guys

Im sorry, that's all the info I've got. I Googled DP by BDI but didn't get much, you'll have to send Ben Hanson a message on Facebook I think.

You'll have to copy and paste it, I don't think Trials Central allows direct links to facebook, sorry.

GasGas is in other hands now, so you don't know if that's a good or bad thing.

New diaphragm clutch for Beta from DP by BDI promises "Super smooth action!" (although the price might be a bit rough) https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1693029687648379&set=a.1500864116864938.1073741828.100008240916523&type=3&theater

Although I thought that the free spinning gear on the layshaft had too much play, it wasn't as bad as I thought. Thanks to InMotion I got a brand new, about 40 year old shaft and gear. Thanks to a manual, and the simple lay out of the Bultaco engine, the rebuild is coming along nicely. Crank and cylinder are expected back from the shop any day now... Home made engine support:

Great riding area!

Last year Dougie Lampkins studded tyres were on sale on Facebook. Bummer

I, and I suspect most 4RT owners have done it always as the manual prescribes, without any problems: Start the engine and let it idle for a 3 minutes. Stop the engine and wait 3 minutes. Support the motorcycle upright on a level surface. Remove the oil filler cap/dipstick on left crankcase and wipe the oil with a clean cloth. Insert the dipstick without screwing it in, remove it and check the oil level. Going by the volume (440cc) is inaccurate because you don't know how much oil is left in the engine after draining.

For my black Alpinestars I use shoe polish and now and again leather grease or wax. And for my oiled Gearnes (horse saddle) beeswax oil. I only treat my boots after about every 5th cleaning (with water and car shampoo)

Did you do the oil change yourself? Did you let the engine run for 3 min. and then rest for 3 min. after the oil change to check the oil level? (I know this should be obvious but you never know If engine oil somehow gets in the gearbox, which would surprise me, I suspect it's via seal n° 31 (sits between the crank case and the primary drive / gear box) You can find parts list here: http://montesa4rt.nl/

I'm still in awe at the skill these guys have, but all the videos are the same these days, always a guy hopping from one rock to another on his rear wheel. I would like to see them do some steep ( muddy) hills for instance.

I used silver car wheel spray paint (should be a bit stronger than regular spray paint) and haven't had complaints about the colour

This girl can play the guitar

Just copy the address of the page and paste it directly in the reply. Like this:

The Nissin master cylinder made a noticeable difference on my 2008 4RT but haven't had the chance to test it on my 2015 Repsol because I already sold it. That said, the one piece caliper brake on the 2015 Repsol is already a great improvement compared to previous models. Please note that the 1 piece caliper of the 2015 Repsol has a 8 mm banjo bolt as opposed to the 10 mm banjo bolts on previous models, so you need a specific brake line. (H&D Racing sells them)

Aywaille one of the best classic trials in the Benelux if you ask me. http://www.trialclassic.org/cal/getFiche.php?trial=151

I'm expecting mine in january

Put some neoprene fork boots on your forks and you'll never have to clean the seals + your fork oil doesn't get contaminated by the dirt that passes the seals.

Wow! You can change the weather just by flipping a switch!

Now isn't that lovely, they stamped a little hart in the case. Cylinder and head ready for painting, which in the meantime has been done. The cylinder is at the shop for a re bore and the crank shaft for a new con rod.

Thanks Bondy, good tip.

This firm in Belgium can make anything you want. I gave a drawing from the rear sprocket from my Montesa 315R to an MX dealer and he passed it on to Kit Cross, and they made one for me for the normal price of a rear sprocket. http://www.kitcross.com/fr/kit-cross.php

The engine cases are split and all in all it doesn't look to bad for a 40 year old bike One crank and one gearbox bearing is damaged/worn. Santa came early this year Home made case splitter (had to insert a V-coil because one of the case threads was damaged) Used a paint stripper hot air gun to heat up the case, which worked very well. Some damage by the kick start mechanism The middle gear on the left axle seems to have to much play. And this is how bad bearings sound like

Hi Sherpa, I've got the modern type seals from All Balls type 56-143 (for KTM SX 65 '02 - '11 and XC 65 '08 - '09)