gig755

I see that there is one for sale on ebay in the United States right now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-1970-SARACEN-125-TRIALS-/121753814291?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1c5917c513&item=121753814291

Too nice to ride?... ...No Way!!! This is my wife riding the bike to a first place finish in the Novice class at AMA Vintage Days.

I've seen this bike in person, and it's a very trick TY. It sounds really good, and has a lot of handmade parts. He even completely handmade the pipe and silencer! Shercosteve is not only a great fabricator, but he's also a heck of a rider, and he took 1st place on this bike at our last event.

I couldn't find a heat shield when I was building my bike, so I made my own, It was very time consuming, so if you can find one already made up, I would definitely recommend it. Regards, Gary

I didn't actually compare the two, but I doubt if it were very much if any at all.

I had a used '91 WR200 kickstarter that I adapted to my TY175. The lower half is the original TY, and the upper half is from the WR200. The detent ball and spring was in a different location on the WR kicker than on the TY kicker, so to get it to work, I had to drill another pocket in the TY lower half for the ball to detent in to. I have a B&J Racing electronic ignition on it, and it starts really easy, so the shorter kicker is no problem. I still have to lift the footpeg up to get it to kick all the way through. Since it is shorter, it's less likely to bend like the original one did. Gary

guy53, Thanks for the complement. The part number I used is RD-0450, but it was too tall. I had to cut off the lower end cap, cut 25mm off of the filter, and then reglue the end cap back on. When I decided to make this airbox, I went to my local bike shop and they had this one in stock, so I built the airbox around it. There may be a filter available that may be a better fit, but I didn't have a problem modifying this one so that's what I did. Gary

Per recommendations from Bob at B&J Racing, I made my own fiberglass airbox so that I could use a K&N air filter. I have a 24mm Oko carb, and the throttle response is absolutely perfect! I'm still using the stock Yamaha boot between the carb and airbox. The round hole on the left side is so that I can get to the hose clamp. The reason for the angle that is cut on the left side is so that I could get the side panel to fit. Since the side panel covers that whole side of the airbox, I don't have to worry about water getting splashed in. This was my first ever attempt at making an airbox from scratch, and I know that it looks ugly, but it works. Gary

Wow, another great looking bike that you've built!!! BTW...the Penton Wassell with the 152 kit that you built just won another Championship at Mid Ohio, and the Penton 125 with the downpipe and aluminum tank that you have is also very cool.

I was hoping that you and LM would be at Mid Ohio this year so that you could take it for a test ride! My next project is to build a couple of 250's, one for me, and another one for a friend. I know what my friend wants his bike to look like and I have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to do to trick it out, but still thinking about what I want to do to mine. Maybe do a sister bike to my 175?

It rides really nice. The shocks are Magicals, and when I ordered them, I gave Craig all of the shock mounting point measurements, and he built the shocks from there.

I don't think I be able to ride any of those dates, but I would like to ride the event on Oct. 13/14 at Wildwood Lake. It's close to my home, and I'm friends with the property owner. I had to do a couple of minor jetting changes to the 24mm Oko carb, but other than that, it carburets absolutely perfectly.

Thanks for the advice. I have already ridden 1 event on it, and have ridden it around on the trials obstacles I have in my backyard a few times, but have not had any issues...yet. I will definitely keep an eye out for cracks.

These are before and after photos of the same bike. I extended the swingarm by 50mm. The manifold is from a Yamaha RD350. The bolt hole pattern is the same, but the RD manifold has a couple of "ears" that have to be trimmed off before it will bolt up against the TY reed cage. Gary

Thanks everyone for the compliments on my new ride. The tank is actually from a '74 Honda XL70 (I hope that Gremlins don't get me for putting Honda parts on my Yamaha). I had to move both the front and rear mounts on the frame to get it to fit. I really like the looks of it, so it was worth the extra work. The bike has a B&J Racing electronic ignition on it, and it starts really easy, so the shorter kicker is no problem. I still have to lift the footpeg up to get it to kick all the way through. Since it's shorter, it's less likely to bend like the original one did. The lower half is the original TY, and the upper half is from a '91 Yamaha WR200. The detent ball and spring was in a different location on the WR kicker than on the TY kicker, so to get it to work, I had to drill another pocket in the TY lower half for the ball to detent in to. Gary

Hello, I bought this bike about a year ago to ride in Trials competition. Instead of just restoring it back to original condition, I wanted something that looked a little different, and this is my end result. I haven't touched the wheels yet, but I think I'm going to polish the hubs, anodize the rims black, and lace them up with stainless spokes and nipples. Gary Additional photos can be found here: http://www.trialscen...um/71-76-ty175/