guys

When a mates Formula front master brake pump and master clutch pump failed, the GasGas dealer/importer replaced both under warranty. Your dealer was talking b#ll#cks, Montesa has to abide by the same warranty laws AJP has been taken over by BrakTec so any AJP products you may find will be left-over stock. http://braktec.com/en/about-us/

The adventures of the amazing Bou in Japan. In HD! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5gpNhZAQ2A

In this case look at the other engine mounting brackets on the frame and on the engine. But if it's GasGas that's a few years old also check other places on the frame for cracks, especially the welds around the headset and swing arm. If it's got Formula clutch and brake master cylinders be sure they're in perfect working order. And spend some time reading topics on this GasGas forum, you'll learn a lot that way

Could be that there's to much dirt built up around the pistons and their seal in the calliper so the piston doesn't move much anymore. It's also possible that the master cilinder is seized for the same reason. Carefully dismantel and clean all the parts, don't forget the grooves where the seals sit in. Use a rebuild kit when necessary.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/47272-lanyard-kill-switch-good-or-bad/

Thanks pschrauber, I think that's the one. And who would have thought it was written in dutch, my native tongue ?! Nice.

I've never seen a 4RT with a idle speed at 1800 rpm, I have mine set at 1200 rpm. I think with the idle at 1800 rpm, you're always riding with a slipping clutch at very low speeds

As you can see in the picture, there's a small rod with a nut at the rear of the lever. If you loosen the nut you can turn in the rod an that way the lever will go down. Be careful though: if you adjust the lever to low it's possible that the lever will touch the frame so you can't apply full braking power. At least that's the case on my 2012 Racing 280. I also tried to adjust the brake lever on the same level as the footpegs (like on my 4RT), but this wasn't possible. Also be sure to adjust the small bolt and nut in the middle of the lever, so that the lever has a little play before the rod touches the brake master plunjer.

Sorry baldilocks, I wasn't responding on your post, just making a statement in general

Hi everybody! I've just been to an oldtimer meeting ( http://www.elitereklaamrally.be/welkom/ ) with my Sherpa and an guy there told me there's a book called 'Bultaco 350'. I don't know who wrote this novel but I'm curious if any of you guys heard of it and if it's any good.

I don't use ATF, I use GRO Gear Extreme 75W, but if you do, make sure it's the right type ATF, like Dextron III, some others are not suited for trial clutches.

If you follow this advice a lanyard switch is always an advantage, the few times it's a problem, (how many times do you really wave at friends???) amount to nothing. If in doubt, just read the first post in this topic again.

Make sure that's the only thing that's damaged on that bike. They could have been riding a while with that crack before they noticed it, and done more damage.

Or maybe even this one:

I think this would do the job:

Respect jj65.

If anybody has (a link to) more videos of Japan, please share them here

Many short videos of Japan GP by TOPDOGSTEAMITADO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn_uUZnOY5g&list=UUjie84tZS3Ugf8KaGWqHiQw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fo10IpOu4Bc

Here maybe: http://www.allensusedtrialsspares.co.uk/#/bikes-breaking/4560010283

Did you follow the correct starting procedure? 1 - Don't open the throttle when kicking, not even a tiny bit. 2 - When it doesn't start from first or second kick, "reset the throttle/injection" by kicking slowly one or two times with the throttle wide open, then start as in step one.

You would be surprised what crap some people, me included, are willing to take just to ride a bike they think is going to make them competitive, looks cool, is ridden by there favorite rider or is cheap at first sight. I've read it here many times that when a bike is broken, the first people try to do is get it fixed and even don't think about the fact that it could be a warranty issue. A guy at our club had to replace both complete brake master cylinders (formula) when the bike was less than a year old. He got it done under warranty as it should be but not a year later his rear brake master cylinder failed again and who got stuck with the bill do you think? A trial bike dealer I know said that almost every bike (from a well known brand) he took in payment one or two years ago, had cracks in the frame at one or more places. And no they where not all from expert riders who's bike had a hard life. This brand is still as succesfull as ever and never got the bill for their own poor craftsmanship. Just to say that marketing plays a big part in today's economy. You only have to look at the succes of the Apple I-phone when it came out: A 500 euro phone with a battery that lasted only a couple of years at best and that couldn't be replaced: An expensive gadget with a programmed limited life span if you ask me, but when the new model came out, people where lining the streets to get a new one.

Search (right hand top of this page) and you will find your answer

I'm sorry but mickl said 'If a manufacturer makes a bike that involves too many "exotic" components and becomes too expensive, People will not buy it.' and also said 'so no one bought them and they went bankrupt' Montesa/Honda may not sell very much bikes but they do sell some and they're not bankrupt. And as nigel says, sales also depend on the support one gets from the dealer and importer so no it's not as simple as "Performance-Reliability-Cost" It doesn't matter if a trials manufacturer also sells cars an other motorcyles or has to work together with another larger motorcycle company to survive or to lower the costs, as long as I can buy a decent reliable trials bike.

It's a Honda! Support is otiose