says he cant help. If any are getting done let me know.

Hi I live in Germany and nothing against Mr. Hallat (I buy bits from him) but as it takes months to get any parts from him (it took over 3 months and ***mails etc. before I got the price) I´m now looking for another dealer. Rotax in Belgium has been recomeded to me (www.rotaxsales.be) .

Hi Guys I need to get the sleeve off the crank (clutch side) on my 350 Gripper. There´s a Puller "Ossa special tool" to do this, has any one seen one of these for sale or know where you can get them ? If no longer available does anyonee have experience with getting the sleeve off with other methods (theres no room to get a puller between the main bearing seal and the sleeve) ?

Hi all in the SWM Data list at swm-moto.org the Jumbo 350 carb is listed as having a needle SX200. After asking at Dellorto there isn´t a needle SX200 listed. Can someone say what the right needle is ?

Hi Ross, Mike and all If any one gets some Jumbo badges made please let me know as I´ve got a Jumbo with no badges and i´m getting a 2nd tank from Italy which may also need badges. Ian

Hey all I have red-white and yellow one´s. The red/white ones are good to ride but i find the later with Betor forks better. One good thing by the red/white ones is that the kick starter hits the frame and not the clutch casing. I live in Germany and can confirme that there are lots for sale in Italy (I´ve got one coming from there in about 6 weeks)

@ b40rt Hi Ross no need for me to change the squish (or combustion area) Yes the "In box" was full, its now almost empty