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guys

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Posts posted by guys
 
 
  1. Pro's I noticed very well:

    Makes the rear more responsive when jumping on larger obstacles. I didn't hit the bash plate so much on big pipes and such.

    And it slightly steepens the steering head angle, making sharp turns, becomes a bit easier.

     

    As Oni Nou says, you'll have to buy and try it. They're not that expensive.

    • Like 3
  2. I think you need someone with the (HRC?) program disc and connections for a laptop to read the maps and settings.

     

     

    I think maybe you're not switching between the two maps of the "twin-map throttle body" with your home made switch.

     

    A standard throttle body has two maps, one road legal homologation map, and a full power (without all the restrictors) map that most dealers activate at purchase.

     

    I have had such a home made switch on my standard throttle body, and the difference is indeed hard to notice at normal use.

     

    I suspect the "twin-map throttle body" has two, more different maps. And maybe they can only be activated by the original twin-map throttle body switch.

     

    Have you compared the working of the two switches? Are they connected in the same way? Does the original switch contain any additional electronics maybe?

  3. I think I saved about 1,5 kg on that 4RT.

     

    It, as you can see in the picture, had some carbon parts on it and an aluminium fuel tank bottom also.

    On the last 4RT Repsol I had I made the electra support out of aluminium.

     

    But weight saving on aluminium parts, like the rear wheel, is minimal. Did the calculation out of curiosity, but forgot it.

     

    But every little bit counts. And tinkering keeps people of the cocaine, I'm the living proof of that.  :stoned:

     

    post-15723-0-88823200-1453228983_thumb.jpg

     

    post-15723-0-44609200-1453229013_thumb.jpg

     

    post-15723-0-92528400-1453229043_thumb.jpg

     

    post-15723-0-81482900-1453229069_thumb.jpg

  4. Is it a one off event or does the tube creep every time you reset it?

     

    If it's a one off i.e. you've fitted a new tyre or tube and after riding you've noticed the inner tube has crept, I'd guess that when it's been fitted the tube has more stretch on one side of the valve than the other and once ridden the tube is just finding it's natural position, this usually happens because when fitting, the valve is inserted into rim, then the tube is fed into tyre and on to the rim by working in one direction only, instead of working equally in both directions away from the valve.

     

    Could well be, didn't think of that.

     

     

     

    Is there not a locking nut on the valve stem (some old boys leave these off to prevent the valve being ripped out should the tyre move on the rim)

     

    I never use the locking nut, this way you can also see earlier if the tube is creeping.

  5. Thanks for the tips guys.

     

    Brooklands was already in the back of my head, and one of the harbours also, Portsmouth seems also very interesting.

    But it's nice to get some confirmation. Thanks.

     

    Been already to the Beaulieu Motor Museum in 2000, but might be worth a visit again.

  6. Haven't heard of only the inner tube creeping round. Strange.
     
    Nonetheless, new tyres might still have a little silicone on them, when they come out the mould. 
    That would explain why it stops creeping after a while, the silicone has dried out.
    Degreasing the contact areas of new tyres might help.
     
    But because the above didn't prevent the tyre creeping on my Bultaco, I've ordered these all aluminium tyre locks.
    Haven't had a chance to test them though.

     

    DSC_0009-600x600.jpg

  7. I've got both gaernes and Alpinestars and indeed, it takes some getting used to the higher stance of the Alpinestars, especially when they're new.

     

    I think that's one of the reasons, the top guys have different soles on their Alpinestars, especially those of Bou looked exactly like soft gaerne soles

    .

    It's a always compromise between durability and flexibility.

 
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