oceanvibe

Your HT lead is goosed, replace it and it will run a lot better along with you not getting zapped !

Great weekend and as usual a top notch trial even though I managed to get the highest score of the weekend ! Good mix of sections. Many thanks to all involved, Tommy, Malcolm, Alex, Dave and John and all the observers. If you missed it look out for it next year and enter, you will love it.

I am working my new bike, a 73 alpina with sherpa T conversion and have no clue as to what type of oil to use and how much, also what is everyone putiing in the forks for future ref. Thanks for any advise

Hi Nigel, Thanks for that, will get to it start of week.

No need to worry, I got the bike stripped and the shaft out and it is shot, just as I thought. Very easy to get into and quite simple layout. No the next question is where is the best place to find a replacement one. Any help on that would be great.

If it were me I would helli coil them. You drill out to suit the next thread size then insert the helli coils and you are left with a new thread that is the same size as original

Never worked on one of these bikes before and I need to take out the kickstart shaft to see what is wrong with it. Are there any pit falls when stripping it or tips on how to go about it. Will I be able to get it out by just removing the casings or do I have to split the motor ! Thought it might be an idea to ask before getting the tools out. Any info would be great.

Hi Brian, Ye I have the 750 piston in it. Got the spark sorted out too. I change the points and hey presto, crackin spark. Just need to sort out the carb and I should be good to go. Got a trial in 2 weeks so will be interesting to see the difference with the 150.

Hi Brian They both have 2 screws holding the float bowl, one either side in the middle. They both look the same but the 04B has a breather on the side next to the fuel intake the other has it blanked off. They both came from stock motors but one is going on my 150 big bore.

I got 2 carbs with my TL 125 that I'm building but not sure which one is right, if any. The one on the bike is an 04A and the one in the box of bits is an 04B. The bike is a K model. What's the differance between them and should it matter as long as the are jetted right.

Hi Brian, Thanks for the tips, changed the primary and ignition coil and got a better spark but have seen better. It is a blueish color spark, normal I think. Bike still won't start but I might have the inlet valve to tight so will open it up a bit. 150 kit, yeh CB750 piston with the Miller thick gasket. Hoping to get at least a splutter tonight when I check the settings of every thing. Will let you know. Cheers

Just finished building a big bore TL. When I bought the bike the oil pump was shot so I never had the original motor running so can't say the state of play before the rebuild as a 150. It has a very weak spark so won't start, used several plugs but all weak spark. I am going to swap the ignition coil from my other TL which runs great but if still weak can I test the primary coil while it is still in the bike or have I got to strip it out and take it to some one for testing. If it is testable in the bike how with basic kit. Also as I have got a 150 does the carb need re-jetting or other settings changedfrom standard 125 form. Any help would be great. Cheers

I know that this reply is a bit late maybe but I am in the middle of a rebuild. The clearence on the rod is between the crank halves and it is 4 thou but is still in servicable condition up to 20 thou so your 7 thou is very good. Mine is about 8 thou so more than happy. Just hope I've got all the bits of the oil pump out of the bearing after it went into a million bits and spread itself throughout the bottom end ! Deep joy Oh well I had nothing better to do with my summer nights than spend them in the workshop.

The Inverness club once again put on a crackin trial at Alvie at the weekend. Well laid out and sections suitable for the pre65's and a seperate route for twin shocks. Well done to all. So to all of you out there with old bikes, get themout of the shed and get there next year, well worth the trip. I would like to thank those how helped me out of section 2 on Sun after I had a quick exit from the bike and cracked 2 ribs. Managed to finish, just, and was well chuffed to have amounted the highest score !!!!! See you all next year.

Under my thread 'TL125 help please' someone talks about it and uses an XL, anyway I thought about it and that was as far as I got, just happy the old thigs goes !!

At last !!!! The old bike is running sweet as a nut. The ignition timing was out by about 3 degrees, I made a Sammy Miller type exhaust out of the old can that was on it with new pipe, put header tape round the pipe as it passes the carb and made a heat sheild that goes round the carb not just in front, change the air screw, dropped the neddle right down and run a D7EA. Thanks for all your input in helping me out qand I know I will be back when the next thing crops up, oh the joys of old bikes.

Well I thought that it was all to good to be true. Any ideas why the bike is eating plugs. Hae gone through 4 plugs in about 3 -4 hrs of run time. As you all know I am running a DR8ES-L, will the resistor cause this, it shouldn't but old bikes are ***** The plugs are still running sooted up even after yee ha at the trial. Strange as the plug ran great all day then just chucked it. Tried a BP5ES to ckeck spark and it was very good. Should I try to get a D7/6ES as the are a bit hotter. Anyway thats all for npw but I'm sure there will be loads mor.

Brian R, No it does not have the stoke exhaust. It came with a bit of a home made thing. The front pipe is standard to just past the back of the engine then there is a can from there about 10" x 3" and that's it. I was not sure if this would alter anything and hoped it wouldn't as it has a sweet tone to it ! Any thoughts on this mod. Changed the condensre tonight and now have a much brighter spark but not run it as it is getting abit late to go bombing about the field so will have a try ma

Well it went well at the trial today, gave it a good thrashing and for the best part it idled although the plug is still sooting up a bit so probably still a bit rich, might try a smaller main jet. Had a great days trilling until I had a big off going up a rock face and smashed the clutch lever bracket off, oh well more things to buy ! Mattylad was the XL ignition an easy conversion and did you get it off the shelf or from a breakers ? 29r whats the best way to check the timing and how do I check the advanced isn't seized ? Many thanks.

Well after I set the valves the bike runs a lot smoother but a bit rattelly (will check the settings again) also dropped the carb needle to the top notch which has really helped. It almost idles now but does not get bogged down. Was trying to geta plug without the R but none of my local dealers have any and only stock the DR8ES-L I believe theL is for a 1/2 heat but which way hotter or colder. Will try again to get a diff. plug but I have just about got it sorted. Tacking it to a trial on Sunday so will post how it goes. Again thanks for all the pointers and keep them coming.

Well yes I have made a *** of myself on the web, (again) after posting the 'leaking seal' I found out it is ment to run wet. Oh well live and learn. Brian, I checked the valves last nite after some brain storming and the exhust valve was cranked right down ! so I am thinking that this might have caused the problem. Reset both to 0.002 and I am heading out the the workshop soon to give it a blast and see. Will let you know. Thanks for the pointers

Thanks for the tips but it still has the original heat sheild on the carb. I had a look a bit deeper into the problem and think I might have found it but please comment on findings. It looks like the crank seal has gone as there is oil all over the flywheel and covering the coils. As the oil heats up it thins allowing it to get throught the seal hence the problem only when hot. I assume that this would cause a bad ciruit resulting in a poor spark which would explain the bike spluttering. With a poor spark the plug would not be firing hot enough to burn the fuel hence the black plug. Does this sound about right and as the coil has been coated in oil should I get a new one or will it be fine once cleaned. All I have to do now is find a new seal !!!

Any ideas as to the cause of the following; Bike runs great when cold, idles just spot on and rides great with smooth power throughout but once it warms up the idle starts to drop off to a point it won't idle even with the screw full in. It will rev up fine but held on a steady rev it is very spluttery and runs a bit rough then when you open it up from there it is bogged down. Any clues ?This is what I've done and the various settings. Main jet 92, pilot jet 35, carb stripped and cleaned several times. Points clean and set at 12, new plug - DR8ES set at 30, got a spark and after the bike has been run and is hot the plug is black but dry. I've also cleaned out the filter and air screw is at 1 1/2 -2 turns out. Point to note is that when I really tighten the carb on the carb slide gets stuck at full open, turn back one of the nuts a half turn it it is fine again!

Thanks for the quick replies heps me out. Cheers

Just got a TL 125, crackin wee bike from 1975. As this is my first 4 stroke twinshock I have a daft (maybe) question. At the time of production there was none of this unleaded fuel, can I use straight unleaded or do I need an additive. Might be being stupid, again, but I always ran 2 strokes which was never an issue. Also I have been offered another engine for the bike (nothing wrong with the one that is in it) but the engine nos. starts with CT 125E. On the outside they look identical, are they? except maybe the gearing. Is the ignition system the same settings etc. and what years is it likely to be. Any help would be great.