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I've got a JBR nitro 22 yr/model and it doesn't have a battery (was like it when I bought it) but starts fine 3 or 4 kicks from cold/unused for a couple of weeks or so and 1 or 2 kicks when hot. So far 100% reliable in 8 months of ownership 🤞
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I had a 2011 swb caddy for a couple of years. Had to take the plastic bulkhead out on the near side (just unbolts) and then I could get two bikes in plus riding kit. Front wheel of bike on the left-hand side goes into the side door area where the bulkhead came out and then second bike in backwards on the right-hand side.
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https://www.msminsurance.co.uk/personal-insurance/motor/motorcycle-trials-enduro
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Might be as simple as the spark plug!
I had similar issue a few yrs ago and all it turned out to be was the plug. Fitted new and carried a spare after that event.
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Front is 125mm diameter. I think rear is the same?
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Easy route, beginner would be my advice. Get the hang of riding the Bultaco in competitions on the easy route and down to 20 dabs or less before trying anything harder otherwise you will go off the whole idea. Riding an enduro doesn't automatically mean that you will find riding a trial easy. Once you get into it though it becomes addictive fun👍
Good luck
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I'd just ride it as it is and find out what doesn't work and fix as you go. If you've never ridden trial before then leave the existing mudguard as likely to snap a brand new one 🙂
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...or in Emma's case - no balls but incredible levels of skill, courage and tenacity.
Voted!
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Hi nzwillie
When I first got my Vertigo I too found starting a little difficult. I have an early 17 model 250 that has been converted to battery-less ignition by a local Vertigo dealer and now find that after priming the kick start to the top of compression stroke it will start from cold with 3 -5 strong kicks and little or no throttle. When hot usually starts 1 -3 kicks with 1/4 - 1/3 throttle which as soon as it catches I normally initially rev it a little to be sure its running.
I found a new plug with a correctly set gap helped a little as does running 200:1 or 25ml per 5 litres as recommended. I'm sure that when I first got the bike I had some fuel mixed with a higher oil content and it didn't start as easily.
Hope this helps in some way, as you say awesome bikes.
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I have one on mine and it is pretty robust (I fall off a lot), strong enough to sit on, easy to remove - two screws at the rear sides and one bolt through at the front, undo the petrol tank cap and lift it off leaving the tank, air box etc all in place.
The only mods I'd suggest is lowering the front of the air box and possibly drilling some air holes in both sides of the shelter to improve air flow and heat dissipation as it sits snuggly down on the frame tubes and is fairly tight to the air box top.
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How easy is it to start?
approximate order of expense will be:
Any piston/bore rattles
Crank/main bearing noise
gear selection issues
Shock linkage play/movement
Wheel bearing play
Steering bearing play
brakes& clutch hydraulics
leaking fork seals
easy stuff to change are chain sprockets and tyres but still costly.
Plenty of info under the Sherco forum on this excellent site!
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... just to add that an 80cc Beta in the right hands will get up and over all that your son is likely to need to ride over in any club trial at youth level until he is about 13 or 14 years old. They have a 6 speed gear box and are really low geared.
Not sure if you know this already but to enter most club events you will need to join a local club who issues you with unique numbers which you can then use to become ACU licensed and with youth riders it takes a little longer to process as you have to download and return parental consent forms to the ACU.
I have ridden with my lad for the last 6 years and it was a real challenge to start with but he is really riding well now and moving up to the hard route ...I'm still cr@p but love it.
If your son is keen then I'd say enjoy every minute of it as they soon grow up and beat you! :-)
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I'd look for a Beta Evo 80 and if your son is tall for a ten year old try a full sized big wheel version.
Check that it starts easily, and if it is a used one check the rear mudguard isn't cracked and wheel bearings, fork seals and brakes are o.k.
My son had one from 10 and rode in competitions for three years on it without any mechanical issues only broken rear mudguards!
Make sure it has a working lanyard cut-out if entering any competitions.
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Hi
This Sunday Nene Valley MCC from Northamptonshire are have their final round this year at a venue not too far from Buckinghamshire at Long Furlong Farm, Catesby, Northants. NN11 6LW which is towards Rugby. Starts at 10.30, finishes at about 2pm. Why not pop along if you are free. It's a great venue. You will find most people taking part are very friendly and willing to help/give guidance if required.
http://www.trialscentral.com/news-archive/uk-trials-news/17657-nene-valley-mcc-the-janet-jones-trophy-trial-south-midland-centre-championship-round
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Hi Dingle
Glad to hear you are adding more bikes to your fleet, a man can never have too many bikes!
Great age for your son to start riding, what could be better than you both taking part, he will soon progress and beat you
This Sunday Nene Valley Trials club are have their final round this year at a venue not too far from Warwickshire at Long Furlong Farm, Catesby, Northants. NN11 6LW which is near Rugby. Starts at 10.30, finishes at about 2pm. Why not pop along if you are free. It's a great venue.
You will find most people taking part are very friendly and willing to help/give guidance if required.
http://www.trialscentral.com/news-archive/uk-trials-news/17657-nene-valley-mcc-the-janet-jones-trophy-trial-south-midland-centre-championship-round
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I believe they are 360mm between fixings.
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...condition of Carb intake rubbers between airbox and carb and carb to engine
If HT coil has been replaced with modern CDi type
That the correct top yoke is still fitted
Search the internet on 200's with rear kick and 200/240 forward kick bikes - a French site is very good just use Google translate.
http://www.fanticmotor.asso.fr/r02.htm
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TX250 is a 125cc, FM350 is a 200cc and a FM450 is a 240 - actually only 212cc.
Tons of Fantic info here on TrialsCentral.
Also this site gives model info
http://www.tytrials.wanadoo.co.uk/Fantic/Fantic%20Models.htm
Two French sites;
this one is in Engish
http://fantic240pro.pagesperso-orange.fr/ukindex.htm
and this one you may need to translate via google
http://www.fanticmotor.asso.fr/r02.htm
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Hi
Try popping down to the next Pegasus trial on this coming Sunday 8th March, not too far from Newark!
http://www.trialscentral.com/events-calendar/eventdetail/3316/-/pegasus-mc-lcc-directors-shield-trial
Friendly bunch, just ask anyone questions you may have.
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They are just stamped into the head stock and on a raised plate type area on the engine.
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Right hand side of headstock at 90 deg to straight ahead. Engine number on rear of engine in front of rear shock. I believe they should match. Sorry no photo available.
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It is at Cranford Firs, not Glendon. The Club website is up to date on events/venues. Also in TMX News.
http://nvmcc.co.uk/?page_id=792
http://nvmcc.co.uk/?p=805
Cheers
GB
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Same has happened to our evo and some of the other threads/fixings are also poor - not good design imo. The alloy is too soft for steel bolts. The fixings on our Sherco are much better.
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The frame chassis number will tell you all
e.g. in the UK the 6th & 7th digits of the frame number indicate the model i.e. 29 being a 290, then there are two letters followed by the 10th digit being the year
6 being a 2006, 7 a 2007, 8 a 2008 and 9 being a 2009.
In late 2009 Shercos changed to the rear tank models.
Prior to 2006 the frames were chrome.
Loads of great info on this site - mostly posted by Copemech! Cheers Copey
Aslo well worth going to Splatshop http://www.splatshop...erco/frame.html
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Hi
Just before Christmas I sent my Sherco cylinder to Langcourts for replating and had it back in 6 days! Very good service - make sure you send either your current piston if not worn or the new piston size i.e. A, B etc with the cylinder.
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