guys

If it's fitted with the Formula brake and clutch levers, make sure they work as they should ( i.e. the pistons don't stick or leak) A little rattle from the engine is normal as long as it stops when the clutch is pulled. Check that the bearings in the steering head rotate nicely, without play and any roughness or "locking" in the middle position. The same (except the "locking" in the middle position) goes for all other bearings: wheels, swing arm and dog bones in the swing arm, although a little up and down play on the swing arm is normal Check the frame for (hair) cracks, especially around the head stock, swingarm and engine mount area.

Don't thank me, thank TrialsportVideo who uploaded the video on YouTube

Maybe the clutch slave piston is stuck or the clutch master piston has to little or no play.

+1 And the choice is huge: From warm windstopper gloves to extremely ventilated ones and almost always with good grip and flexibility

Here's a tip: I upgraded to an electronic ignition but when I came to start the bike... Nothing! Tried over and over again, nothing. Complained to the shop where I got the ignition from, their answer: We've sold hundreds with no problem whatsoever... Damn. Then, after a long while, it came to me, the clutch slipped ever so slightly, you'd barely notice it, but it made the engine rotate to slow when kick starting it, there wasn't enough spark to make the engine start. Tightened up the clutch springs with small shims ( mine has the cup and pin, not the adjustable nuts) and hey presto, life came back in the old Spaniard Oh well, no harm no foul

I've got a 1975 Sherpa 350 (type 159) and love it: more than enough power, very stable on loose rocks and stuff and parts are easy to find. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/gallery/album/158-bultaco-rebuild/

I've scraped my knuckles a few times on trees so I prefer MX gloves with extra protection:

The bridge is more than full apparently, it's forbidden to add any more, otherwise they fear the bridge might collapse

(This weekend 23 & 24 - 8 - 2014 European Championship also in Bilstain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-Qaj1lmHWE#t=48

Again something to look forward to

Now if the standard 4RT looked like this one, I might not have ordered a Race Replica

Sounds familiar to me :-)

No, the air kept escaping through the hole in the tire and he thought, if only I could find a way to keep the air from escaping my tyre, so he put a lock on it.

Yes, it will work, you might loose or gain a little braking power depending on the piston diameters but I think they are about the same. I've done the other thing, use a AJP master cylinder (from a 4RT) instead of the Formula on my 2012 GasGas, and it worked just fine.

Where's the seat? Well here it is, but usually it's on a shelf in the garage.

My 159 had the o-rings on the seal carriers and the sleeve with o-ring on the shaft at the clutch side.

As well!?

Why are you hiding underground? Are you a spy? Did you commit some horrible crime?

Aluminium castings in those days were not as strong as these days also

Mine's for sale (in Belgium)

Stick to the 280 then, simple

Maybe you can contact Neyraud Jean François: enduro58@orange.fr who organises the Trial 4 Jours de la Creuse. Or catherine.kohen@orange.fr , I think she's the one that answers the mails in english for the 4 day event. They might be able to get you in contact with local trial riders. http://enduro.pagesperso-orange.fr/trial/

Us, not so fortunate guys, have to do with Never-Seez or copper paste to prevent (galvanic) corrosion

Have fun in the woods, but don't make too much noise ;-)

Middle boxes can also be re-packed: Here's one from a Bultaco but it's the same principle. Only needs some new damping wool, some silicone sealant on the mating edges, a couple of rivets and bob's your uncle