ham2

All I can say is that's what worked for me. As you hinted in your first post it's a pain in the t1t5 when you have to strip-alter-assemble-try for 3or 4 times . Which is exactly what I did...17 mm,18mm,19mm,20mm..it didn't seem to effect the running of bike at all..but it still leaked until I altered the little tangs.??!!

Zippy, This is one of those procedures that is easy to show but complicated to describe. I had the problem once but I can't remember which bike I had at the time (I 'll come to that remedy later). When you've got the carb' upside down the brass? legs should be damn near horizontal anyway 'cos of gravity(don't push to seat the fuel valve). The gap between the o-ring seating face and the height of the brass legs is where you're measuring. Here's what happened to me: The fuel-flow needle has a spring in it which pushed the tapered seat out too far and cocked it over in the bore (hence the perma-leak). I bent the short tangs (part of the brass legs) so the fuel-valve couldn't move to such an extreme limit and couldn't jam. If you're still stuck I'll try to post some photos. Wayne

Some people are not so sad that he has passed on............ADULTS ONLY>>.Paper talk??

Regardless of the cosmetic ''condition'' of this 315 I don't think it's a 2000 model. It should have the multi-coloured Showa forks,different engine paintwork and different brakes..............e.g....315r 2000 CAVEAT EMPTOR !

Hose them down when I do the bike,let them dry in the garage then every third or fourth outing rub them with supermarket own brand(cheeeeaaap!) neutral shoe polish. I don't use anything in aerosol form (WD40,furniture polish etc..) as it seems to rot the stitching.

Let's test this new system.... The above Turing quote was when he announced his new high speed 20Hp mechanised d1ld0...

Can't help with the plugs but the lubed main bearings you are describing are found in a GasGas Pro model. My mates have used ATF in their Pro's with no problems.

Yup, I used to have one of those Black and Decker Workmate jobbies for bike work...wish I'd repaired it instead of chucking it ..ooh my back!

I reckon the 'acid' you're asking about is caustic soda. I guess the reason you've had no replies is that it is very hard to recommend using this stuff as it is a health and safety nightmare. If you can find it..watch out it's nasty.

From work, it takes 5 secs for the front page to complete then 3 for the forums (today, Sunday A.M.). That's using virgin 2.2 Meg which according to the Atom test is only 1003 kbps ! Like Atom says there are other factors to consider. (For the record I am barely computer-capable.) If it's any relevance, I was getting a little impatient last month with the site( I am addicted) so I bought some more RAM for the PC and that's made a hell of a difference at my end.

I do hope that's a fake photo

I remember the article as I added a comment along the line of '''it's not the only one I know of...''

Acetone?? That's a surface tension reducer?Yes? I've looked into this before. I've used it in my car before and It seemed to give a little more MPG, never noticed any performance enhancement though. In your bike,you would have it sitting in the tank for days or weeks absorbing moisture?..no thank you. I wouldn't even add it to my bike if I used my bike every day .

Zip-ties have saved me buying many a rear mud-guard on the different bikes I've had in the past. Leave the front (vertical) bolt in place and remove the rear (horizontal) 2 bolts. Remove the captive-nuts from the back of the airbox. Thread one cable tie(english version) through the guard and airbox hole and tighten..repeat for the other side. Check that the mud-guard still keeps the crap out of the airbox and.. voila.........The idea is that the ties snap in an emergency and not the plastic mud-guard (hopefully the guard just lifts a little and pivots on the front bolt). I keep a selection of spare cable ties slotted into my bar-pad cover. This procedure is not a guarantee of any sort, but like I say, I use it and it's worked for me. It works for daft little flips but it can't help with the high speed ,cartwheel, get-offs that the experts have. P.S> I remember that the unpainted 97black/98 red rear mud-guards were the cheapest. Wayne

Mine said:- ''We riked you Chinee waiter imitation. Hope you riked the speciar soup we fix foh you.''

I think Mr Vitty was taking the peepee

AAH,I see..Cheers, Wayne

Hey jimmyl, Could you expand on this comment please,I'm bemused? I know you don't mean take a dab.

I thought Cobos had quit as he had a very bad knee problem?

Sorry I can't be any help with the brake but I couldn't help noticing that rear tyre either..Must be some rider that can get that bike to go forward.

That's the one..cheers..even better video quality than I remember.

At the risk of sounding like a smart ar5e..they've been posted on here before but I don't need an excuse to watch Bou at play. More please. I'm frightened I may miss something. As I've stated before..never mind the world rounds ,I would pay to watch the top guys just goofing around. On the same note--I know that it's been posted previously but I can't find the link to the video of the Hrc team at play,it may be called Bou or Fuji? Airbus?? Anybody?

Yes, reminds me of when we used catch sticklebacks by hand in our local pond??!!!?? Yup,everythings bigger in America.

Hmm..I've been struggling with the correct foot position for sometime now,when i panic I keep moving back onto the ''balls''(ooh err!)or worse..toes.. to maintain balance. This error has to be pointed out to me about a hundred times a session. Many times I thought I was loading the pegs but all I was doing was flexing my calves instead. My balance goes to pot when I put my arches on the pegs but that is the superior position for tyre grip,covering the back-brake and loading the rear suspension. When my arches are on the pegs I feel as if I am trapped on the bike and won't be able to bale-out in an emergency(Chicken 5h1t???). Wayne

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