guys

Pro's I noticed very well: Makes the rear more responsive when jumping on larger obstacles. I didn't hit the bash plate so much on big pipes and such. And it slightly steepens the steering head angle, making sharp turns, becomes a bit easier. As Oni Nou says, you'll have to buy and try it. They're not that expensive.

Nice! You've really put a lot of work in the jig and other tools. Planning on making a small series perhaps?

Here's a sneak preview: http://www.goedkope-fietsen-online.nl/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/t/i/titan_p128_blauw_1.jpg

Those training wheels are one of the most unnecessary accessories for trials I've seen and seem no longer available, thank god. http://www.difrenos.com/recambios-accesorios-tienda/results,1-60.html

When Bou was already using the Brembo, Fujinami still used (or uses) the Nissin. So I guess the Nissin is pretty good.

Who knows what's going on behind the factory doors. Most of us surely don't.

I think you need someone with the (HRC?) program disc and connections for a laptop to read the maps and settings. I think maybe you're not switching between the two maps of the "twin-map throttle body" with your home made switch. A standard throttle body has two maps, one road legal homologation map, and a full power (without all the restrictors) map that most dealers activate at purchase. I have had such a home made switch on my standard throttle body, and the difference is indeed hard to notice at normal use. I suspect the "twin-map throttle body" has two, more different maps. And maybe they can only be activated by the original twin-map throttle body switch. Have you compared the working of the two switches? Are they connected in the same way? Does the original switch contain any additional electronics maybe?

Build Quality is without a doubt better than most. But if you're looking for a perfect bike that's 100% rock/offroad proof, good luck.

Jonny's right, It's a DB killer but it's just like a spark arrestor, it's got two mesh screens.

I can't say I notice any power drop because of it. But as an intermediate rider I don't use full power a lot. It does take the bark out of the exhaust note, makes it sound a little bit softer.

I think I saved about 1,5 kg on that 4RT. It, as you can see in the picture, had some carbon parts on it and an aluminium fuel tank bottom also. On the last 4RT Repsol I had I made the electra support out of aluminium. But weight saving on aluminium parts, like the rear wheel, is minimal. Did the calculation out of curiosity, but forgot it. But every little bit counts. And tinkering keeps people of the cocaine, I'm the living proof of that.

Keep having fun with the rebuild. Did the same thing to the rear wheel of my previous 4RT. (this time I took the easy way out and ordered a 300 RR)

Booked a hotel in Portsmouth and reserved a spot on the Eurotunnel train.... which is nice.

I suppose you mean the 315R from Widrace. Apparently both have disappeared, this is what his profile says: "Last Active Dec 20 2013 05:08 PM"

Ode to Repsol

A NGK CR5EH-9 spark plug for temperatures below 10°C might also help.

Be careful using talcum powder, only sparsely on the inner tube when absolutely necessary, it makes rubber very very slippery.

Great tip. Thanks. I've got to be in Salisbury to pick up my petrol tank

Thanks for the tips guys. Brooklands was already in the back of my head, and one of the harbours also, Portsmouth seems also very interesting. But it's nice to get some confirmation. Thanks. Been already to the Beaulieu Motor Museum in 2000, but might be worth a visit again.

I thought they looked more like regular plate screws than anything else, but wasn't sure seeing it only in a picture. Here's something else to pass the time: (And I can understand the confusion, but that's not me, it's Toni Bou.)

Haven't heard of only the inner tube creeping round. Strange. Nonetheless, new tyres might still have a little silicone on them, when they come out the mould. That would explain why it stops creeping after a while, the silicone has dried out. Degreasing the contact areas of new tyres might help. But because the above didn't prevent the tyre creeping on my Bultaco, I've ordered these all aluminium tyre locks. Haven't had a chance to test them though.

Damn... touché

I've got both gaernes and Alpinestars and indeed, it takes some getting used to the higher stance of the Alpinestars, especially when they're new. I think that's one of the reasons, the top guys have different soles on their Alpinestars, especially those of Bou looked exactly like soft gaerne soles . It's a always compromise between durability and flexibility.

Been there a couple of years ago on a motorcycle trip, was well worth the journey, despite the strange funny people